What have you done to your Mazda6 today?

Thats the thing. Whats blue is what I need to connect the MAF area since it goes to 3" and the rest is 2.5". I'm not too worried about it. As long as I get it all together and setup and running. I can always come back later and swap out the couplers to black ones. Which I will have to go on ebay and order each one individually because cxracing doesn't offer these in any other color but blue.

Speed J23- To answer the question. This is a better setup than draw through. The car will measure exactly what is going into the engine as it gets boosted. You can also run it vta with no problems as it will be before the MAF sensor. It also lets you run a custom intake since it won't effect fuel trims.

In my case. I will be moving the battery to the trunk. Then this will give me room to do away with my turbo inlet hose which is just over 2" in diamter. Then I will run a 3" pipe as a straight short ram and connect my filter onto that. I will have to come off the turb with a 45 degree 2"-3" reducer. then connect a 3" pipe onto that which the pipe will have a 45 degree angle. I know that wiring harness will be a issue with coming straight off the turbo. Thats why I ordered a 45 degree pipe and coupler just in case I can't go straight out. I still need to find something where I can drill a hole in the turbo inlet to be able to tap that vacuum line to the wastegate for.

Not to mention the car is going to sound nice with the HKS V3. :)
 
Ok then Taylor. Once you get the blue ones on, wrap them w/ black electrical tape, then at each end secure the provided fastners.
There you go...black couplers for even less than you can imagine...plus just about everyone has black electrical tape laying around.
$1 fix.
 
lol. Are you being serious? I was thinking just spray painting them..j/k I am already going to take off all the boost tubes and paint them wrinkle black.
 
lol. Are you being serious? I was thinking just spray painting them..j/k I am already going to take off all the boost tubes and paint them wrinkle black.

Yeah I was just kidding.
(sadbanana)
Painting is an option though lol.
 
I wouldn't recommend painting any kind of hoses, rubber or otherwise. The paint will cause the layers of hose to break down and fail. Seen it a lot of times on ship, usually on flexible couplers on salt water lines. Of course they always fail when you don't have a spare.
 
Chief, we were def making 2 jokes in a row up above lol.

Ninja edit...you still deployed?
 
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lol...i don't even officially have my Speed yet.
And...I want black ones also....the P5 was white/black.
Panda 2!
 
Anyone know what it feels like if your plugs are fouling? Might be in my head but I feel a slight hesitation / buck in 1st-3rd right around 2800 rpm. Its very slight and might just be in my head. This is under DD conditions nowhere near boost. About -10mmHg.

No knock, no CEL's, A/F's are fine . . . . guess im just paranoid.
 
Anyone know what it feels like if your plugs are fouling? Might be in my head but I feel a slight hesitation / buck in 1st-3rd right around 2800 rpm. Its very slight and might just be in my head. This is under DD conditions nowhere near boost. About -10mmHg.

No knock, no CEL's, A/F's are fine . . . . guess im just paranoid.
 
Check plugs & lines for possible vacuum leak.
Also, I was reading this morning about pulling the spring from the coils and stretching them out...

from the other forum:
here is a short cut/pasted part of his initial post
So I set a mission for myself today when I got off work. Figure out why the hell my car is sputtering at wot.
Then i started thinking about my previous cars and what if any problems were similar to this and what it took to fix it. I remembered that once i hit about 28psi in my evo it would do something very similar. It was spark blowing out. Well the fix for that was new plugs and taking apart the stock coils and stretching the spring inside each individual coil so that you could get a better contact. So on a wim I decided to give it a try. I pulled apart each coil and stretched the spring just a little. Enough to where it took a little bit of effort to get it back together. Put it all back together and went for a drive. TO MY SUPRISE IT DIDNT SPUTTER!!!!! So i turned the boost up to 18psi and still no sputter. Oh s*** did i stumble upon something or what? I was so stoked. Then for s**** I turned the boost up to 20psi and to my suprise still no sputter. So i headed home and put the ets tmic back on, and the sri. Went for some pulls and man the car is straight up MOBBING at 18-20psi. Air fuels were around 10.4 which means there is room for more. I cant wait to get my full turbo back on this hog and hit the dyno. The best part is it pulls all the way to redline and boost holds strong.

Im not saying this is gonna be a fix for everyone but it worked for me. Do me a favor if you are sputtering at wot, give this a try and tell me if it helps it.

Okay, I was thinking to myself that this simple mod would NOT correct my 2nd to 3rd gear WOT sputter >>> but it did!!!!

It took less than 10 minutes
I removed the 8mm hold down screws from the coil on plugs
you'll notice where the plastic and rubber meet about 3-4 inches from the bottom of the coil on plug. pull and twist to seperate the sleeve from the coil
there is a spring laying in there which is only held in place by these two pieces being pressed together
the spring is thin and tightly wound on both ends....leave the ends alone
concentrate on the center of the spring where it is think and heavily wound
I stretched mine 2-3 inches IN THE CENTER
so much that I had to crefully seat both ends in the coil/sleeve and "carefully" sandwich back together
I didn't disconnect the battery of even disconnect the coil on plugs from the harness to do this.
For those with TMIC's it will take 10 minutes + the time to remove your top mount IC
 
Chief, we were def making 2 jokes in a row up above lol.

Ninja edit...you still deployed?

Sorry, I'm a little slow lately. Comes from being on an old ship.

Technically I'm not deployed since I'm not military, but yeah, I'm still on the ship. Heading down to Nigeria for another load then hopefully I'll be getting off in the discharge port. Have a small pile of parts to put on the Speed (lots more on the wife's 8), I'll be posting some pictures of the new wheels once I get them on.
 
Been busy the past couple of days... haven't been on here in like a week! What's wrong with me!! Anyways... The test pipe, eyelids, and sharkfin came in today. :D Threw on the eyelids and sharkfin in bout 20 minutes. Gonna wait for a cooler day before I decide to get under the car and throw on the test pipe. Also, ordered a set of the rpm street springs :D. Just have been reading up, and more people seem to either love their rpm springs or went with the H & R's and wish they went with the rpm's. So they will be on the car soon. :)
 
After I got my new blue SU silicone recirc tube, and Cobb TIP to match the Cobb SRI, I installed those, and then the new Perrin Pro EBCS last week.

Cobb2.jpg


SUBOVTube1sm.jpg


Cobbintakesm.jpg



Perrintubing1-1.jpg
 
Thanks JDM. Ill check my plugs / coils when I get a chance. Boost is fine. If anything I have troubles with over-boosting / boost creep.
 
Lookin fresh Douge.



Cleaned my car today at the car wash. Went out to my usual location and shot a video. Did 1 launch on the vid. I may have it posted up by tonight.
 
Lookin fresh Douge.



Cleaned my car today at the car wash. Went out to my usual location and shot a video. Did 1 launch on the vid. I may have it posted up by tonight.

Thanks Bro!! You BETTER have those clips posted up on here by tonight Holme-Slice!!

(braindead (stoned)
 
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It only works once you pull the ebrake once you get moving and resets when it comes to a stop. I just ran a switch to ground out the ebrake to make the car think that its pulled.

Here is a still frame at launch. :)

4672991116_497ed1660b_b.jpg
 

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