thanks speedadiction20 for taking the time to help. I have some 440's to but havent put them in cuz I dont need another thing to work the kinks out of right now. I know the ss afc is self tunable but Im starting to give up and might just pay for dyno time. The only time my car runs smooth is at very light throttle. Once I dig into it it just lags like a b****. I have a love hate thing with my car now. More so on the ******* hating it side. I treat it like gold and maintain it to the max and this is the way it treats me. F*CKING PEICE O s***
AFC-SplitSecond PSC1 Map Library
- Thread starter lcruz64
- Start date
SpeedAdiction20
Member
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- 2003 MAZDASPEED Protege
lol well I'm sorry to hear that, I get like that every once and a while, especially when last summer my exhaust mani was leaking like crazy and throwing everything off all the time, I did notice that with different temps it will throw the afrs off, but I think I remember it lagging like what you are talking about a while back, I want to say it was before .. oh actually do you happen to have an EBC? if so I remember that the way I had it set up, it was sometimes too sensitive and really lagged like s*** and was just annoying as all hell, I just gave up on that, at least for a while, right now I have the 8psi tuned well.. for the most part, and this summer ill work on the 10psi, I just remember if I didn't have the settings correct it would lag like a b**** and then just spaz out, especially if it spiked and reduced it b/c of the limited I had on it.
if you don't have an EBC than maybe if you have a MBC, maybe the spring is weird, or I remember when my WGA blew on my old msp it was bad like that too, (but I think I remember you saying that you couldn't blow into it when you tested it right?), I couldn't tell it was blown until I manually tested it by trying to blow into the vac line, because it wasn't bad enough where I would notice it on the boost gauge if you could do a datalogg and upload the map with the log we could take a look at it, could help, never know, more info always helps
one more thing, I did notice that you said you have a fully stock msp kit but with FMIC and ssafc, a few things on the airflow could be screwing with your turbo and creating not really lag but more backup, I would look into getting an exhaust on there, it really really opens the car up, it just feels soo much nicer, or if anything just a midpipe is good too, that stock double CAT really restricts flow, and I guess that also means it's on stock boost, so nvm about the EBC or MBC lol, but check the wga again by trying to blow into it, should be rock solid. and also like I said before, most the "over pressure" to something like .5 or -1, try both and play around with that, I noticed that when I first tried to make the begining of the fuel map at like 1-2psi boost a little richer (because for me, the afrs were kinda lean at 1-2psi) it actually made it really rich, then really lean, and when I just leaned it out around 1.5-2psi to like 9.9 on the fuel map at low rpms, it actually brought the afrs down quicker, so I would just play around with the fine tuning in the beginning on the psi range, and watch carefully for that really super rich drop, and a quick lean spike right after that, and move the "over pressure" around until the lag between switching from closed loop to open loop becomes less noticeable, and go from there.
the car takes a tonn of patience, but after driving my Dodge stratus for the winter, I can't wait till i get back into my msp next weekend! lol just take small steps and don't over work it or it will just get worse usually
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your right, Im just annoyed. I do love the car. I actually dont have a boost controller of any sort. As far as uploading my tune I hacked mine up trying to figure out my issue. If my MAF was bad would my a/f ratio change? Im just trying to eliminate some stuff. Im gonna get another wga too. sucks to spend money when im not even sure if it will help but what else can I do. And yea the wga I got now presents itself as fine, holds boost and everything. Changing the tune around does alter the situation but no matter what the lagging feeling is somewhere to be found. By the way I noticed I operate at 230 degrees engine temp now as compared to when I was n/a and around 200 max. Is this increase in temp normal? And Im gonna eliminate my cat and go bigger first thing....Thanks! I had a idea that might have something to do with it as Im still running my 2 1/4 "
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SpeedAdiction20
Member
- :
- 2003 MAZDASPEED Protege
first, I'm not sure about the engine temps exactly but I would say that the higher engine temps is diffidently normal as far as an increase in temp from N/A, but other than that im not sure.
the wga, I would hold off on getting a new one just yet, because like you said it's more money, did you do the test to see if it's bad first?.. you take off the vac line going into the wga and blow into it, if you can't blow into it at all, and it's solid than your wga is fine, and I wouldn't waste money on a new one, at least not right now. the MAF being bad, I would think it would change the way the car deals with the incoming air, but I have not had personal experience with a bad MAF so not sure, I would save what map you have now tuned, and start again from the supermap and just go from there, but only make small changes to major areas first, I usually change the beginning of boost, and "over pressure" to something like -1, and the fuel at 3500 rpm, and higher, usually the problem areas, but just change a little bit at a time and leave it there for a few days before going back to it after you change it to be a little better afr.. but do the wga test thing and start from there
the wga, I would hold off on getting a new one just yet, because like you said it's more money, did you do the test to see if it's bad first?.. you take off the vac line going into the wga and blow into it, if you can't blow into it at all, and it's solid than your wga is fine, and I wouldn't waste money on a new one, at least not right now. the MAF being bad, I would think it would change the way the car deals with the incoming air, but I have not had personal experience with a bad MAF so not sure, I would save what map you have now tuned, and start again from the supermap and just go from there, but only make small changes to major areas first, I usually change the beginning of boost, and "over pressure" to something like -1, and the fuel at 3500 rpm, and higher, usually the problem areas, but just change a little bit at a time and leave it there for a few days before going back to it after you change it to be a little better afr.. but do the wga test thing and start from there
Ricktalife
Member
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- 2012 Subaru WRX
No the AFC does not include a boost controller. The unichip does but I've heard it is basically useless.
rickta is right, but...if you plan to up your boost your gonna want the ss afc to get the most out of it....trust. Just as an example me and my buddy played around the other day on a closed factory road and I smoke him no prob and he's got like 40k miles less than me on his car. Now heres the kick.....he's at 10 psi and Im only at the stock 6.5 - 7 and he's no mach for me with the only difference between our cars being I have a fmic and ss afc. He's running 10 psi stock with a SRI and aluminum IC piping. (not to mention my car isnt even fully running right) His is a 03.5 msp while mine is a 01 mp3 with the full msp kit.
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Ricktalife
Member
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- 2012 Subaru WRX
I hope your friend has some supporting mods? As in, bolt ons? Yea there are guys that claim they run 10psi daily without many mods and no problems, but the statistics show it is very risky on this motor unless you have full bolt ons and a tune.
he doesnt have as much as he should and isnt to informed as well as hard headed so it is what it is. He isnt much into his car as I'd like to see, his response to finding out he was much slower than me was he was gonna crank the boost even more. I know...boom eventually. Kinda sad though to blow a motor trying to keep up with a stock 7 psi....just get tuned. If you guys could see his car you'd hang your heads in shame. Its the nicest F*ckin msp Ive seen in person. Visualy mint inside and out in silver with like 59k on it
Ricktalife
Member
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- 2012 Subaru WRX
Lol so he has seen the mods you have and still thinks upping the boost is best? There may be no hope for him.
MP3Night
MS3,Mazda3,MSP
Oh okay thanks. I wasn't sure because I was not seeing it anywhere, but thought mine as well ask instead of looking like a moron when I put it in and be surprised. lol
Haha yeah man I hear, Thanks. I don't plan on upping the for awhile.
I've got my SS AFC on the way.
While I have it up I'm going to ask real quick, not to thread jack or anything, but
Do you or from anyone really have a good suggestion for a boost controller manual or electric?
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Laser Blue
Member
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- '03.5 Mazdaspeed Protege / Laser Blue Mica
This is the one I use and I recommend it. Its easy to use and has a set screw lock so others cant mess with your boost level. It nearly eliminated boost spikes for me. I run at 9 psi and it holds it there well. Costs about $80.00
SpeedAdiction20
Member
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- 2003 MAZDASPEED Protege
that one is good, I haven't used it but i've heard good things and it has some good features, I have used the JoeP MBC which is also good, a little cheaper but good, now I'm using a Greedy EBC that I got with the new car, works great, a little hard to tune at first but once you get use to it, it holds boost pretty well if you can tune it right, and you can switch from high and low boost, but if you don't plan to be switching boosts, go for an MBC, easy to use and reliable
Ricktalife
Member
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- 2012 Subaru WRX
Well since this is the MSP section, I don't think there is one posted in this thread. I would try asking Ken from PG if he knows of one.
justanothermp5
Banned
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- Rust Bucket
i used to the turbosmart one pictured and it worked good i guess, it just would go up above 10psi no matter what i did
so i switched to the boostsciences boost controller and it works way better, running 13-14ish psi no problem now
so i switched to the boostsciences boost controller and it works way better, running 13-14ish psi no problem now
Wagonbacker9
Member
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- 2004 'Hoe
boost controller talk can be held elsewhere, this is a thread for the SSAFC guys.
