^^ this
Cold air-intake or a short ram?
- Thread starter pjdublada858
- Start date
^^ this
My take on intakes. (get it?)
Cold air intakes are best for powa, it's been dyno proven. But get an AEM bypass valve and install it. I hydrolocked my Civic's motor with an AEM cold air intake while coasting through a puddle with the car in neutral around 800rpm at 10mph. It's that easy to hydrolock a motor. The AEM bypass valve is proven to prevent it.
Short air intakes work well and you don't need to worry about hydro-locking your motor. But draw warmer engine air. But are safer for running year round. I had an AEM intake on my P5 for about 2 years without a problem.
Currently I made a short air intake using Autozone parts and a K&N air filter. The tubing is plastic so it won't heat soak as much as metal. I painted mine black with that spray paint formulated for plastic and it's held up really well for the last 2 months I've been running it. I think the couplers and tubing cost me about $50 and the filter was about $40. But I had to come up with a custom solution in my case. Otherwise I completely agree with everyone that an eBay intake kit will work just fine, just replace the filter with a quality filter. And you can buy a grommit pack at Autozone if you need to drill a hole for your IAT sensor.
Best of luck, mate.
Cold air intakes are best for powa, it's been dyno proven. But get an AEM bypass valve and install it. I hydrolocked my Civic's motor with an AEM cold air intake while coasting through a puddle with the car in neutral around 800rpm at 10mph. It's that easy to hydrolock a motor. The AEM bypass valve is proven to prevent it.
Short air intakes work well and you don't need to worry about hydro-locking your motor. But draw warmer engine air. But are safer for running year round. I had an AEM intake on my P5 for about 2 years without a problem.
Currently I made a short air intake using Autozone parts and a K&N air filter. The tubing is plastic so it won't heat soak as much as metal. I painted mine black with that spray paint formulated for plastic and it's held up really well for the last 2 months I've been running it. I think the couplers and tubing cost me about $50 and the filter was about $40. But I had to come up with a custom solution in my case. Otherwise I completely agree with everyone that an eBay intake kit will work just fine, just replace the filter with a quality filter. And you can buy a grommit pack at Autozone if you need to drill a hole for your IAT sensor.
Best of luck, mate.
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I would say SRI, I have had both SRI and CAI, other than a small sound difference there is no major diff in both. As for hydro locking a motor, I used an AEM short ram, with NO fender liners, never had an issue in rain, snow sleet or whatever else was out there. I only upgraded to an CAI bc the price was right. Becaseful of all these knock offs alot of em dont clear the brake cylender and will pop a hole over time in the back of the piping.
For the $ saved go to Ebay a buy urself one. At the end of the day its about sound not power 130+3h is 133hp which is nothing. My boat has more HP than my car, sad but true.
For the $ saved go to Ebay a buy urself one. At the end of the day its about sound not power 130+3h is 133hp which is nothing. My boat has more HP than my car, sad but true.
+1, I paid 30 Shipped to my doorstep in Canada xD
Mine:
I think I just realized I have an eBay intake lol. Mine is same s*** just yellow couplers
tweety2300
Member
- :
- 2001 mazda protege mp3
I would like to see those dyno sheets. From a physics stand point it would make more sense that an sri would make more power as long as long its placed ina cooler spot because it would be harder for the engine to suck air through the longer piping with more bends which would lose velocity with a cai. Although I'm probly wrong I'm not saying which is better both have their cons I have an sri just cause I like the sound
I like a real CAI in that it gets you the most cold, higher density air for higher peak power. I don't like the hydrolock chance, even tho remote. Also, I don't like how my filter down there is subject to get very wet with the mist and splatter of heavy rain travel. I keep thinking that it will tend to wash the oil off the filter element.
I wanna say a few have tried a short ram setup, with a removable extension pipe down into the fender well. This could be removed in winter. Also, you could have some holes in it to prevent hydrolock (easier to pull some air thru the holes than lift a column of water) since the filter is downstream of the holes.
I wanna say a few have tried a short ram setup, with a removable extension pipe down into the fender well. This could be removed in winter. Also, you could have some holes in it to prevent hydrolock (easier to pull some air thru the holes than lift a column of water) since the filter is downstream of the holes.
This is not true. The engine has a vacuum that will put the air at the same speed. Were talking milli seconds in difference of timing. As well sucking cooler air is sought after bc there is more oxygen in "cold air" More oxygen equates to better/more combustion
That kinda defeats the purpose of the air filter then... But that's what the AEM bypass valve does.
Heck about two weeks ago I was driving home in a terrible thunderstorm and my motor almost stalled out a few times because the filter was damp. And I've got a short air intake. But I think it's because my hood is a little off-centered, I don't have an A/C cooler in front of my radiator anymore and a CF hood that doesn't have the gasket material to block in coming rain. It was scary as hell. Needless to say, I'm very hesitant to drive in heavy rain now.
Here's a pic of my intake I made with Autozone parts.
Not the best pic, but the filter is right behind the radiator, above the transmission. I want to redo the whole system soon and relocate the coolant resevoir so the filter is getting cooler air.
tweety2300
Member
- :
- 2001 mazda protege mp3
I hit a big puddle the other night sent water splashing over the hood with no problems but mine isn't pointed down either. And ijay that's a pretty good point. Can we just have somebody go to a dyno meet and test the actual difference between stock sri and cai? I'm suprised nobody has I would if I still had my stock airbox
like Lewis said earlier this is 3 hp on a 130 hp car, not worth spending the $$ to find out a .5 hp difference.
And for that .5 hp you'll never feel a difference with, it doesn't matter
anybody (with a few exceptions) looking to make performance with these cars goes turbo
