What have you done to your MSP today?

I hit a pot hole the other day, and now I'm hearing a clunk when I hit the gas or brake hard. I'm guessing I have a broken mount. I'm looking to change out the rear and side mounts, which raised a question in my mind that I don't think I've ever seen addressed here... does anyone know what the durometer/hardness is on the stock mounts?
 
^very soft lol

Cylinders 1 & 3 (Is that right? 4 is farthest to the passenger side, right?? lol) are fired from the coilpacks, and then cylinders 2 & 4 (respectively) are "piggy backed" and triggered/controlled by the coil packs on 1 & 3.

nevvveeerrrmind

edit: just read what you put, i fail at reading lol carry on
 
Cylinders 1 & 3 (Is that right? 4 is farthest to the passenger side, right?? lol) are fired from the coilpacks, and then cylinders 2 & 4 (respectively) are "piggy backed" and triggered/controlled by the coil packs on 1 & 3.

Okay I had a feeling that's what they were but I wanted to make sure. So I've seen some guys put 4 coilpacks on..does that increase performance at all? Also do you have to modify anything else? I'm no longer using the plastic valve cover FYI.
 
Okay I had a feeling that's what they were but I wanted to make sure. So I've seen some guys put 4 coilpacks on..does that increase performance at all? Also do you have to modify anything else? I'm no longer using the plastic valve cover FYI.

4 coilpacks? It's very common to do the 1.8L swap and remove the 2 coilpacks and just have 4 regular wires... I don't think I've heard of anyone running a 4 coil pack setup.
 
4 coilpacks? It's very common to do the 1.8L swap and remove the 2 coilpacks and just have 4 regular wires... I don't think I've heard of anyone running a 4 coil pack setup.

Oh that must have been what I saw then. Because there was 1 wire from each cylinder. Are they universal fit for all 3rd gens and is there anything else you have to change?
 
valve cover needs to be changed to a 1.8l or to a 2000+ 626 valve cover
besides that you need to buy the coils and wires from mazda or advanced auto or something

its freaking expensive, not worth it IMO
 
I ran outside during my lunch break and swapped out a broken left rear seat belt. I also removed the center belt/buckle since nobody would be foolish enough to sit there.
 
I hit a pot hole the other day, and now I'm hearing a clunk when I hit the gas or brake hard. I'm guessing I have a broken mount. I'm looking to change out the rear and side mounts, which raised a question in my mind that I don't think I've ever seen addressed here... does anyone know what the durometer/hardness is on the stock mounts?

If someone has the answer, I'd sure like to know it.
 
If someone has the answer, I'd sure like to know it.

The stock mounts aren't solid, they have holes so I don't know if it would be possible to get an accurate durometer measurement on them... But if I had to guess, I would say probly ~20. At least as a comparative measurement to the AWR mounts or something.

Also, durometer measurements are only accurate when comparing similar diameter bushings, as a smaller diameter bushing will be stiffer than a larger diameter bushing of the same Durometer.
 
CDM headlights on the car and looking badass, though I have no low-beams right now since someone sent me the wrong harness...

(Greg)

Picking up the right stuff tomorrow.
 
popped ANOTHER driver side hid bulb... in like.. 4 months..
 
CDM headlights on the car and looking badass, though I have no low-beams right now since someone sent me the wrong harness...

(Greg)

Picking up the right stuff tomorrow.

Your CDM's will be no match for my retrofitted USDM's (hah)

Once I figure out what the hell I want them to look like hahah.
 

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