in theory there shouldn't be any movement there. if it were me, i'd try to move it out a little bit, or cut back the strut tower mount.
What have you done to your Mazda5 today?
- Thread starter Rockin03mp5
- Start date
in theory there shouldn't be any movement there. if it were me, i'd try to move it out a little bit, or cut back the strut tower mount.
Last weekend I washed my wife's 3 and installed the Mazda scuff guard on the rear bumper. Yesterday I added a Mazda cargo net to the back of the 5 (no picture) and today I put the Yakima bike tray onto the Thule rack. Next up for the 5 is tires.
While working on the other car, a storm blew through and left behind a very pink sky so I ran and grabbed the camera.
While working on the other car, a storm blew through and left behind a very pink sky so I ran and grabbed the camera.
rodslinger
Member
Long day....
Replaced the motor mounts, changed oil, 3 quart trans flush, changed the A/C belt, rotated the tires, washed and vac'd.... Did a 2300 mile road trip last week and she was in need of a little TLC today. On a side note, the A/C belt is a mucker futher if you don't have the correct install tool.
Replaced the motor mounts, changed oil, 3 quart trans flush, changed the A/C belt, rotated the tires, washed and vac'd.... Did a 2300 mile road trip last week and she was in need of a little TLC today. On a side note, the A/C belt is a mucker futher if you don't have the correct install tool.
- :
- 2008 Mazda5 GT
Finally put on the MS3 RSB. Paired it with Prothane bushings and Moog MS3 end links. The MS3 Moog end links are tricky to put on but there's a trick. This is how the car should have rolled off the assembly line! Still unsure if I want to do the FSB too... Next month or two, hope to put on the MS3 brakes back on and if time permit do the Coilovers.
EDIT:
Moog end links are MUCH beefier. For those considering Moog end links, it can be a pain to install. There's an opening to slide in an open wrench to hold the it down while you tighten. You then need a locking vice grip pliers to hold the wrench steady. I dont have one but a ratcheting wrench would be very helpful. Moog does NOT use center allen wrench to hold it down like OE end links.
MS3 OEM bushing collars are nothing more than crimp-on. You can easily unclip it and move to anywhere you want.
The black nuts are from the Moog kit. I like the MS3 nut more (taller and has locking channel inside) so I reused them. The left most are the dinky Mz5 nuts.
End product. The Prothane buisngs look like that is the size it should have came out of the assembly line. MS3 using the same OE bushing clamp as the Mz5, different bushing size.
Finish product. I did not have clucks to start with but no new noise either. The rear end is much tighter (not stiff).
EDIT:
Moog end links are MUCH beefier. For those considering Moog end links, it can be a pain to install. There's an opening to slide in an open wrench to hold the it down while you tighten. You then need a locking vice grip pliers to hold the wrench steady. I dont have one but a ratcheting wrench would be very helpful. Moog does NOT use center allen wrench to hold it down like OE end links.
MS3 OEM bushing collars are nothing more than crimp-on. You can easily unclip it and move to anywhere you want.
The black nuts are from the Moog kit. I like the MS3 nut more (taller and has locking channel inside) so I reused them. The left most are the dinky Mz5 nuts.
End product. The Prothane buisngs look like that is the size it should have came out of the assembly line. MS3 using the same OE bushing clamp as the Mz5, different bushing size.
Finish product. I did not have clucks to start with but no new noise either. The rear end is much tighter (not stiff).
Last edited:
Yesterday...while preparing to change out spark plugs (NGK Iridium IX), went to disconnect (-) battery cable and it was extrememly corroded. The post had pulled away from the housing and was loose. Took it back to Autozone for a new one (free exchange of course). Also put in new air filter.
Today, full interior and exterior cleaning.
2007 with 98K miles.
Today, full interior and exterior cleaning.
2007 with 98K miles.
I plan to do the same.. did you replace all three motor mounts? how difficult was it? did you need special tools?
Did you replace the stock motor mounts with new stock motor mounts or did you get a stiffer aftermarket set? If aftermarket, can you please tell us where you found them, what brand, and how does it feel to drive with the new mounts? Thanks very much!
Yes h&r springs
markuszoom5
Member
- :
- Mazda 5 Sport
Washed and waxed the 5 finally.
rodslinger
Member
I bought a set of aftermarket mounts, not necessarily improved mounts. Just generic replacements. And in my haste to get things done I later realized I bought mounts for the 2.0 engine, not the 2.3. They still bolted up through. Not sure about long term reliability but for the short term there is an improvement. No special tools needed. Just some ramps, jack, jackstands, hand tools and patience. The engine and rear torque mount are super easy. Trans mount take a bit longer.
I'll probably take my original mounts and fill them and swap them back in at a later date.
This is the actual set I bought. Ooops... 2.0...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
This should be the correct set....
https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
- :
- 2006 Mazda5 Touring
^^ Didja get the one specifically for the 5 or one meant for the 3? I'll be interested to see what you think of it. I wish there were more options available for headers for these things...
New Posts and Comments
- Article
For Sale (Unverified)
New AutoExe parts, Used Pedal Commander and more for 2021 CX-5
2017~2025
Strut information
