You don't think that doing it this way will cause uneven soaking? I mean some pistons are up and some are down. I was thinking that when I do mine next time I do an oil change I will disconnect the fuel pump and start the engine to have it use up all the fuel in the line and then crank over the engine every hour or so for several hours just to have this stuff spread through the entire motion range of the piston as it soaks.
I went to the Fram website to compare different oil filters ( http://www.fram.com/ )
Theses are the specs for the stock P5 filter: Part Number TG6607
Product Type Tough Guard Lube Filter
Anti-Drain Valve YES
Gasket I.D. 2.27"
Gasket O.D. 2.53"
Gasket Thickness .2"
Gasket Usage Base
Product Height 2.63"
Product I.D. 20mm x 1.5mm Th'd
Product O.D. 2.69"
Relief Valve Setting PSI 13
These are the specs for the 2002 Mazda 626 V6 (in 20003 they switched to the Mazda 6, with a different engine and oil filter) : Part Number HM7317
Product Type High Mileage Oil Filter
Anti-Drain Valve YES
Gasket I.D. 2.22"
Gasket O.D. 2.48"
Gasket Thickness .28"
Gasket Usage Base
Product Height 3.47"
Product I.D. 20mm x 1.5mm Th'd
Product O.D. 2.69"
Relief Valve Setting PSI 13
The 1990 Mazda 929 oil filter has these specs: * * Part Number HM3593A
Product Type High Mileage Oil Filter
Anti-Drain Valve YES
Gasket I.D. 2.13"
Gasket O.D. 2.42"
Gasket Thickness .2"
Gasket Usage Base
Product Height 3.39"
Product I.D. 20mm x 1.5mm Th'd
Product O.D. 3.02"
Relief Valve Setting PSI 12
It looks like the 929 filter is the biggest. I don't think the gasket dimensions matter because the mating surface on the engine has quite a bit of room for a different size gasket. The 929 filter is 1/3" "fatter" than our stock or the 626 filter which may be an issue if the filter is stuck upon removal and you need to use a filter wrench on it. The 929 filter has a blow-by rating of 12 PSI as compared to the 13 PSI of the stock filter which is close enough in my opinion.
The 929 filter appears to be a VERY common filter on earlier vehicles so it should be easy to find at a good price.
oh ok. When im ready to do it I will try my method and see if there will be any problems. I wont be doing this till the fall anyway so I will have to wait to find out.I don't think it will soak uneven, as the seafoam settles on top of the piston where ever it is in its stroke. I just thought the sides of the pistons where the rings and oil drain holes are my only concern, not the cylinder walls. That's why I'm not wanting to have the seafoam move around in the piston motion range.
Also the car will not want to start at first with the seafoam in there, it will the second time. No need to suck out the excess, as it burns off just as it would if you put it into a vacuum line.
Are you able to get the threading on the filters?
What I would like to find is even longer one because the clearance is not a big problem for us since we need to get under the car to take the filter off anyway.
PCB, I got the same part number for both the 626 and 929 in the pureone filter tough. I saw the fram ultras/tough guard filter are about $5 from rockauto.
PCB, I just thought it was funny that fram uses slightly different filters while purolator uses the same one.
So I did a piston soak last night using seafoam, very easy to do and am presently surprised with my already noticeable outcome. Originally I planned to do this because my pro5 was consuming 1 qt of oil every 500-1000 miles. I pulled the spark plugs out and checked the electrodes, they looked suited but no oil on them (only 1 week old). I then took a flashlight and looked down the spark plug holes and found that cylinder 4 had oil sitting on top of the piston. Same cylinder that sucked up a VICS bolt from my intake manifold twice. I have a feeling there are some relation to my oil consumption and the bolt. however I’ve already noticed a better throttle response and slight increase in hp. I’ll keep chiming in on oil consumption to let you know if it’s got any better.
This thread can help with your fuel filter:
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...How-To-Change-Your-Fuel-Filter-(lots-of-pics)
I saw that thread before. Its a nightmare to do. I hope I never have to replace my filter.
Hey man so I never really found out lol mine has miles and have learned to live with it. Wow this post is old. But for your problem something is definitely wrong if you go through that much oil on a new engine. Of take it in somewhere. Has to be smoking or leaking to lose that much. Mine sits in the garage these faysi never saw a response from big d. I'm having the same problem, but my twist is i have a new engine. i haven't even been 3 thousand miles and have had to add 2 qts. The pcv valve was changed also. the car isn't smoking, it runs great. just want to figure out where the oil is going. i bought the car with a knocking engine. and with the way it is losing oil i'm beginning to think thats why it spun a rod. it's not like the car holds alot of oil to begin with and when you lose a qt every couple of weeks, the average person doesn't even check there oil that often. Would like to hear if anyone has found the culprit. alot of post on issue but no answers
... Would like to hear if anyone has found the culprit. alot of post on issue but no answers