Hypertech Max Energy Sport Programmer Feature Update: Idle Speed Adjustment

New Feature Update Notice!

Hypertech has now added support for IDLE SPEED ADJUSTMENT for the Max Energy Sport programmers for the 2006-2009 MAZDASPEED3/6 2.3L TURBO. Update your programmer for FREE via the Hypertech Tuner Update Software.

Part Number/Applications Covered:

62003- MAX ENERGY SPORT- MAZDA
2007-2009 Mazdaspeed3
2006-2007 Mazdaspeed6
2006-2009 Mazda3 MPS 2.3L Australian
2005-2007 Mazda6 MPS 2.3L Australian
2007-2009 Mazda3 MPS 2.3L European
2006-2007 Mazda6 MPS 2.3L European

Product Features Updated:
Adjust idle RPM: -100/+200 RPM (in 50 RPM increments)

This new update adds the option to raise or lower the idle speed of your car to your programmer. To update your programmer, install the Hypertech Tuner Update Software on your computer. To download the software from Hypertechs website, click here. Then connect the programmer to your computer with the supplied USB cable, and start the update software. Click on the Update Tuner button, and in a matter of seconds, you will have the latest revision.

*Note: Your vehicle must be programmed back to stock in order to update the tuner.


For more information, go to www.Hypertech.com, or call 901-382-8888.
 
I installed the new parameter this morning. Again, thanks to Chris and the HT staff for your continuing MS3 support!(2thumbs)
 
In lieu of starting a new thread, can someone please explain to me the idle adjustment?

Specifically, on a speed3 with stock mounts, if there are any benefits to raising the idle. I know lots of ppl are driving around with upgraded mounts and the idle and AC compressor (when running) make awful vibrations. But what will I gain from adjusting with nothing more than the ht and the mscai?

The only thing I notice at idle is what I assume is some misfiring every once in a while, which feels like a slight stumble of the engine at a stop. If I can get rid of it by adding 50rpms, ill do it. But I don't want to go messing with any of that if I don't need to

I'm sure hypertech did plenty of r&d on even this seemingly small addition to the tuner, but I'm not gonna play around with it if I don't need to
 
Meh...that smoking turbo thing is mostly he said she said anyway. Ppl have gotten it with and w/out the occ, some have gotten it with the change in oil weight, some have gotten it at low miles, etc

I will probably play around with the rpms a little anyway to see if iits worth it
 
I cranked mine up 200 rpm, even though there's no smoke. Makes the car easier to drive in stop and go over the ridiculous 650 rpm idle I had before. It's also alot quieter and less vibey at idle, especially ac on.

This is fantastic and the only real thing I've wanted out of the HT that it didn't have.
 
I cranked mine up 200 rpm, even though there's no smoke. Makes the car easier to drive in stop and go over the ridiculous 650 rpm idle I had before. It's also alot quieter and less vibey at idle, especially ac on.

This is fantastic and the only real thing I've wanted out of the HT that it didn't have.
Yeah, I gave it +200 rpm, also. The HT does make this car so much fun to drive!(drive2)
 
Amen. You guys said it all. Thanks HT for listening to us.

I don't have a smoking turbo, not even at 54,000 miles, most of it with catless dp/rp, but my SURE rear motor mount does cause some vibration at idle. So tomorrow a.m., I'll bump the idle up a few hundred revs and see if my dash mounted Garmin GPS will stop vibrating enough for me to read the darned thing when stopped in traffic.

Nice work, HT.

EDIT: Went ahead and reflashed for my HT tune parameters and gave it a 200 rpm bump tonight. Now idling smoothly at about 1025 rpm. Vibes from rmm are much, much less. Will give it a workout tomorrow. Super cool.

SECOND EDIT: After driving with it for a few days now, I can say that this is a fantastic improvement in NVH with the rear motor mount upgrade. It settles down to more like 975 indicated rpm once the engine is completely warmed up and at full operating temp.
 
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In lieu of starting a new thread, can someone please explain to me the idle adjustment?

Specifically, on a speed3 with stock mounts, if there are any benefits to raising the idle. I know lots of ppl are driving around with upgraded mounts and the idle and AC compressor (when running) make awful vibrations. But what will I gain from adjusting with nothing more than the ht and the mscai?

The only thing I notice at idle is what I assume is some misfiring every once in a while, which feels like a slight stumble of the engine at a stop. If I can get rid of it by adding 50rpms, ill do it. But I don't want to go messing with any of that if I don't need to

I'm sure hypertech did plenty of r&d on even this seemingly small addition to the tuner, but I'm not gonna play around with it if I don't need to

This option is just for personal preference. There is no specific reason it was created, other than as requested by Hypertech users. The benefits as reported by members on this forum, are less vibration at higher idle speed, and less smoke at higher idle speed. If the factory idle speed is ok on your car, then no need to change it.

Chris
 
EDIT: Went ahead and reflashed for my HT tune parameters and gave it a 200 rpm bump tonight. Now idling smoothly at about 1025 rpm. Vibes from rmm are much, much less. Will give it a workout tomorrow. Super cool.

SECOND EDIT: After driving with it for a few days now, I can say that this is a fantastic improvement in NVH with the rear motor mount upgrade. It settles down to more like 975 indicated rpm once the engine is completely warmed up and at full operating temp.

How did you get the engine to idle at 975 RPM ? I thought the stock idle is 700, and HT only goes up 200, making 900 RPM. Just curious . Thanks
 
How did you get the engine to idle at 975 RPM ? I thought the stock idle is 700, and HT only goes up 200, making 900 RPM. Just curious . Thanks

Well, I raised idle speed by 200 rpm. But you must understand that idle speed is not a fixed 700 rpm. Idle speed is set by the ECU mapping. The ECU receives imput from a lot of different sensors and adjusts idle speed according to the instructions set in its mapping. Changes in engine operating temperature at several different locations, including both coolant temps and engine oil temps play a role. Certain conditions related to emission control also affect idle temperature as does whether your A/C is turned on and whether the compressor is engaged, and have an effect on idle temperature.

What I can say is that at this time of year, in my geographical location (ambient temp 85-90 , humidity about 80%, altitude at sea level), with my engine fully warmed up (both oil and coolant temps at normal operating temperatures after driving the car for several miles), when stopped at a red light, the idle settles to just below 1,000 rpm. Our tachometer is not marked very well, especially the marks below 1,000 rpm, but my best read would be around 975 rpm. That is also with the A/C switched on, but the compressor not engaged. When the compressor kicks in, rpm rises about 150 rpm under the same conditions.

It's not a pure math equation of a fixed idle speed + 200 rpm. The ECU is reading a lot of sensor info and making dynamic changes to rpm at idle.
 

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