What have you done to your MSP today?

started my car for the first time since march, boost guage was reading about -16 and after a couple of revs it now sits at -30 like it's broken. AFR's were around 15 ish then went to unreadable in the red at idle.
 
For that price why didnt you just buy a brand new GT28RS with the .64 housing?

How I look at it is I am still saving $200-300 this way which I can use to get a new radiator which I need as mine is toast which helps get my car back on the road. I will be giving up some performance when compared to a normal GT28RS but I am not looking to make 300whp so to me a little sacrifice to save money and get more parts is OK.
 
started my car for the first time since march, boost guage was reading about -16 and after a couple of revs it now sits at -30 like it's broken. AFR's were around 15 ish then went to unreadable in the red at idle.

Check to see if you have an exhaust leak. Mine wouldn't read when I had an exhaust leak.
 
How I look at it is I am still saving $200-300 this way which I can use to get a new radiator which I need as mine is toast which helps get my car back on the road. I will be giving up some performance when compared to a normal GT28RS but I am not looking to make 300whp so to me a little sacrifice to save money and get more parts is OK.

I hope you got a corksport radiator. Its so awesome, wish I had one. The PWR is over rated.
 
i plan to pick up either a corksport or mishimoto during my build. i "upgraded" to a protege 5 rad when my oem ones upper hose hookup crumbled in my hand. if youve never had a water neck crumble in your hand, you dont know what your missing
 
Check to see if you have an exhaust leak. Mine wouldn't read when I had an exhaust leak.

it reads when I give it gas and when it first starts but I'll check for one, can't hurt at this point
 
Got through steps 1 and 2 of the transmission removal how-to in preparation for the clutch install. The top rear bolt for the starter exploded when I hit it with the impact gun, but it should not impede me removing it later on.

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Yea mine would read while driving but when at idle, blank. That's only from forgetting to tighten my dp up after my latest turbo swap
 
What type are you going to install? I got a nice combo for sale :)
OEM replacement. No need to move up when the car isn't going to be modded. Made some more progress after the post. Both axles pulled and I have more casualties. The nut welded on the inside of the front sub frame that holds the lateral section of the control arms broke on both sides, so I'll never be able to remove the control arms myself again. Broke another welded nut on the driver's side control arm bracket too. Long story short, if this car is going to last me a while, I'm going to need the dealership or a shop to replace the front sub frame. Gotta love the rust belt (pissed) Tomorrow I'll try and tackle the shift linkage, rear motor mount, and the starter. Wish me luck.
 
Blew out my exhaust manifold gasket yesterday at Brainerd International Raceway, so I put a new one in today.
 
Hey, what size barb is needed to tap the Brake booster line? 3/8" ?

Also, dont think anyone answered if they have a pic where they tapped it at.
 
Hey, what size barb is needed to tap the Brake booster line? 3/8" ?

Also, dont think anyone answered if they have a pic where they tapped it at.

yes i believe that's correct. and you'd tap the bb line to the left of the valve in the line. if you feel towards the middle of the line, you'd feel a hump. slice to the left of it.
 
Great, thanks.

I think with the Manifold I'm going to run BOV and Wastegate and run the Boost Gauge off the nipple on the IM.
 
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