What have you done to your MSP today?
- Thread starter baconbitz
- Start date
you do not want open ended lugs at all, i had them, they rust very quickly, every time you wash the car or it rains or you drive through a puddle water gets in the open end and sits there, nothing you do is enough to remove it all and it makes it rust out. Closed end lugs are the way to go
jonridinhi
Member
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- 2001 MP3/2010 MX5/1996 MILLINIA (donor)
What is the best place to buy a good set at or is all in personal preference, and sales?
justanothermp5
Banned
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- Rust Bucket
personal preference pretty much, some people have bad coatings and rust quicker then others though so u gotta make sure u dont buy ebay s***
Laser Blue
Member
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- '03.5 Mazdaspeed Protege / Laser Blue Mica
Go here http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/...-28424.html?osCsid=rjvtkuij0uba4qpvsusvcr94v2 and check these out. I've had Muteki's in the past and was very happy with them. I've seen them priced over $100 so these guys are priced pretty sharp. These are sorta on the deep (long) side compared to stock (stock are about 25mm long; these are about 35mm). Personally, I like the look of more exposed lugnut but not everyone does.
so the lugnuts i got, link a couple pages ago (orange ebay) fit great, stick out a little too much, but are light weight and look good. I can tell if they have to gon on and off alot, the orange will come off.
put on the summer wheels (RH's) and attemped but fail at putting on my gt spec stuff. Not enough time or power tools handy. Figured out my rattling from the front end was my driver's side endlink was loose at the strut. Tightened that and realizer my sway bar moves alot. The bracket on the driver's side sheared off and the sway bar is just resting the bushing and subframe? Whatever that part is. checked a couple sites and decided to go with universal greaseable bushings from energy suspension. $16 i figured i could atleast try.
put on the summer wheels (RH's) and attemped but fail at putting on my gt spec stuff. Not enough time or power tools handy. Figured out my rattling from the front end was my driver's side endlink was loose at the strut. Tightened that and realizer my sway bar moves alot. The bracket on the driver's side sheared off and the sway bar is just resting the bushing and subframe? Whatever that part is. checked a couple sites and decided to go with universal greaseable bushings from energy suspension. $16 i figured i could atleast try.
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Laser Blue
Member
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- '03.5 Mazdaspeed Protege / Laser Blue Mica
I got Dorman's in blue. It was a closeout deal... I got two full sets with locks and socket/keys for $50. This way I can trash a bunch of them and have lotsa spares!
greasable front swaybar bushings? that would be neat.
took out all the pillars, OS handles, dome light and headliner.... painted headliner black, pillars hammered black and the OS handles and dome light surround blue 
also i painted the stock msp seats (silver parts) blue ... later on ima hit that steering wheel and do the visors.
also i painted the stock msp seats (silver parts) blue ... later on ima hit that steering wheel and do the visors.jonridinhi
Member
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- 2001 MP3/2010 MX5/1996 MILLINIA (donor)
So which has a better coating? Muteki's or dorman's? I like the longer style but I do not want to have to buy more because the coating failed. I do not use impacts either just normal use from rotating them.
I'd go with Gorilla if you don't have to deal with rust. No, I don't have any pictures of the lugs installed. The look like every other black spline drive lug, but weigh like 2 grams a piece. One year with them on and other than some paint being scraped off from the key (I was warned this would happen) they still look great.
so i installed my yukib vac block last night. in the brake booster line of course. it all went great, minus the fact that i hit the one like 1/4 inch check valve in that line. ayone have a part #? it runs fine just when i go into boost, the brakes dont work right away. other than that it runs great
Ricktalife
Member
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- 2012 Subaru WRX
See that's why I didn't tap into the brake booster...I want my brakes to work.
I bought a set of Muteki closed-ends off of ebay that will be going on when I mount my new tires & wheels. Blue aluminum ftw!
The Muteki's I bought are supposed to be hard anodized, therefore shouldn't chip or anything. But I haven't even put them on, so I can let you know how they wear down the road...
Wagonbacker9
Member
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- 2004 'Hoe
scary...
I put the block in mine... just made sure I left a good 3" before the check valve. no issues, AND no turkey.
Ricktalife
Member
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- 2012 Subaru WRX
I'm sure it can be made to work, I just don't feel safe doing that.
Wagonbacker9
Member
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- 2004 'Hoe
compared to the other engine work I've done.... vac block in the brake booster was a joke:
and compared to guys who ripped down their blocks and went forged... everything I've done is a joke.
SpeedAdiction20
Member
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- 2003 MAZDASPEED Protege
ya, really all you have to do is press down and feel for the valve, it's pretty easy if you look for it, When I put in the 626 IM I used both of the break booster lines together, left 1 whole and cut 1 to fit correctly with the vac block, worked great, I had actually left the BB check valve in the line before the vac block by accident lol, it was running funny b/c of that, but cut it out, unfortunately, I didn't really care what happened so I ended up breaking it up when I cut it out, or I would have givin you mine, sorry... but ya the BB line is the way to go, super, super easy, clean, and much more reliable vac/boost levels and a nice dedicated line to the wga from IM, I highly recommend doing it, but just feel for it, you can't miss it (even with the padding on, if you want just cut that and slide it over if you want)
