AFC-SplitSecond PSC1 Map Library

Okay so I really don't understand why even though I'm running the stocksupermap, I still get 10.0 when I try to hit the gas. Could somebody just take a screenshot of their settings for me so I can compare and see if I have anything screwed up?

If your telling me you hit 10 AFR's on the supermap...you either need to adjust your overpressure or your AFC is not working.

Have you succesfully connected to AFC yet? Cause no offense but your all over the place....forget tuning right now and make sure the AFC is working.

How you know this for sure is 2 things...can you connect and the second is do you see the AFC take over at the set overpressure setting? Set your overpressure to +1psi....watch your wideband...it will probably go into the 10's until 1-2psi then it should climb to about 11.5-12AFR.

Please confirm this please....no use tapping into wires etc. Just trying to help man.
 
If your telling me you hit 10 AFR's on the supermap...you either need to adjust your overpressure or your AFC is not working.

I talked to Ken at PG and he talked to a Mark at SS and they basically told me to check the connections and settings.

Have you succesfully connected to AFC yet? Cause no offense but your all over the place....forget tuning right now and make sure the AFC is working.

Well if you mean connected on my computer yes I have. It lets me write data to the ECU and all that jazz but it just doesn't seem like it's really working at all. I just loaded the FMIC map to see if it would make a difference but at idle I got 17's so I turned the car off immediately and switched back.

How you know this for sure is 2 things...can you connect and the second is do you see the AFC take over at the set overpressure setting? Set your overpressure to +1psi....watch your wideband...it will probably go into the 10's until 1-2psi then it should climb to about 11.5-12AFR.

I'll try that out, but now I've got the ABS light on because I ****** with the wrong wire on my ECU so I'll just have to get a tech to look at it.

Please confirm this please....no use tapping into wires etc. Just trying to help man.

Yea I know you guys all try to help me and I'm thankful for that but I really need somebody next to me that can help and it's just ******* impossible with all the idiots and assholes that are around here. I guess I'll just have to toss out a couple hundred to a local shop I know that has a dyno. That's the only way I can get this s*** fixed and it's rediculous.
 
Oh I didn't know he was forged already lol. Well ignore the boost comment then.

I had the same prob, With my only mods being a fmic and the ss afc, along with the minor must haves like exhaust and intake and I had to lean out alot across the board to get rid of the 10's.
 
Can someone confirm if this issue of mine is normal, I noticed that its fairly straight forward getting the a/f ratio that you want BUT!.......When I tune I usually try to make a single gear pull to avoid the confusion of shifting changes, and its usually at wide open throttle. My problem is that at wide open throttle I have the results Im looking for, anywhere from 11.5-11.9 for the most part. But at half or quarter throttle as soon as I let it climb into boost I read to lean like mid 12's or the occassional 13.1 or so. Whats up with that?? Does anyone know if this is normal? There seems to be no way around it...if I adjust the a/f ratio at half to quarter throttle I mess up my full throttle readings??? I hate seeing those 12's in boost when Im easy on the gas!
 
If you're getting mid 12's when accelerating easy and mid 11's when you're getting on it then I want your tune!
 
Well if you mean connected on my computer yes I have. It lets me write data to the ECU and all that jazz but it just doesn't seem like it's really working at all. I just loaded the FMIC map to see if it would make a difference but at idle I got 17's so I turned the car off immediately and switched back.

Alright so you can load a map but your not convinced it's working? Ok, I would forget about changing maps for now. If you do though...do you wait a few minutes after loading a map and start the car? Either way, going really lean at idle on these cars every now and then it does happen...just blip the throttle a few times, it should stabilize.

What you wanna play with right now is your overpressure to confirm that it's working. So I would run the supermap...set the overpressure to +1psi.

Go to your map...the colomns in the vauum should be all 10's until 0 vac ****now this is were I would edit....put the .5psi colomn to 9.9...then 1psi colomn to 9.9.....then the 1.5psi column to 9.8....then from 2psi to 4psi colomn set it to 9.7. Leave the rest of the supermap as is. So try this...edit everything, then load the map...wait 2-3 minutes and start the car.

Go for a spin...watch your wideband as you do a 3rd pull until 4500rpm is enough at half throttle. The wideband should be all bouncy until you cross the 2psi where you should see it go from 13-14's AFR to I'm guessing in the mid to high 11's AFR.

The point is you wanna is if the AFC is working. If you notice while doing a 3rd gear pull that your wideband is still pegged in the 10 AFR throughout....something is wrong.

Try this please.. forget datalogging for now...put the wires you touched back the way they were.
 
@ Jaysanooch: Alright I will try that out. Whenever I write to the ECU I turn the key back to off for about 5 seconds because I think that's what the instructions said. I haven't changed any values yet but I will try those changes. I've been told not to really change anything until I can datalog but I'll give it a shot.
 
@ Jaysanooch: Alright I will try that out. Whenever I write to the ECU I turn the key back to off for about 5 seconds because I think that's what the instructions said. I haven't changed any values yet but I will try those changes. I've been told not to really change anything until I can datalog but I'll give it a shot.

Good...ya change the values to see it works. Don't worry about the values in that area of boost cause it happens so fast.
 
Hey everyone I'm relatively new to this forum and really new to tuning engines and turbos and stuff so sorry if I sound like a newb, its because I am.

I am the proud FOURTH OWNER owner of a 2003.5 MSP #1250
Being the 4th owner I'm not 100% sure exactly what is done to my car but I can tell you what I know.

Perrin 3" exhaust with Magnaflow 3" High flow CAT (Having the CAT installed on Tuesday to lessen the back-firing and reduce noise)
Injen CAI
Split-sec PSC1-020E
GReddy BOV type RS
Perrin Fuel rail
Nikki (2) INP-783 and (2) INP-782 fuel injectors Both rated at 14.2 ohm 290cc@3bar
Hard pipes to and from stock IC
don't know about the spark plugs (I really need a good socket set)

according to my auto-meter pro comp ultra-lite boost gauge I hit about 10-12psi (which the more I read about this stuff the more that scares me)

I just downloaded the R4 software the other day (from this site. Thanks) and today uploaded the maps from my PSC1. Unfortunately for me Map A is ALL 10 and Map B is ALL 0. I don't think this is a good thing....HELP!

I would appreciate it a lot if someone could recommend one of he Maps posted on here.

I am assuming there is some way to control the boost on my car but I'm not sure how/where/what it is. Or is there a manual way to change the boost on the turbo itself?

If you need any other information just ask and ill try and figure it out

Thank You :D
 
Hey everyone I'm relatively new to this forum and really new to tuning engines and turbos and stuff so sorry if I sound like a newb, its because I am.

I am the proud FOURTH OWNER owner of a 2003.5 MSP #1250
Being the 4th owner I'm not 100% sure exactly what is done to my car but I can tell you what I know.

Perrin 3" exhaust with Magnaflow 3" High flow CAT (Having the CAT installed on Tuesday to lessen the back-firing and reduce noise)
Injen CAI
Split-sec PSC1-020E
GReddy BOV type RS
Perrin Fuel rail
Nikki (2) INP-783 and (2) INP-782 fuel injectors Both rated at 14.2 ohm 290cc@3bar
Hard pipes to and from stock IC
don't know about the spark plugs (I really need a good socket set)

according to my auto-meter pro comp ultra-lite boost gauge I hit about 10-12psi (which the more I read about this stuff the more that scares me)

I just downloaded the R4 software the other day (from this site. Thanks) and today uploaded the maps from my PSC1. Unfortunately for me Map A is ALL 10 and Map B is ALL 0. I don't think this is a good thing....HELP!

I would appreciate it a lot if someone could recommend one of he Maps posted on here.

I am assuming there is some way to control the boost on my car but I'm not sure how/where/what it is. Or is there a manual way to change the boost on the turbo itself?

If you need any other information just ask and ill try and figure it out

Thank You :D

First off...STOP! dont tune nor attempt to increase boost untill you do some reading, and alot of it. This thread is a good place to start if you wanna really learn your ss afc. Secondly the 10's on your map layout means the signal isnt being modified from the ecu. And leave map B alone its worthless to you unless you had the timing version which you dont which is why you see all 0's.
 
What map were you running prior?

I made it from the stocksupermap. Basically just a lot of leaning out across the board. And a little adding fuel at higher rpm's but I tried to make so many fine adjustments such as the 2-5 psi range and while I managed to pull major power from the tune I got hesitation here and there. So I did save it but Im gonna run the pig rich stock one for a day or two till I can try to make a very similar map but this time I plan to leave the mid boost range alone cuz it goes from 1-7 psi in a second anyways
 
ok reading will/am doing
1. I asked about the boost control to turn it DOWN until I can do a few more mods to make it safe to have it that high because isn't is bad for my car to be pushing 12psi without: better SMIC, Bigger fuel injectors, and other things that i will probably learn about. Also any AFR/Boost Guages better than Auto meter preferably digital?
2. Wouldn't it be a good thing to get a map that would increase how rich i might be running to reduce possible engine damage? or does it or will the ECU run rich stock or when it senses increased boost?

thanks
 
boost controllers are not capable of lowering boost to below what the WGA spring is tuned for

tuning a car more rich is safer, at the cost of power. stock, these cars run pig rich, so if you want it more rich, a tuner is unnecessary.
 
ok reading will/am doing
1. I asked about the boost control to turn it DOWN until I can do a few more mods to make it safe to have it that high because isn't is bad for my car to be pushing 12psi without: better SMIC, Bigger fuel injectors, and other things that i will probably learn about. Also any AFR/Boost Guages better than Auto meter preferably digital?
2. Wouldn't it be a good thing to get a map that would increase how rich i might be running to reduce possible engine damage? or does it or will the ECU run rich stock or when it senses increased boost?

thanks

just run the stock super map that comes preloaded on the unit. Its not much better than stock in terms of running rich. When I ran the stock map I got anywere from 10.0 to 10.8 a/f ratio. Once I got into the tuning aspect of it and made countless runs at it, I now make a a/f ratio of 11.8 on average at WOT and I have a perfect idle mixture. Its amazing the power that will come out of your car with a proper tune. My buddy has a msp that I drove the other day and bummer....cuz these things are really really slow on a stock setup. I had skateboards faster than his car. Im trying to inspire him to work towards some power.
 

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