Air filter for CX-5 - is the dealer the only place we can get one?

Haven't heard much about AEM. Do they clean well and flow better than OEM?
No oils needed to clean. Just spray their product & dry.
I guess I'll just buy OEM replacements, since ours don't need to be changed for 30k miles. Prob spend the same amount vs K&N/AEM, etc.. Reusable/washable filters.
 
does anybody have a k&n in their cx-5 yet..?
ive been looking to buy one since i got the car last week(obviously not dirty yet...i've owned it for a week..has about 60mi on it)
but figured i'd get a hair better performance, sound and mpg sicne it flows better...

on my old focus and fusion they worked great...and in my dad's old explorer too...but my wife's car got cel's from day 1(...so i took it back out and sold it...)

figrued i'd ask if anybody's had issues with them..since i know people sometimes complain they get cel's with them(ussually after cleaning and overoiling them)...
 
does anybody have a k&n in their cx-5 yet..?
ive been looking to buy one since i got the car last week(obviously not dirty yet...i've owned it for a week..has about 60mi on it)
but figured i'd get a hair better performance, sound and mpg sicne it flows better...

An oiled cotton gauze filter (such as K&N) will return the same or worse performance, about the same cabin noise level and the same or worse MPG.

But it will let more dirt into the engine, take more time to service and have higher long-term operating costs (due to more dirt in the intake which will impact the accuracy and useful life of the MAF sensor as well as the life of valve guides, piston rings, etc.).

In short, there is zero potential benefit coupled with considerable long term risk.
 
An oiled cotton gauze filter (such as K&N) will return the same or worse performance, about the same cabin noise level and the same or worse MPG.

But it will let more dirt into the engine, take more time to service and have higher long-term operating costs (due to more dirt in the intake which will impact the accuracy and useful life of the MAF sensor as well as the life of valve guides, piston rings, etc.).

In short, there is zero potential benefit coupled with considerable long term risk.

He's completely right. The K&N filter for my Tundra had 50% less surface area than the stock Toyota filter (more pleats on Toyota) and cost it 4 RWHP when switched out back to back with a stock Toyota filter. Also if you over oil them they can coat the MAF sensor and cause poor performance and a CEL too.
 
Also if you over oil them they can coat the MAF sensor and cause poor performance and a CEL too.

i know not to over oil them, like i said ive had them in the past....thats why i mentioned about not overoiling after a wash...
but what about the "factory oiling" where its not to excess?...figured id ask before getting one and getting cel's all day like my wife's car(tho it probably doesn't help i bought it used, not new so it was liely overoiled from the beginning...but i was too lazy to wash and re-oil prperly..so i just resold it)

i know the filters have less surface area...that's the point...less filter = less airflow restriction, which can increase performance even if only marginally...the point is to allow the engine not to work as hard when trying to suck air through the filter...

yes, paper filters like the oe kind are much better at filtering...but not the best for airflow...
k&n style filters are better at airflow and have theoretically the same filtering ability BECAUSE of the oil(that's the point of the oil) helps catch the small dust and dirt particles that would otherwise get through the filter if allowed to just fly through when it's dry...yes, some extra dust and dirt will get through, but thats why you do intake cleaning services(as recommended by everybody in the industry) to help remove normal deposits, along with the "excess" you added from the extra airflow...
 
I've had 4 K&N air filters on 4 different cars, for up to +50k miles, no CELs & no MAF sensor problems.
I'd like to see some documentation on some of the claims above that the K&N filters caused problems.
 
(tho it probably doesn't help i bought it used, not new so it was liely overoiled from the beginning...but i was too lazy to wash and re-oil prperly..so i just resold it)

That's one situation in which laziness worked to your benefit. However, I can't fathom buying a used air filter.

{quote]i know the filters have less surface area...that's the point...less filter = less airflow restriction, which can increase performance even if only marginally...the point is to allow the engine not to work as hard when trying to suck air through the filter...

No offense, but you don't seem to understand even the most basic mechanics of the fluid dynamics involved in filtration.

Filters have pleats precisely to increase surface area. This is not a bad thing! The increased filter area reduces the velocity of air through the filter media. This reduction in velocity corresponds to a reduction in pressure differential. And the reduction in pressure differential increases the flow rate while simultaneously increasing filtering effectiveness.

Which flows better, a capped garden hose with one pin hole in it or a soaker hose in which the entire length of the hose is the "filter" media? More filter area = more pores in the filter media = more flow.
 
I think I'll head over the 3 forum and see if anyone is happy with their K&N filters. Read a few posts in various forums and the consensus is the K&N contributes to worse gas mileage, probably allows more dirt into the engine causing faster wear, and may provide 1% - 4% more horsepower but only at maximum RPM. Might save some money over replacing stock filters for a lifetime but if you lose 5-10% fuel economy, it actually costs more.

Actually, in most cases, an oiled cotton air filter will make the same or less peak power when compared directly to a paper OEM air filter.

MightyCarMods tested the theory that a "performance" air filter increased peak HP. You can see the results here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PAIxeQUSg-Q
 
No offense, but you don't seem to understand even the most basic mechanics of the fluid dynamics involved in filtration.

Filters have pleats precisely to increase surface area. This is not a bad thing! The increased filter area reduces the velocity of air through the filter media. This reduction in velocity corresponds to a reduction in pressure differential. And the reduction in pressure differential increases the flow rate while simultaneously increasing filtering effectiveness.

Which flows better, a capped garden hose with one pin hole in it or a soaker hose in which the entire length of the hose is the "filter" media? More filter area = more pores in the filter media = more flow.

I could not have said this better myself, thank you.
 
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