- :
- 2001 Mazda MP3
Cobb ATR discussion. that way people can post suggestions and post data logs to get suggestions and help?
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COBB ATR Discussion thread
- Thread starter daonly1around
- Start date
Cobb ATR discussion. that way people can post suggestions and post data logs to get suggestions and help?
Ok here you go!! Im leaving you to get this baby going
- :
- 2001 Mazda MP3
now i need my AP.. HAHA.. i just wanted something set for when i get mine in a couple months.. SOOO people, post up logs etc etc... even if you don't have ATR..
mazdaspeed32007
Member
- :
- Mazdaspeed3
sometimes changing certain values a little can help a lot.
for a quick example....your car waits a certain amount of time between shifts to change from closed loop to open loop. this is known as the exit delays. if your fuel pump loses pressure after a WOT hard shift then it may not be your pump at all. changing these to lets say half the values will return the car to open loop faster allowing your vehicle to be ready for the WOT hard shift you dont do unless your on a closed course.....lol. but changing these values will change how your car reacts in part throttle or wide open throttle. it may run great at wot but be a little "bucky" in part throttle. to counter this you would need to mess with certain throttle load tables to adjust how the car reacts from part throttle to wide open throttle and the transitions between the two. if you read up on cobbs tuning guide it will help you a lot in tuning your car. if you have any questions after that then post them up. im sure a lot of people know their s*** on access tuner. this is a tough ecu to adjust, it reacts a lot to very little. sometimes your better off getting to "kind of" where you want it rather than going for perfect. right now my a/f runs typically at 11.5 at WOT with no knock and 18-19 psi. my fuel pressure with my upgraded internals are usually good around 1700. theyve been acting up so im going to go with ptp's fuel pump. ive done all i could to try to correct the fuel problem and finally gave up saying its def my internals. if you ran the tune i had with my bad internals you could possibly do damage to your pump or car because your car was running fine without the fuel change. its a constant fun being this "in tune" with your car. no pun intended.
for a quick example....your car waits a certain amount of time between shifts to change from closed loop to open loop. this is known as the exit delays. if your fuel pump loses pressure after a WOT hard shift then it may not be your pump at all. changing these to lets say half the values will return the car to open loop faster allowing your vehicle to be ready for the WOT hard shift you dont do unless your on a closed course.....lol. but changing these values will change how your car reacts in part throttle or wide open throttle. it may run great at wot but be a little "bucky" in part throttle. to counter this you would need to mess with certain throttle load tables to adjust how the car reacts from part throttle to wide open throttle and the transitions between the two. if you read up on cobbs tuning guide it will help you a lot in tuning your car. if you have any questions after that then post them up. im sure a lot of people know their s*** on access tuner. this is a tough ecu to adjust, it reacts a lot to very little. sometimes your better off getting to "kind of" where you want it rather than going for perfect. right now my a/f runs typically at 11.5 at WOT with no knock and 18-19 psi. my fuel pressure with my upgraded internals are usually good around 1700. theyve been acting up so im going to go with ptp's fuel pump. ive done all i could to try to correct the fuel problem and finally gave up saying its def my internals. if you ran the tune i had with my bad internals you could possibly do damage to your pump or car because your car was running fine without the fuel change. its a constant fun being this "in tune" with your car. no pun intended.
AutoEuphoria
Member
- :
- '08 CPW Mazdaspeed 3
One question - the maps available from Cobb are all designed to run with a catted DP...stock or aftermarket. What changes should be made to account for a more free-flowing catless exhaust (dp and midpipe)? I am planning to get an AP this week, and would like to modify one of the 1.5 maps to work with my catless setup without causing overboost, running lean, etc. Talking more on the conservative side rather than all-out power.
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- 2007 MS3
I really want one of these things, but fate is conspiring to keep me too broke to buy one. Meanwhile, I have a question for those who are lucky enough to own one. Is there a map that allows you to set boost limits based on rpm?
The reason I ask is that there seems to be an issue with the rods in these cars when making too much power at low rpms. Back in the day I had a turbocharged Sunbird that was set up to not allow boost below 3000 rpm. I`m reasonably sure this was to preserve the bottom end and rods. Can the AP accomplish pretty much the same thing?
The reason I ask is that there seems to be an issue with the rods in these cars when making too much power at low rpms. Back in the day I had a turbocharged Sunbird that was set up to not allow boost below 3000 rpm. I`m reasonably sure this was to preserve the bottom end and rods. Can the AP accomplish pretty much the same thing?
I really want one of these things, but fate is conspiring to keep me too broke to buy one. Meanwhile, I have a question for those who are lucky enough to own one. Is there a map that allows you to set boost limits based on rpm?
The reason I ask is that there seems to be an issue with the rods in these cars when making too much power at low rpms. Back in the day I had a turbocharged Sunbird that was set up to not allow boost below 3000 rpm. I`m reasonably sure this was to preserve the bottom end and rods. Can the AP accomplish pretty much the same thing?
yes you can drop requested load in the lower rev range. My current tune targets 14psi, then 18 to smooth out boost spikes. peak tq doesnt happen till 3.5-4k.
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- 2007 MS3
Thank you sir. The more I learn about these, the more I want one.
mazdaspeed32007
Member
- :
- Mazdaspeed3
you can do EVERYTHING in atr. i love it. if something changes in value for some unknown reason or if you change a part you can easily accomodate the engine with what it needs for that part. this was prob one of my most prize purchases. it helped me mod depending on what the ar needed. once i reached the cars fuel pump limit i knew there was something not quite right by just the butt dyno. so i watched all my parameters and sure enough for a second or two after a shift my fp was hitting 1300 psi. BAM new fp. (note: fuel pump didnt just appear. i had to buy it and wait for it to come in. noise was just for effect.) then i can work with atr some more and rip some more power with the new fp.
you can do EVERYTHING in atr. i love it. if something changes in value for some unknown reason or if you change a part you can easily accomodate the engine with what it needs for that part. this was prob one of my most prize purchases. it helped me mod depending on what the ar needed. once i reached the cars fuel pump limit i knew there was something not quite right by just the butt dyno. so i watched all my parameters and sure enough for a second or two after a shift my fp was hitting 1300 psi. BAM needed new engine. (note: engine didnt just appear. i had to buy it and wait for it to come in. noise was just for effect.) then i can work with atr some more and rip some more power with the new fp.
fixed lol
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- 2007 MS3
BAM new fp. (note: fuel pump didnt just appear. i had to buy it and wait for it to come in.
I`m glad you clarified that. I was going to tell my wife about this amazing tool that automatically diagnoses the engine and teleports in replacement parts. Boy, would I have looked foolish!
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- 2007 MS3
get the AP Mid Life, you wont regret it lol. what are your current mods?
Pretty minimal.
MSCAI, Inlet tube, prototype Forge BPV, my own version of the Rotus8 shifter mod, motor mount, shifter bushings, boost gauge.
I want to push the boost up a little, but I want to do it right, and that means monitoring the results and tweaking things like timing and AFRs as necessary.
I also am of the belief that the original tune on these cars has to be very generic to run in a huge variety of environments and work for a number of different driving styles (with this car all would include the word aggressive, but the options are always, occasionally, and once in a while).
I want to tune for my particular intake/MAF, and push up the boost only in the upper RPMs. In addition, I would like to get rid of the overdone low gear steering angle induced boost limit. I might even reduce the overall boost at low rpms to reduce my tendency to spin the tires at stop lights. I just don`t want the nanny doing it for me.
Essentially, I want to make the car as stable as I can and redefine the power curve to suit my style better. It sounds like the AP can accomplish that.
Pretty minimal.
MSCAI, Inlet tube, prototype Forge BPV, my own version of the Rotus8 shifter mod, motor mount, shifter bushings, boost gauge.
I want to push the boost up a little, but I want to do it right, and that means monitoring the results and tweaking things like timing and AFRs as necessary.
I also am of the belief that the original tune on these cars has to be very generic to run in a huge variety of environments and work for a number of different driving styles (with this car all would include the word aggressive, but the options are always, occasionally, and once in a while).
I want to tune for my particular intake/MAF, and push up the boost only in the upper RPMs. In addition, I would like to get rid of the overdone low gear steering angle induced boost limit. I might even reduce the overall boost at low rpms to reduce my tendency to spin the tires at stop lights. I just don`t want the nanny doing it for me.
Essentially, I want to make the car as stable as I can and redefine the power curve to suit my style better. It sounds like the AP can accomplish that.
yes it can. you'll have to do a lot of reading of the atr manual and testing/tweaking for what your looking for. I recommend getting a protune, they have access to more tables then we do in ATR. I know its more $$$ but gives me peace of mind. Also, the tuner i went to and I are in contact on almost a weekly basis making sure everythings working well
mazdaspeed32007
Member
- :
- Mazdaspeed3
fixed lol
lol. no i cant even get to BAM. gotta start it first.
lol. no i cant even get to BAM. gotta start it first.
lol was commenting on your other thread, sorry bout your troubles man. that sounds like a PCM problem. buddy of mine fried his doing a stereo install. sometimes it worked, other times it didnt. i would recheck all the TT wiring and make sure all the wires have good contact
Thank you sir. The more I learn about these, the more I want one.
Best thing about the AP is your car won't die at 5500 rpm. It will pull all the way to redline.
I was out data logging yesterday in the cold air and man let me tell you, 18-19 lbs of boost with temps in the 30's makes my car insane. The AP will make you fall in love with the car all over again. Remember when you first drove it around with a grin from ear to ear, the grin will return.
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- 2007 MS3
I was out data logging yesterday in the cold air.
Another benefit I hadn`t thought of. When I go out blasting around back roads having fun with my car, I can call it something dignified and pretend I was just being responsible testing changes I made to my car. Yeah, I like it.
mazdaspeed32007
Member
- :
- Mazdaspeed3
my car pulls crazy hard and the boost goes to and holds 20 psi. 30 degrees or so just opens this car up super silly style. my fmic stays so cold. my intake temp is near 40 degrees and my fmic is like....75. lol. my s**** love it.
edit...it was 22 out tonight and my cars intake temp was 27 with a boost air temp of 46. sweeeeeet.
edit...it was 22 out tonight and my cars intake temp was 27 with a boost air temp of 46. sweeeeeet.
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