What have you done to your MSP today?

personally i have no idea, but i like the sound lol, idk why. better then the high pitched queef of typical BOVs and better then my turboxs' sneeze
 
Maybe ill change the vac source so it isnt shared with the atp. Also find a clamp small enough for the valves vac line ha.
 
you can zip tie vac lines with a good tie, they don't see positive pressure so they shouldn't pop off which is why you'd use a clamp to hold on a pressurized line.
 
thats just a normal hks valve on a protege. They cant react fast enough on our cars for some reason. Only way i ever got mine to fully open and completely eliminate flutter was to drill a tiny hole between the 2 chambers so it would equalize the pressure faster and open the valve with out any surge/flutter.
 
you can zip tie vac lines with a good tie, they don't see positive pressure so they shouldn't pop off which is why you'd use a clamp to hold on a pressurized line.

if you have them plumbed to the intake, they do see pressure.

thats just a normal hks valve on a protege. They cant react fast enough on our cars for some reason. Only way i ever got mine to fully open and completely eliminate flutter was to drill a tiny hole between the 2 chambers so it would equalize the pressure faster and open the valve with out any surge/flutter.

Mine doesn't do that, unfortionately the only video I have of my car doesn't have even the faintest sound of the BOV in it.
 
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I have a question on ECU wiring. I'm getting a P0335 when hooking in my recently installed AEM F/IC. Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Malfunction. Obviously the problem lies within the crankshaft sensor wires, but the question is how do I know which needs switched where? To explain a little better, there are 4 wires coming from the FIC harness that relate to the crankshaft sensor. They are labeled as such:

CRK Mag0 +
CRK Mag0 -
CRK Mag1 +
CRK Mag1 -

The ECU pins that are used are #21 and #22. I've looked in my shop manual and tried searching online but can't find anything that tells me which ECU pin is the positive and which is the negative, or which is input/output. Any thoughts?
 
Turn your car on and multimeter to some ground location will tell you polarity
 
i dont know what the voltages are, but if you set the multimeter to +12v, put the black on a ground point red on the pin in question it will tell you. it will read a positive or negative number. if it reads nothing, its probably the ground.
of course, you have to supply power to the unit . so putting the car in acc mode should work.


im gonna try re-sorting some of my vac hoses out to see if it helps and i might change to an oiled foam filter. otherwise, ill have to see if my stock bpv will fit with my pipes the way they are. or i guess i could track down a second blow off valve to use as a bypass.
 
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that sounds normal to me man...mine flutters at low boost making the turkey sound,
but sounds like when u kinda get on it, it works like it should
 
it just sounds funny when your just putting around and shifting in traffic...
 
Got my stage 1 exedy installed along with a new throttle body. Working on getting the J&S wired up in time to get the car tuned on the dyno.
 
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