What have you done to your P5 today?

I like your reasoning but as soon as a hole develops the car will not pass inspection.

$2395 for a reman. engine + a $400 core with a 3yr warranty but I have to supply the timing belt, water pump and new seals
$1650 for a used engine (33K) with no core and a 90 day warranty and I have to supply the timing belt, water pump and new seals

I did have one guy offer to rebuild my engine for $1800...this would involve me getting the engine out and prepped for pick-up, shipped to him in TX and then shipped back to me. I'd only be without a car for two weeks. lol Or a rebuilt one from the same guy would be $2120, no core as he said he has no use for Mazda engines?

Why are used ones so much out there!? Because of the "low" mileage? Because from what everyone else was saying, and as I'm sure you read in my thread, that means little with these cars. I decided to not make that a buying point when I was looking for an engine. I lucked out and made a deal with Evan, but I still wouldn't pay more than $1000 for a motor.

Cheapest I found around here was LKQ that we deal with at work, $700/123K on it. If we lived closer, labor would be almost non existant! Between me and Evan, we could have you back on the road in a few days tops!
 
Do you have a TPMS system with those tires? because if you dont i would take them off. 1) its illegal to have runflats without a tpms system accroding to the DOT. and 2) you'll have no idea when your tires flat.

Are the MZ3 wheels even designed to be run with Run-flats? if not thats even more dangerous...just fyi
 
I like your reasoning but as soon as a hole develops the car will not pass inspection.

$2395 for a reman. engine + a $400 core with a 3yr warranty but I have to supply the timing belt, water pump and new seals
$1650 for a used engine (33K) with no core and a 90 day warranty and I have to supply the timing belt, water pump and new seals

I did have one guy offer to rebuild my engine for $1800...this would involve me getting the engine out and prepped for pick-up, shipped to him in TX and then shipped back to me. I'd only be without a car for two weeks. lol Or a rebuilt one from the same guy would be $2120, no core as he said he has no use for Mazda engines?

What's wrong with your engine?

And damn that's a strict inspection if you can't have any holes :S
 
Do you have a TPMS system with those tires? because if you dont i would take them off. 1) its illegal to have runflats without a tpms system accroding to the DOT. and 2) you'll have no idea when your tires flat.

Are the MZ3 wheels even designed to be run with Run-flats? if not thats even more dangerous...just fyi

ok, did NOT know that, and i didnt get tmps since the tpms probably doesnt even respond/wrk w the protege..
 
Rotated the tires and did rear brakes/rotors (just gonna pay to have the lines thrown on). Noticed that after the rotation the driver's side tire was low... and I mean LOW. Sat in a 7Eleven parking lot for about 20 mins using my joke of a cigarette lighter pump to get enough are in it to drive home. Going to see how much air is left tomorrow morning before work (thinking slow leak). Since the tires seem to be less than 6k miles old and I had them rotated by the place that I bought them from and the next day there was a leak (no off roading or hard driving on these tires) I will see what they can do about it.
 
ok, did NOT know that, and i didnt get tmps since the tpms probably doesnt even respond/wrk w the protege..

Thats why I figured I would tell you lol and I wasnt talking about a stock tpms system....im sure theres an aftermarket option out there somewhere.
But I wouldnt worry about it now that you have the tires mounted already. Just keep a close eye on your tire pressures.
 
Drove it to work, first time its left the garage since November..

IMG-20110511-00051.jpg
 
Anyone have any good links to gauge installs? Tips perhaps? Been searching for the past few days, and I'm getting burnt out. lol

I have Prosport water temp and voltmeter gauges to install. I've read some people using a wire from the ignition harness, dimmer switch, and cig lighter. Others use the radio wires...and I've found a bunch of people using fuse taps at the block and running all wires there, except ground. Or is this just one of those "more than 1 ways to skin a cat" scenarios?
 
Yea ill PM you in a bit. Besides the actual sensors, there are many locations to hook up the wire to.

Later today im going to put in the SpeedCircuit straight neck hose kit, Change my belts out, and take off the supercharger. (Maybe) lol
 
Thats why I figured I would tell you lol and I wasnt talking about a stock tpms system....im sure theres an aftermarket option out there somewhere.
But I wouldnt worry about it now that you have the tires mounted already. Just keep a close eye on your tire pressures.

Thanks. I'll try and remember to keep an eye on it.
 
Nothing as the wife has the keys for yet another day. On the bright side she has been allowed to sleep in the garage at night for the last week. :)

Return to stock and buy another one in better shape :)

Oh, I've thought about that but much easier said then done. I'd have to source one from the deep South to avoid any issues with 'cancer'. I did find a local dealer with an 04 Mazda6 wagon on the lot....$8900 with 72K...hmmmmm

Why are used ones so much out there!? Because of the "low" mileage? Because from what everyone else was saying, and as I'm sure you read in my thread, that means little with these cars. I decided to not make that a buying point when I was looking for an engine. I lucked out and made a deal with Evan, but I still wouldn't pay more than $1000 for a motor.

Cheapest I found around here was LKQ that we deal with at work, $700/123K on it. If we lived closer, labor would be almost non existant! Between me and Evan, we could have you back on the road in a few days tops!

The higher prices I posted are for a remanufactured engine. So I could pay close to double over a used engine but have the piece of mind that the engine has been torn down and all wear parts have been replaced and everything specd to new + in most cases a 3yr/unlimited mile warranty. With a used engine all I really know is that they've confirmed the engine ran fine before being removed from the car and again before leaving their shop and a 90 day warranty. Your situation was unique in that you found one from a guy that is trustworthy and you know maintenance has been done and such. I could pay $1000 for an engine with 80+K miles and have no idea what the history is.... Speedcircuit is on my list of companies to call if/when I replace the engine as well since they can acquire used ones or WTH maybe I'll go fully forged? (evil)

Truth. Jeff, you're always welcome to bring it out here and we can swap the motor at my place.

Thanks guys and noted. So would 24hrs notice be enough to tell you an engine is being delivered to your house? hahahaha

What's wrong with your engine?

And damn that's a strict inspection if you can't have any holes :S

At the moment it's more speculation than anything and me trying to run all scenarios thru my head. Timing belt/water pump/etc need to be replaced and I may have a rear main seal leak, key word being 'may'. That said, I'm looking at a minimum of $1500 for those two things to be done + the $700 in rust repairs. So my thought process is do I drop $1500 to fix those two things on an engine with 147K miles in hopes that nothing else major goes shortly after or do I spend a thousand or so more and get a reman. engine with basically zero miles and a nice warranty....then I just have to hope that the rust stays at bay. I'd hate like hell to drop what the car is worth into it and have it running great only to have the damn body start to rust away and nickel and dime me with repairs.

Yeah...I just found that out a few months ago...nice little kick-in-the-pants!
 
Man, a lot of guys dealing with rust on the forum. Makes me feel lucky. Here in Colorado, its really dry most of the time so it helps preserve almost everything but hoses, rubber, and some plastic. The sun is intense here, so that takes a toll, but rust is wayyyy worse.
 
Yeah...rust is a pain in the ass and it's the nature of the beast that is compounding my decision. I love the P5 and would hate parting ways but knowing I could drop 3k into the car and still have rust that shows up months later would suck. Of course, it could be small enough and be manageable but how much small rust would appear...so on and so on.

Good call Ryan but gotta learn first and then I'd have to teach the wife. Found a really nice 2000 SE Miata locally last night...mmmmmmm Not sure if that makes much practical sense for a second family car though. ;)

http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?ct=u&car_id=298466033&dealer_id=57803786&car_year=2000&systime=&doors=&model=MIATA&search_lang=en&start_year=2000&body_style=CONVERT&keywordsfyc=&keywordsrep=&highlightFirstMakeModel=&search_type=used&distance=100&min_price=&rdm=1305124913492&drive=&marketZipError=false&advanced=&fuel=&keywords_display=&lastBeginningStartYear=1981&end_year=2003&showZipError=y&make2=&certified=&engine=&page_location=findacar%3A%3Aispsearchform&body_code=1&transmission=&default_sort=priceDESC&max_mileage=&color=&address=18045&sort_type=priceDESC&max_price=&awsp=false&make=MAZDA&seller_type=b&num_records=25&cardist=25&standard=false
 
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