Rotor Work
- Thread starter Lindyrect
- Start date
Well, I did not get the rotors and brakes replaced. None of the parts stores could get the parts in till late Friday which was not an option. I did find out that the front rotors are not warped, only the rear. Thus clicking has nothing to do with rotors. I am now 100% convinced it is a motor mount issue. BTW do not try and buy rotors from a dealer. They are twice what you can get them for anywhere else. I also used German torque specs for re-attaching the calips and brake shuttles (guttentite).
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After doing some research I have found some parts to replace my old rotors and brakes. I was thinking these below. Your thoughts
Rear Rotor
Front Pads
Rear Pads
Also forgot to mention that I noticed the passenger rear shock is leaking. I am sure that will be a dealer only part. I looked for replacements online and saw a bunch of Rancho, but I might check around town.
Rear Rotor
Front Pads
Rear Pads
Also forgot to mention that I noticed the passenger rear shock is leaking. I am sure that will be a dealer only part. I looked for replacements online and saw a bunch of Rancho, but I might check around town.
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Just in case anyone has questions about OE (QS/ISO) standards for Centric parts.
Centric Standards
BTW Ceric is right about offshore parts. Rotors and brake pads are not held to the same standard and do not transfer heat well, sorta like the rotors already on the CX-9. You will find much cheaper rotors on the auto parts sites, but buyer beware.
Centric Standards
BTW Ceric is right about offshore parts. Rotors and brake pads are not held to the same standard and do not transfer heat well, sorta like the rotors already on the CX-9. You will find much cheaper rotors on the auto parts sites, but buyer beware.
not_too_shabby
Member
- :
- 2008 CX-9
I noticed when the brakes heat up going down a long include that I start to feel pulsation in the brakes as if the rotors were warped. Once they coold down they are smooth again. if anybody finds a replacement set of parts that resolve this issue please post it.
You might want to take the time to remove each rim and give it a good visual inspection for discoloration or exessive grooves. I noticed right away that my rear rotors were darker in color than my front and the pads where farther consumed. Also when the wheel is off, go ahead and give the rotor a spin. If it catches slightly that means warped rotor.
If you know a shop that still turns rotors you will need not only that rotor turned, but also the cooresponding side. Since the OEM rotors are crap I would not recommend resurfacing, but replacement. Many semi-performance drivers (SRTs) are using Centric parts.
I do notice that when the brakes are hotter that the brakes stutter is more pronounced, but it does not completely go away for me. Another good rule of thumb if you are repetively braking hard, never come to a complete stop and keep the brakes engaged. Use the parking brake. This allows you to keep the vehicle stopped, say at a red light, and cool the rotors and pads down. The parking brake uses a completely different setup similar to hub brakes.
If you know a shop that still turns rotors you will need not only that rotor turned, but also the cooresponding side. Since the OEM rotors are crap I would not recommend resurfacing, but replacement. Many semi-performance drivers (SRTs) are using Centric parts.
I do notice that when the brakes are hotter that the brakes stutter is more pronounced, but it does not completely go away for me. Another good rule of thumb if you are repetively braking hard, never come to a complete stop and keep the brakes engaged. Use the parking brake. This allows you to keep the vehicle stopped, say at a red light, and cool the rotors and pads down. The parking brake uses a completely different setup similar to hub brakes.
Just received my rotors and pads. I ordered them on Saturday and they were here last night Tuesday. I bought Centric rotors and pads all the way around for $334.00 w/ shipping and handling. This will be an all day Saturday project. I will keep you guys posted.
The only thing that I did not like about the rotors is the black powder coating. It is nice for the areas that do not have friction applied to them, but the rear rotors are coated were the parking brake pads make contact inside the hub.
The only thing that I did not like about the rotors is the black powder coating. It is nice for the areas that do not have friction applied to them, but the rear rotors are coated were the parking brake pads make contact inside the hub.
Pootie Tang
Member
Pootie Tang
Member
2008 FWD Rear:
Pootie Tang
Member
On some cars, overtightening the lug nuts can warp the rotor in a week or two's time. Torque to spec always. Their is rampant disregard for this with lug nuts. I find myself constantly policing every shop.
After experienceing warping I now crack the lugs and re-torque myself after any shop touches my tires. I use approx 90 lbs of torque.
Well, I got half of the job done. The rotors I ordered from carpartswholesale were the wrong front rotors. The centric part is listed on quite a few other websites as 120.45045 fitting the CX-9. A simple search on the net shows that this rotor is for a Mazda 626. I referenced Centrics website and they have the 120.45080 as the correct part. Needless to say I have to send the erroneously listed front rotors back. I found the correct rotor on tirerack.com for $80 a piece.
The only issue I ran into yesterday was with the passenger rear rotor removal. I rounded off both #13 screws, as listed in IPB above, and had to drill them out. No big deal as they are not really essential in holding the rotor on. The lug nuts do that just fine. I will keep you posted on the finished job. I do notice that some of the brake stutter is gone from the no longer warped rear rotors.
The only issue I ran into yesterday was with the passenger rear rotor removal. I rounded off both #13 screws, as listed in IPB above, and had to drill them out. No big deal as they are not really essential in holding the rotor on. The lug nuts do that just fine. I will keep you posted on the finished job. I do notice that some of the brake stutter is gone from the no longer warped rear rotors.
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I've always used brembo blanks for replacement rotors but i'm not sure if they're available in the CX-9 size. Good rotors that usually run about $50/piece.
I'm in the same camp of checking the torque on the lug nuts anytime someone else removes the tires.
If it's anything like the rotors on Hondas, the #13 screws are there to keep the rotors in place during production. Took them off my Honda when I first bought it and never had to deal with drilling them out or an impact driver. I haven't had to do any brake work on the CX-9 so i didn't know they were there.
I'm in the same camp of checking the torque on the lug nuts anytime someone else removes the tires.
If it's anything like the rotors on Hondas, the #13 screws are there to keep the rotors in place during production. Took them off my Honda when I first bought it and never had to deal with drilling them out or an impact driver. I haven't had to do any brake work on the CX-9 so i didn't know they were there.
