What have you done to your MSP today?

I'm not trying to be a dick, but how in the hell are you still making payments on a 9 year old car that originally sold for $20k??!?!

considering his join date is 2009 something tells me he bought it used.

it may be a 9 year old car but that doesn't mean he is the original owner. You will be surprised at how many times a lot of MSPs cycle through dealership lots. Hell, I may be picking up an Evo 8 or 9 pretty soon depending on condition. If I picked up an 03 Evo 8 tomorrow, would you be surprised if Im making payments on it next year even though it's a 9 year old car? Not being a dick or anything, just don't think you thought about the question clearly before asking, that's all. Im not the original owner of my MSP, and Im still making payments(three payments left)


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LOL I had to guys! On another note congrats on only havign 3 payments left. I had planned on payign my car off with my income taxes but it doesn't appear that will be happeneing. Stupid taxes keep going up while my paycheck goes down. Oh well ill have it just about paid off with my income taxes and will have about 2-3 payments as well.
 
I'd love to have a evo 8 or 9 but the insurance is insane, for me:) I'm what they call a high risk but somehow i managed to protect that msp.
 
Well when it rains it pours. Looks like I am doing a valve cover gasket job this weekend. At 60k miles.

Oh well, ya gotta pay to play, right?

So this weekend's agenda; Valve cover gasket, paint valve cover, make water neck spacer for downpipe, re-weld meth nozzle hole, weld a washer to intake charge pipe to allow more threads for said meth nozzle, tap washer and charge pipe, remove fender liners and properly install mudflaps with bolts, nuts, and washers, and modify BOV outlet.

Sounds like fun. Not. I actually hate working on cars. Ask my wife and she'd probably tell you different though, lol.

Think I'm gonna wait on the dyno tune now.
 
Lets see...

This week I put a clutch in it. I am also replacing the T-belt, tensioners, and water pump as preventative maintenance. I am also re-centering the FMIC to the grill. When I put it in originally I did it in one night so it wasn't perfect. I also hit a sign (yield to peds, haha) and knocked out the lower grill. I think I'm going to cut out the remaining mounting tabs and vertical supports to just do-away with the grill all together. The sign cracked the bottom lip of the bumper so I will epoxy that back together and paint it.

I live in Michigan so the car is suffering from cancer. I need a new hood.. Any one in the Detroit metro area have a spare?
 
Sounds like fun. Not. I actually hate working on cars. Ask my wife and she'd probably tell you different though, lol.

I hear ya!

So last weekened I changed my rear strut mounts for P5 ones cause they were making a clunking noise, drove fine for a few days and now its back. FML. I need to get some coilovers. The BC fit with stock wheels without any spacer or anything right?
 
if the coolant temp sensor sees it being real hot itll pull timing as well. check that sensor too.

Knock Sensor
Torque is 25.2 ft/lb

bad knock sensor should throw a code. but:

INSPECT PCM CONNECTOR TERMINAL
Turn ignition key to OFF.
Disconnect PCM connector.
Check for poor connection at terminals 57 and
66 (damaged, pulled-out pins, corrosion, etc.).
Is there any malfunction?
Yes Repair terminal, then go to Step 8.
No Go to next step.

4 INSPECT KNOCK SENSOR CIRCUITS FOR
OPEN CIRCUIT
Disconnect knock sensor connector.
Check continuity between the following circuits:
Knock sensor female terminal A (harnessside)
and PCM terminal 57 (harness-side)
Knock sensor female terminal B (harnessside)
and PCM terminal 59 (harness-side)
Is there continuity?
Yes Go to next step.
No Repair or replace suspected wiring harness, then go to
Step 8.

5 INSPECT KNOCK SENSOR CIRCUITS FOR
SHORT TO GROUND
Check continuity between following circuits:
Knock sensor female terminal A (harnessside)
and body ground
Knock sensor female terminal B (harnessside)
and body ground
Is there continuitity?
Yes Repair or replace suspected wiring harness, then go to
Step 8.
No Go to next step.

6 CHECK FOR SHORT CIRCUITS
Check continuity between knock sensor female
terminals A and B (harness-side).
Is there continuity?
Yes Repair or replace suspected harness, then go to Step 8.
No Go to next step.

7 CHECK KNOCK SENSOR RESISTANCE
Measure resistance between knock sensor
terminals (part-side).
Is resistance approx. 560 kilohms?
Yes Go to next step.
No Replace knock sensor, then go to next step.

8 VERIFY TROUBLESHOOTING OF DTC P0325
COMPLETED
Make sure to reconnect all disconnected
connectors.
Turn ignition key to ON (Engine OFF).
Clear DTC from memory using WDS or
equivalent.
Start engine.
Access ECT, RPM and LOAD PIDs using WDS
or equivalent.
Run vehicle more than 5 seconds in the
following conditions:
ECT: above 60 C {140 F}
RPM: 1,5005,000 rpm
LOAD: above 50%
Is same DTC present?
Yes Replace or reprogram PCM. Then go to next step.
No Go to next step.

9 VERIFY AFTER REPAIR PROCEDURE
Perform After Repair Procedure
(See 0102B9 AFTER REPAIR
PROCEDURE [FS].)
Is there any DTC present?
Yes Go to applicable DTC inspection.
(See 0102B15 DTC TABLE [FS].)
No Troubleshooting completed.
wouldnt i also get a CEL for the coolant temp if it was malfunctioning as well? i unplugged the knock sensor and drove home from work and the car ran perfect, the timing would behave as it normally would with the sensor plugged in and ran just like it does when its not bogging. anyone know what size the knock sensor is off the top of their head, i guess i need to buy an 02 socket or something similar to torque it since the wires coming out of the back of the sensor keep a normal socket from fitting on right
 
wouldnt i also get a CEL for the coolant temp if it was malfunctioning as well? i unplugged the knock sensor and drove home from work and the car ran perfect, the timing would behave as it normally would with the sensor plugged in and ran just like it does when its not bogging. anyone know what size the knock sensor is off the top of their head, i guess i need to buy an 02 socket or something similar to torque it since the wires coming out of the back of the sensor keep a normal socket from fitting on right

yea, you should get a code, but i figured it was something else to check. if you unplugged it and it ran fine, thats probably a good indicator the sensor is bad or throwing a wrong voltage, unless your actually detonating. 25.2 ft lb isnt alot, if you cant find a socket for it, you can do it by hand, just dont overtighten it.
 
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Went to a 1.9 mile track yesterday with an SVT group, mostly GT500s, Shelby GTs, two '12 Boss 302s and a Boss 302 LS, a couple cobras and GTs, a new V8 M3 with exhaust and a 335i. And since it was slick I was passing all of them on the track, I pushed the car harder than I ever have and after the third session the stock rad had a small crack with coolant bubbling out of it so I just babied it home. I had a blast and cant wait to go back, also met a former owner of a Spicy that has a trunk brace and midpipe for me.

Time for a Mishimoto full size, new silicone hoses, new overflow bottle, new dual slim fans and new rad. brackets.
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So if it runs fine with the knock sensor unplugged, then its bad? Im also wondering if i havw simerhing vibraying against the motor or something and is showing false knock


yea, you should get a code, but i figured it was something else to check. if you unplugged it and it ran fine, thats probably a good indicator the sensor is bad or throwing a wrong voltage, unless your actually detonating. 25.2 ft lb isnt alot, if you cant find a socket for it, you can do it by hand, just dont overtighten it.
 
So I'm going to do a spark plug change on the MSP and have been running NGK Iridium plugs, but didn't know if there was anything better for her. I haven't had any problems at all with the ones I've running, but just wanted yourguys opinion.
 
I was passing all of them on the track, I pushed the car harder than I ever have and after the third session the stock rad had a small crack with coolant bubbling out of it so I just babied it home. I had a blast and cant wait to go back, also met a former owner of a Spicy that has a trunk brace and midpipe for me.

Time for a Mishimoto full size, new silicone hoses, new overflow bottle, new dual slim fans and new rad. brackets.

Sounds like a good way to have a part fail! Awesome! Can't wait to get mine on to an actual track.
 
So I'm going to do a spark plug change on the MSP and have been running NGK Iridium plugs, but didn't know if there was anything better for her. I haven't had any problems at all with the ones I've running, but just wanted yourguys opinion.

that's what i've always used
 
Protege vendors are disappearing right in front of my eyes. I can't bear to watch! :'(

Yeah tell me about it... I was literally double checking the price on one to see if i can order it with my income taxes and my car is about paid off! So I can have more money for go fast parts.... It really blows.
 
I wonder why? its not like its hard to make he already has the CNC program so all you have to do is load the machine and weld the pieces together.
 
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