The only accurate way to measure a 0-60 time is with a GPS-based performance meter (preferably on an open road, with no clouds, and with an external antenna if you have metallic tints). Hand-timing just doesn't cut it.
After 5.5k, your power goes up as VICS opens (this is with the MP3 ECU). You want to redline the car because we have very short gearing. Not maxing out first gear puts you in bogtown in second gear. I've tested this versus the V-Box. Yes, you want to shift just before your engine pings off the limiter. This is true for almost any car save some diesels which give up the ghost at 3k rpm.
-
What speed do you launch at? On a near stock car with stock-ish tires, 4k-5k rpm gives the best results, for me (for a dump launch... for a slip launch, you might be able to launch at lower, but it'll definitely roast your clutch). Our cars aren't exactly blessed with an overabundance of torque, even if they're torquey, so you want to make sure that when the tires stop spinning, you're out of the hole and over 3000-4000 rpms.
-
Another good reason to get a GPS-based meter like the V-Box or Driftbox is to check road level. A slight incline will add a few tenths to your time.
And wind will add up to half-a-second... but a Driftbox won't tell you squat about wind conditions... (evil)
-
There are a ton of variables in 0-60 times. Don't feel bad about it. My car is making 35 more horses at the wheels than stock (about as much as most 170-175 hp cars), but my 0-62 times are stuck in the mid-8s, just half a second off stock, due to a number of factors... really sticky tires (need to launch at catastrophic engine speeds), limited slip diff, wheel-hop (car sits too level with my suspension, not enough weight over the front wheels), peaky power band due to mods, grungy shifter... but from a roll and in-gear, it's faster than my friend's almost identically modified FS-ZE (he has the FS-ZE internals, I have the cams, we both have the same engine management) equipped car, despite that one being faster from 0-30 mph.
-
That said... any issues with the O2 sensors will affect your fuel trims, so get them sorted out, run the car for a few hundred kays (or miles) to get the maps to restabilize, and test again... hopefully with an accurate meter. From the sound of it... your MP3 ECU gave you the expected boost in performance... but some other issue (incorrect timing or the O2 problem) is causing your issues.
Last edited:
