Hypertech reflash users or anyone wondering about 1step colder plugs or not chime in

[spdjnke]

Hey all,

Just thought I'd give you guys some thoughts on what I think about the different plugs and what impressions I have gotten from them with my Hypertech reflash.

Denso Iridium ITV 22 (1 step colder) .028 Gap

* Engine Runs smoother and quieter
* Throttle response is immediate.
* Bottom end power is amazing, and the thrust factor right at 3K is
awesome, but flattens out after 4500 rpm. Top end just feels flat.
* Hard to describe but feels like engine glides at steady crusing speed
* Fuel saving 1 extra mpg

Denso Iridium ITV 20 (stock heat range) .030 Gap

* Review coming soon.

Stock Plug

* Engine runs rougher and noisier
* Bottom end punch cannot compare to 1 step colder plugs
* Throttle response if back to it's usual delay
* Top End power is back and pulls hard.
* Fuel consumption is -2 mpg


So based on this experience, I'm feeling that if I go with Stock Heat range Denso iridium plugs, I should get low end response as the ITV 22's (hopefully)but get the top end power like I did with stock plugs, at least in theory that is. What do you all think?

 

[Remspeed3]

Why do you insist on running a colder plug when the car was tuned for the stock plugs? Hypertech even explained this to you, to me it only makes since to go with the OG equipment if thats what they say to use, unless you have more mods than what they specify using...intake/ CBE/stock DP w/ both cats/ stock BPV.

 

[spdjnke]

Why do you insist on running a colder plug when the car was tuned for the stock plugs? Hypertech even explained this to you, to me it only makes since to go with the OG equipment if thats what they say to use, unless you have more mods than what they specify using...intake/ CBE/stock DP w/ both cats/ stock BPV.

I got them to try only to see if it really makes a difference, 1 step colder plugs is understood only if you run +100 hp or high boost from stock, but it didn't hurt so why not.

 

[Remspeed3]

I got them to try only to see if it really makes a difference, 1 step colder plugs is understood only if you run +100 hp or high boost from stock, but it didn't hurt so why not.

You probably need to upgrade your intercooler next...after looking at it myself it doesn't look as if it could handle more boost.

 

[Darth Vader]

You get to compare apples to oranges when you change the gap. .028" (I'm pretty sure you mean this since .28 of an inch is pretty wide....) may not seem like a big diff to .030" but, the tighter gap will produce a smaller spark kernel more reliably, but the bigger gap is slightly more likely to light the mixture well, if it fires. So, you change a basic variable in spark plug performance and try to draw conclusions from that. Not too good science that.

 

[spdjnke]

Well I heard alot of people getting "blowout" if you gap larger then .028 with a 1 step colder plug, also read COBB's theory also, don't know if I necessary agree with it but I'm going to get a set of IVT20 that Denso recommends and gap them at stock .030-.035 and see what happens, it's all about the experiment and see what kind of outcome I get out of it, it's a very small price to pay to see if my theory is right.

 

[Darth Vader]

You risk blowout at over .028 on ANY plug when you raise the boost level. It is that simple. This isn't special or unusual in any way. Try a tight gap (No bigger than .030) with the ITV 20s.

In the end, you're right, you need to try stuff out a bit when you modify. That's the name of the game. Hell, we used to make our own performance parts back when I started in this game.

 

[spdjnke]

You risk blowout at over .028 on ANY plug when you raise the boost level. It is that simple. This isn't special or unusual in any way. Try a tight gap (No bigger than .030) with the ITV 20s.

In the end, you're right, you need to try stuff out a bit when you modify. That's the name of the game. Hell, we used to make our own performance parts back when I started in this game.

You know what's strange is when you order the ITV20's they come pre-gapped from Denso at .044 and it states that's stock gap, but from all my online research stock gap is .030-.035 so I wonder why they say .044, or maybe thats for the regular 3 model.?

 

[Darth Vader]

Yep, for the regular 3 and many other users of the same plug. The cylinder pressure is just tons lower in an NA application and wide gaps are good for emissions, cause they light off lean mixtures well.

 

[MSMS3]

Just gap the plugs at no greater than .030. Do it. Try that and seriously consider going down to .028. This is going to be the right gap range on either the stock plugs or one step colder plugs if you are running any boost higher than stock.

 

[spdjnke]

Hey Bro, you've wrote alot of very informative things on the Hypertech thread, I have to say you are very technical and very specific on what you talk about, so I would like to ask what your thoughts are to this, as you know Chris @ Hypertech said with their reflash at the most at 6k they boost at 18psi and then drop to 14psi to reduce air temps, so would you say stay with Iridium plugs @ stock temps or stick with the 1 step colder? and why? since all research I've done said 1 step colder for every 75-100hp increase, but they don't say awhole lot about how many PSI is proper for 1 step colder.?

Just gap the plugs at no greater than .030. Do it. Try that and seriously consider going down to .028. This is going to be the right gap range on either the stock plugs or one step colder plugs if you are running any boost higher than stock.

 

[meicalnissyen]

You risk blowout at over .028 on ANY plug when you raise the boost level. It is that simple. This isn't special or unusual in any way. Try a tight gap (No bigger than .030) with the ITV 20s.

In the end, you're right, you need to try stuff out a bit when you modify. That's the name of the game. Hell, we used to make our own performance parts back when I started in this game.

Make yur own performance parts,?? Why thats just plum crazy that is.

like when I rubbed a lawnmower engine gokart's head on the sidewalk for a bit to boost the compression ratio. (hey, I was 12)

Thank God I did't have 1 step colder plugs to regap

I'da gone plum loco

 

[meicalnissyen]

Just gap the plugs at no greater than .030. Do it. Try that and seriously consider going down to .028. This is going to be the right gap range on either the stock plugs or one step colder plugs if you are running any boost higher than stock.

Are you sure? I heard you need to reduce the gap 0.0003 every 43 HP increase

 

[spdjnke]

I hope your kidding.

 

[MSMS3]

Are you sure? I heard you need to reduce the gap 0.0003 every 43 HP increase

Funny, but not constructive.

Yes, slight reducitions in plug gap are pretty much a standard means of "tuning" on high pressure turbocharged applications. In competition settings dyno runs are made with different plug gaps to optimize performance and yes, two thousands of an inch can make a difference. There are more heavily modded guys on the "other" forum finding that .026" works better for them. These are pretty hard core guys with a lot of experience with this engine. That gap is probably too tight for OP's mods.

Oh, and don't get me started on tuning by plug inspection, but yes you can if you have the capability of pulling the plugs at the track right after a run. You can learn a lot about engine performance from the condition and color of each part of the plug that is in the combustion chamber by looking at the plug right after shutdown, if you know what you are looking at. This, in and of itself, can lead to a small adjustment in gap.

 

[MSMS3]

Hey Bro, you've wrote alot of very informative things on the Hypertech thread, I have to say you are very technical and very specific on what you talk about, so I would like to ask what your thoughts are to this, as you know Chris @ Hypertech said with their reflash at the most at 6k they boost at 18psi and then drop to 14psi to reduce air temps, so would you say stay with Iridium plugs @ stock temps or stick with the 1 step colder? and why? since all research I've done said 1 step colder for every 75-100hp increase, but they don't say awhole lot about how many PSI is proper for 1 step colder.?

Look, I'm not an expert on this Hypetech product. It is becoming pretty clear to me that they have put a lot of R&D into the development of their tuner for our application. If they have done their development on the stock heat range plug, I'd stick with it. That is one less variable to deal with if you need product assistance from them.

Frankly, you want to run the hottest plug you can without burning the tip or getting into detonation and the coldest plug you can without fouling the tip. That is not a contradictory concept. the correct heat range falls into that sweet spot between those two extremes. It is helpful to go to a colder than stock plug only if you are running high enough boost or otherwise are producing enough more power that cylinder head temps are climbing and you are starting to see the engine pull timing due to impending detonation.

My mods, on stock tune, are right at the upper edge of stock heat range for optimal performance, so I went with one step colder plugs, just for a little protection against possoble detonation, and might be giving up a little performance for that piece of mind. By doing this I know I run some risk of fouling the plugs, but I run the car pretty hard and don't spend much time in low speed traffic jam type driving. I would probably do just as well with the stock heat range.

Back to my beginning comment. Use the range Hypertech recommends with its product, based on their R&D. At least get all your baseline datalogging and tuning adjustments done that way. Only after you have some good objective data and know that things are running the way they are intended and have driven the car for a while that way, so you know how it responds in different driving conditions, should you then consider trying a colder plug.

And don't change plug heat range and change to a different gap at the same time. When you make multiple changes and then test, measure, datalog, etc., you don't know which change in mods produced the change, for good or bad, with the performance.

I hope this is helpful.

 

[spdjnke]

Thank for the info I knew you would be able to properly comment on this matter, now the next question is, based on when I just removed the ITV22's yesterday the tip looked great however the porcelain (insulator) was perfectly bright white which seemed odd cuz from my understanding of proper burn, it should have a slight brown hue to it, which my stock plugs do. Pure white normally means over advanced ignition, timing, lean air mixture or even insufficient cooling system which from my DH I don't see at all. That was another reason why I went back to the stock plug to see what effects it would make to the drive ability and performance and sure enough it lost alot of the low end response but top end is back that's the strange part I haven't figured out yet. gap of the denso's was set at .028 I didn't measure the stock but I'm assuming from just looking at them probably .032 based on side by side comparison.

 

[Darth Vader]

White plugs that you just put in are pretty normal....


...and white colouring on high mile plugs is still normal, as modern ECUs control very much on the lean side at light load and part throttle. The art of plug reading is lost now because it's pretty difficult on a modern EFI car. In order to read a plug today, you'd need to do a plug chop, namely a full power boot then shut off the engine right after and coast to a stop, then pull the plugs and look. Difficult and risky that. This is why we have Dashhawks, EGT meters, wideband O2 sensors, etc. for tuning today.

 

[spdjnke]

maybe I didn't give it enough time, but I'm waiting for my set of ITV20's to try out so I'll see if my theory is right, if it's not well I guess I'll just have to decide on one of the 3 to stick with for good.

 

[MSMS3]

White plugs that you just put in are pretty normal....


...and white colouring on high mile plugs is still normal, as modern ECUs control very much on the lean side at light load and part throttle. The art of plug reading is lost now because it's pretty difficult on a modern EFI car. In order to read a plug today, you'd need to do a plug chop, namely a full power boot then shut off the engine right after and coast to a stop, then pull the plugs and look. Difficult and risky that. This is why we have Dashhawks, EGT meters, wideband O2 sensors, etc. for tuning today.

+1 on the white or whitish color being normal for this car with his mods.