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Ok I have a problem I launched my car it bogged so badly to the point of almost stalling and then it took off, this is all after installing the ssafc. Have set it at 1.1 overpressure and over 6000rpm. Can someone help me? I was going to set my over pressure to minus 20 and or set the over rpm to 1800rpm is this good or bad? Thank you in advance.
 
my problem has been fixed, the tune needed to be changed drastically, and the tune HondaEat-R would not work with the new MAF, i put on the 14 psi tune and its pretty accurate, just need to decrease some gas in low rpm and add some in high =]
 
paniaguae640 said:
Ok I have a problem I launched my car it bogged so badly to the point of almost stalling and then it took off, this is all after installing the ssafc. Have set it at 1.1 overpressure and over 6000rpm. Can someone help me? I was going to set my over pressure to minus 20 and or set the over rpm to 1800rpm is this good or bad? Thank you in advance.
Click to expand...

do you have wideband and did it show you went real lean when it bogged? if so i know a pretty affective way around this
 
dont change the tune until about 1.5-2 psi, (so .5, 1, and 1.5 psi at least leave them at 10) thats what worked with my previous tune, even when mashing the pedal it woundlt lean out on me, kinda found it out by accident, becuase i loaded a different tune, then saw it did that and combined that aspect of the bad tune i applied with my previous tune. i still have to apply it to my current tune (the 14 psi tune on the first page) it works almost perfect with my mods but it tells ssafc to start changing tune at .5 psi which makes it lean out no matter how softly i go into boost.
 
^^ hmm that's strange, because usually the problem is it being too rich.. but then again, completely different setups as far as mods go
 
so i was doing some further tuning today and i noticed that my AFRs in 2nd gear and 3rd gear are VERY different, in 2nd i was getting perfect 11.5-12 AFRs in boost but in third i get a whole number leaner, it was going 12.5-13 WTF! i know your supposed to tune to 3rd gear but should it really be a whole point different? what if im boosting in 4th? and also that means 1st gear is going to be like stock tune rich! anyone else notice this?
 
you're looking at that as a bad thing, and if you really think about it, you WANT to make less power (and more safety) in 1st gear anyway... otherwise you're just going to have traction issues. Thats exactly why the stock ECU has the fuel trims set like it does. If you don't like that, you're going to need a LOT more powerful tuning solution than ANY piggyback is going to give you.
 
but im saying if i try to boost in 4th gear its going to give me really lean afrs, thats my main concern. rich is fine, its safe, its the zoom zoom boom i dont want lol, and i deff dont want to tune the car to 4th gear cuz then 2nd will also be like stock tune!!
 
ok well what is the afr you want to be at WOT cause i read on a wibsite that they found out the the best are to be is at 12.8 to 13.2 ???? what do you guys think
 
Hey has anybody here had problems with the 440 maps? i put 440's in my friends car the other day, we loaded the maps and they all didnt really work very good at all, the car kept like hesitating and stuttering really bad after he let out the clutch in between shifts and the AFR's where like constantly in the 10's in boost
 
yea lol we put the 440's in and then came on here looking for a basic 440 map to run but all of them were completely different, some would have 9.6 up to 8 psi, another had 8.8 up to 7psi, it didnt really make sense

the one that had the 8.8s all the way up to 7psi was the best map out of all of them but it still bogged down right after he shifted, sounded like he had a 2step or something

edit: and just fyi, i beleive they were wrx 440's, brand new o rings
 
yea def. need to pull more fuel, and the numbers i was talking about werent the AFR's, i was talking about the fuel map...just to clear things up a bit

and just looked at the maps so i could tell you which ones which, the mazdaspeed 14psi map worked the best out of all of them, the 440 map, SUCKED, it was really bad

we couldnt get any map to work close to good so we just put the stock injectors back in and loaded the superstock map back up until we could figure out why it was doing that
 
well to put it blatantly, those maps are made for those individual's cars.. not anyone elses.. so that's just a starting point for anyone else.. the rest of the work for tuning is up to you.. then if you like you can load that map up, with your/your friends mods and all that...also it depends on where the person lives and temp.. all sorts of things.. so put them back in, load the mazdaspeed 14psi map, and start doing so datalogging until you get less/no bogging and good afrs.. it will take time but you can always pay someone $500 to dyno tune it.. but I'd rather save my money
 
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