CHEAP: Rear Lower tie bar on the CHEAP

kcdirtbro54

Member
:
mazda2
First off: I'm not trying to step on anyone's toes (CS and RB), but I know this will save people money and who doesn't want to save a few bucks where ever they can?

Ever since I bought my 2 in November, I've been eyeing a few upgrades that I'd like to do to the car. Nothing major, as it's a DD and won't be raced. I saw Corksport's rear torsion bar and thought.... I bet a rear lower tie bar from another car that has a huge aftermarket will fit just fine. Why another car with a huge aftermarket? Because rear lower tie bars (and many other similar suspension bars) can be bought on Ebay for 15-20$.

Thinking this, I measured the 2 holes in our rear beam (20-21") where the CS bar would bolt to and began searching car forums and Google trying to find the lengths of other cars' lower tie bars. And trust me, it hasn't been a quick or easy process. Sellers won't tell you how long the bars are and being a BMW tech, I don't see any other car make out there anymore to be able to measure between suspension bolts. The other night my searching paid off. A guy on some Nissan forum with a B13 Sentra (91-94) was in the same boat as I and wanted one for his Sentra. He found out that the B13 is 20-21" between bolts and had a buddy that had an EK Civic (96-00). Turns out they were the same length and he installed a rear lower tie bar from a 96-00 Civic on his B13. I saw this info and immediately ordered a rear lower tie bar for a 96-00 Civic off Ebay for a grand total of $15 shipped to my door (had some Ebay bucks to use to bring it down to 15$).

So this is what arrived on Friday
bar.jpg


I went to the hardware store and bought 2 bolts, 2 nuts and 2 washers (shown at bottom of pic). bolts/nuts are 7/16". I bought standard sized because my hardware store has a terrible selection of metric bolts and NONE that are high grade and/or zinc coated.

Install was simple. I first bolted the brackets up with bolts from hardware store. then adjusted the bar until the holes lined up with the brackets. Now the bolts supplied with the bar have a hex nut on one side and an 8mm allen head on the bolt. If I were to do this again, I would suggest getting a hex bolt and nut for bolting the bar up because you CAN NOT get an allen socket on the bolt to keep it from turning. I just used pliers to hold the allen bolt while I tightened the 14mm nut on the other side.

Installed
bar2.jpg


Driving impressions are ok. I can tell the back end is tighter and for $16.50 grand total (bar and hardware) I can't complain at all. I haven't pushed the car much because of traffic but I can notice a difference.

My apologies if I left anything out. Feel free to ask any questions. Just thought I'd offer an alternative to spending $115 or $208 for other options.

CS: This gives me some extra cash saved towards making a multi item order with you guys.
 
wow thanks for the info...i'll def be lookin into this...the other concern i have though is what is the diameter of the bar vs the cs or the rb one? im sure you know where im going with this...they make the bars to do something specific for each car...maybe this one will do smething different
 
I just checked both CS and RB's sites and the RB rear sway is 1.5" OD steel tubing. Whether that is hollow or solid, I don't know. CS's bar is made from 1" aluminum. The bar I used is flat so I don't have a diameter. I could measure width and depth for you if you'd like. Obviously, the bar I used is adjustable, therefore won't be superior to CS or RB designs, but a a cost of $20, I don't mind one bit. And your everyday 2 driver most likely couldn't tell a difference between these 3 options. If you check the pics on the CS site this bar bolts to the same holes as the CS bar.

Hopefully you see where I'm coming from on this. Trying to save a couple bucks and provide a cheaper option for fellow owners. Unfortunately, I dont have a R&D department to prove how this holds up to CS and RB products. I realize theirs are superior but at the savings stated, I think this is a great alternative.
 
don't get me wrong brother, im not giving you s*** or anything for what you've done. I'm looking into it myself as a means to save money. I'm just urging caution is all...

if anyone is wondering, Megan Racing makes a bar for the 96-00 ek hatch that you would need. It's 50 MSRP but im sure you could get it cheaper as well...
 
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No worries. If someone wants to flame me for this, by all means go for it. This bar is the same thing as the Megan one. Not sure what caution there is.As long as everything is tight, there will be no issues. Even if it wasn't tight, it might rattle and wouldn't be as affect, that's it.
Either way, I've got an extra 100 to put towards a CS order towards an intake, exhaust, crank pulley, front sway or front strut bar
 
I wish i would have seen this before i put in my order for the CS one -_-.

Don't be dissapointed. THE CS bar is great to have and you will have the added bennefit of know ing you have the best one available. Just remember there is ALWAYS someone else getting stuff cheaper than you...even if it's not the exact same part.....
 
yea i got the same bar but i installed it a little different. since it came with allen head bolts i used those to bolt it to the trailing arm because you cant really get an allen key in the arm.
 
Installed mine today. I used a Megan racing lower tie bar. Got it for $35.
 

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nice work Kyle. I was going to text you at some point to see what else you had done to your 2, but have been a little busy.
 
It's the same thing just has different end links/joints. I probably would have bought that style had there been any on the 'Bay when I got mine.
 
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