Mazda 3 collision repair (lots-o-pics)

Josue6WGN

Member
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2004 6 Wagon S
Hello 3 owners! (and anyone else who might stumble into this thread, lol) I'm a body man, and right now I've got a 3 to fix, so I thought I'd share some pics of the process. The average car owner never gets to see their cars in the state I see them in, let alone understand what goes into repairing wrecked vehicles, so I thought I'd shine some light on a part of it!

Damage is...

-New quarter panel
-New rear door shell
-Repair inner quarter panel
-Tear down front door to blend color


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Torn down. Some of this needs to be removed to get it out of the way of the repairs to be made, but some to just ensure it doesn't get damaged during the repair process.

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Pile of parts.

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Most people know or can figure out the parts of a car that simply unbolt, but structural components are welded together. Quarter panels technically aren't structural, they're cosmetic, but they're still welded on. They also make glue now that's ridiculously strong, so we're able to glue quarter panels on in most spots (back by the tail lights, and the seams where the quarter is spliced and blended into the rest of the car needs to be welded still) and makes it MUCH faster. Roofs can also be glued on because they're cosmetic as well.

There are a few ways to get the welds apart. Spot weld drill bits are pretty common. There are a few different kinds, here's the one I have...

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It cuts a circle around the weld, then you just pop the panel off. (after drilling a few dozen welds!)

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I don't like to use it that much though, mostly because it's physically exhausting drilling THAT many welds. (sometimes there could be 70-80 welds on something!) And this particular kind of bit leaves the center of the weld, so you have to grind that flat after you get the panel off, meaning more work.

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There are better kinds of bits, but this one is the cheapest. I prefer to use a cut-off wheel to grind the weld down though. It's messy, with all the sparks being thrown everywhere, so you have to protect the car more with welding blankets covering the remainder of the interior, exterior of the car, glass, etc., and it's also loud as hell...but I wear ear protection, so whatever. lol You get douched with sparks too!

Here's what it looks like to grind down a spot weld...

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Soooo......again, a few dozen times, cut the seams, and it's ready to pop off. I only had time to do the lower portion today, I wanted to show you guys the damage behind the quarter panel. This will get hammered and smoothed out with a hammer and dolly.

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Couple tools of choice.

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That's all for today! I'll be updating this as I continue the repairs, so be sure to check back. I'll also be happy to answer any questions you may have. :)
 
Thanks for taking care of Ashley's car, Josh. I know she'll be impressed by all of your hard work.
 
Thanks for taking care of Ashley's car, Josh. I know she'll be impressed by all of your hard work.

Thanks for the referral! This is going to be a good job for me, they bought brand new OEM Mazda parts. Makes my life MUCH easier!

It's surprising they'd go OEM though, there must not have been any used parts available?

Oh shoot, all the fancy tools that stay at work!

Told you all my good stuff was at work. :P

That cut off wheel is the s***. It's reversible, so I have more control of where I throw the sparks. My air chisel is powerful as all hell, but the trigger sticks on it, so it's a pain to use. The MAC guy just sent it out to have it fixed, but it's still doing it, so I'm gonna b**** to him today. lol
 
This is a very cool thread Josh! I'm looking forward to following the progress.
 
I wish my monitor was newer/better. The darker pictures are well .....dark. Probably not the pictures just my screen, I would compare it to an 80's color T.V only smaller.
 
Does that air drill still bog down? It seems like my 18v Ryobi has more moxie than the one you had in your garage, but it's hard to say.
 
No, they don't bog down. If they do, you're pressing too hard and need to let the tool/drill bit do more of the work.
 
Got a lot done today....pics!

New 1/4...

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Inner 1/4 all straightened out...

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Old 1/4 cut the rest of the way off...

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Test fitting...

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Gotta hang the door and deck lid to make sure the gaps are good. If they're not, you need to take as much time as it takes to tweak it here and there until they're good!

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I'm pretty good. :D

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Prep work involves grinding the factory e-coat (black stuff) away so the welder gets a good connection. Needs to be clean on all 4 surfaces/both sides of both pieces of metal.

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The orange stuff is weld through primer. Gives better connectivity for the weld.

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On the 2 seams that get sectioned into the rest of the car, sometimes the cuts aren't quite close enough to simply butt weld together, so a sleeve is in order to help fill the gap.

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This is the only spot I panel bonded (glued) the rest I was able to weld.

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I mig welded the seams and a few areas where the spot welder we have won't reach, as well as used the spot welder on all the accessible areas. Here it is...does a good job of recreating factory spot welds.

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Mig welded and ground down/ready for body filler...

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I'll get the filler work done tomorrow, as well as the front door torn down for paint. Moving right along!
 
Thanks guys. A job like this is the easiest case scenario for 1/4 panel replacement, it wasn't even hit hard enough to require any time on the frame machine. (to pull out the heavy damage) It's pretty much as simple as replacing a door or fender, just that it welds on instead of bolting on.

Where you run into problems is, when other things are damaged/tweaked that prevent a good fit. That's when it requires more experience, to know what to do to get the 1/4 to slide forward a bit because the gap is too wide to the door, how to get the gap a little wider to the deck lid because it's too tight, how to move the tail light pocket around because the 1/4 to deck lid gap is good, but the tail light is too close to the lid...I could go on. lol As you can maybe imagine, tweaking around welded on panels is quite harder than simply loosening up some fender bolts and moving it where you want to because there's adjustment in the holes.
 
Wow I hope I never need to fix any body work but I know where I'm going if I do. Nice job man and thanks again for posting the step-by-step process. Very cool to see!
 
Like Josh said, "best case scenario". It is much harder to get for example, a junk yard quarter panel that has been cut off and is still connected to the body structure. Then you have to cut off the panel from two body structures and still get them cut off close enough to go together on the car. Looks are very decieving when it comes to body and frame repair. I won't even start on the issues that are faced in getting the paint to match after a repair is done. I am sure Josh will fill us in on that. I like this thread alot, it is car stuff that I actually have a lot of knowledge of, my dad was a body man for about 40 years (he's retired now). So I have spent a lot of hours watching him do what I at times thought wasn't even possible.
 
Like Josh said, "best case scenario". It is much harder to get for example, a junk yard quarter panel that has been cut off and is still connected to the body structure. Then you have to cut off the panel from two body structures and still get them cut off close enough to go together on the car. Looks are very decieving when it comes to body and frame repair. I won't even start on the issues that are faced in getting the paint to match after a repair is done. I am sure Josh will fill us in on that. I like this thread alot, it is car stuff that I actually have a lot of knowledge of, my dad was a body man for about 40 years (he's retired now). So I have spent a lot of hours watching him do what I at times thought wasn't even possible.

I have pics of a used 1/4 I did on a Neon years ago, I'll share them tonight when I get some down time.

LOL... she's been trying to figure that out since before Mid Ohio, if you get a chance could you take a quick look? might just be a blown fuse

Sure can!
 

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