Oil changes at the dealer?

[graviongr]

When you bought your new 2010 Mazda 3, you probably got something in the mail a few weeks later telling you about your "My Mazda" site. It's a personalized site with your Mazda info.

Well there's a coupons section in there, and I don't know if it will work for everyone, but in my area for my dealer there was a coupon for "Oil Change Plus". Image below.

Originally I wanted to try it myself, but lack of guides and information dissuaded me (the owner's manual doesn't even explain how many quarts of oil I need). Also I guess you need a special wrench to get the oil filter off which I don't have. I will do it at some point down the road but I need to get the oil changed asap.

I'm also hesitant to try any "Jiffy Lube" or similar type of shop due to the poor business practices at these locations, and the promotion of services that can harm your engine.

Here's the coupon, it seems like a good deal. I did also notice the "Some vehicles may be slightly higher" and "Hazardous waste fee applicable" disclaimers though.

 

[cackalacky]

(the owner's manual doesn't even explain how many quarts of oil I need).

I'm also hesitant to try any "Jiffy Lube" or similar type of shop due to the poor business practices at these locations

Wow, really? No info on oil capacity? I find that hard to believe. Def. do not take it to Jiffy Lube. The dealer should be able to do it for just as cheap. Plus, they should also check fluids, brakes, etc. At least mine does. However, I would recommend doing it yourself if you can, as even the Mazda dealer is not going to treat your baby like it needs to be treated.
Congrats on the new M3. I'm looking these over myself...

 

[mikethern]

You need a universal oil filter wrench to remove the factory installed oil filter. You can any brand of filter on after that. I like Fram filters because they have an easy grip filter that doesn't require any wrench.

I recommend doing all of your own oil changes. Shops have a tendency to lose the screws of the undercarriage cover. They also don't allow all the dirty oil to drain out of the car because they are in a hurry to get to their next customer.

The Mazda3 manual from your glove box does indicate the oil pan capacity. I just bought a 2010 Mazda 3 two days ago.

 

[graviongr]

Yeah I found it actually. Just haven't posted back in this thread yet. It's not in the Oil section. But rather in the last few pages called "Capacity's". It's 4.5 quarts for the 2.0L model.

You guys have convinced me to do it myself though, I am going to buy that wrench you are talking about and give it a shot.

 

[el_Don]

the new mazda 3 engine is a 2.0?

 

[mikethern]

the new mazda 3 engine is a 2.0?

2 engines available.... 2.0 and 2.5

 

[mikethern]

You guys have convinced me to do it myself though, I am going to buy that wrench you are talking about and give it a shot.

Play it safe and use jackstands, and chock the back wheels. Run the engine for 10 minutes being changing the oil, because warm oil contains more impurities and flows out better. Wear rubber dishwashing gloves to protect your hands from the hot oil. Don't use a wrench to tighten the new oil filter. Tighten it by hand only. Fram filters have the best grip.

 

[graviongr]

Thank you for the tips, I will utilize them. As for running the engine first, I always hear to do it when it is cool, but your logic is sound. Should I run it for 10 and then wait a while or just get directly to the job at hand?

Unfortunately though, I may have to get my first oil change at the dealer. Auto Zone, O'Reileys Auto Parts, and Advanced Auto in my area all did not have an oil filter for a 2010 Mazda 3.

Also, in another thread you posted to Fram's website, and they didn't even have it in their database yet.

Or maybe I can buy an oil filter from the dealer? I guess I could call them and ask. Their service department is closed at the time of this posting though.

 

[cackalacky]

I would recommend a Napa Gold filter. They are a bit more expensive, but have a silicone anti-drainback valve, which will last longer than a rubber one. That being said, I've used Fram filters in my Nissan pickup for over 130k miles with no problems.

Also if you have a chance, pre-fill the oil filter before you put it on by just pouring a bit of oil in and letting the media soak it up a couple of times. If I do not do this on my Pro5, I get a dry start situation, which is pretty scary sounding and can do some damage. The 3 may have a better oil pump/delivery system, but it doesn't hurt to do it.

 

[mikethern]

gravion, try the fram website again. The oil filter for the 2010 mazda3 is PH9566. I'll bet your local auto parts store does have it. I'll bet they do not know that it fits the 2010 mazda3 because the car is so new. You can buy it online too at this link....
https://www.amazon.com (commissions earned)

As for warming up the engine, just run the engine for 10 minutes before putting the car on jackstands. I warm up my engine by driving it to a deserted street and change the oil there in case I spill a little oil. Every car manual that is on sale at auto parts stores states to warm up the oil before changing it.

Oil change checklist.....

Assorted wrenches to remove the undercarriage cover and oil pan plug. Don't use an adjustable wrench because you risk stripping the bolts.
Oil.
Oil filter.
Dishwashing gloves.
Universal oil filter wrench to remove the factory installed filter (you won't need a wrench to remove a fram filter).
Jackstands.
Wheel chock blocks.
Trash bag.
Paper towels.
Plastic drain pan.
Clean empty liquid laundry detergent bottle to store the dirty oil.

Never work under a vehicle that is supported only by a jack. That's asking for death.

Also, put a film of oil on the new filter's gasket before installing it.

Check your oil everyday for 3 days after the oil change to make sure it isn't leaking.

Cackalacky, the fram filter has an anti-drain valve too. See link....
http://www.power-21.com/FramPower21i/PartDetailWindow.aspx?b=F&pn=PH9566

Here's an interesting link that proves that you should always change your oil yourself....
http://www.mohea.com/mike/words/000158.html

 

[mikethern]

Wait a minute. I have been researching oil filters. Fram may not be a good brand after all. See link....
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/opinions.html#recommended


Here's a place you can buy official Mazda oil filters....
http://www.mazdaparts.org/mazda-oilfilter-genuine.html

 

[mikethern]

It looks like the 2010 Mazda3 uses the same oil filter as the 2006 Miata. So pick a good brand of oil filter, and if they do not list the size for the 2010 Mazda3, look up the 2006 Miata and buy that one.

 

[digi0123]

Cost you 24 at the dealership. Depends on what oil they use. I believe they use Castrol Syntec...lots of reading about who likes which oil, that should be a new thread. I am going to let the dealership do my first one with oil I bring in, they can use the mazda filter. Reason for this is they do the full 120 point inspection on the vehicle (this goes online in your records to based on VIN) also I can get the user specific thing you should have in your manual zippy thing done to change a few options. Also, if you haven't seen it...there is a NHTSA recal for the vehicle:

http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/recalls/recallsummary.cfm?rcl_campaign_id=09V126000&prod_id=630768&moduletype=VEHICLE&make=MAZDA&model=MAZDA3&veh_model_year=2010&searchtype=DrillDown

Cover it all in one shot. After this one, I'm doing all the changes. Cost me the filter, K&N has one, just saying they have one, not that you need to get it..and the oil I can get at Walmart for cheaper. DYI is essential to knowing your vehicle. If you feel comfortable doing it...just saying...my wife does all her maintenance on her CR-V. And yes...she's hot.

 

[theredmission]

Does anyone know the part number for the special wrench you need for the filter?

 

[graviongr]

Discussion about this has been taken over by this thread;

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123744238

If you buy a 5-pack of filters from this link, then you get an oil filter wrench bit. However, if you read the above thread, the factory filter is probably different from what you will buy there.

I don't know about part numbers or anything, but there is a number imprinted on that included wrench, there is an A251, a B, and a CTA imprinted on there, I have no clue if this is information that is relevant.

Besides, even if it is, the included wrench bit in that link does not fit the factory installed one anyways, you would need a different wrench bit for that one (most likely).

 

[Dubcnea]

if you have the means, PLEASE change your own oil. it's so much safer than letting some person that did NOT spend $18,000+ plus on that vehicle. yeah yeah guarantee this and that...forget that. they are there to do a job and that's it. part of their job is NOT to make sure that your car stays clean, isn't damaged, etc. they may say it is...it isn't. and taking oil in doesn't guarantee that's what they're putting in. just do it yourself...it's a bit cheaper...yes it takes some time and you might get dirty, but i promise it's better than dealing with the aftermath of a failure oil changer at a jiffy lube, dealer, wherever.

 

[mikethern]

Changed oil for the first time on my 2010 i-touring. Oil filter location is awesome. Allowed me to fill the new filter with oil before installing. Used 17mm wrench for oil drain plug. Didn't need to raise the car. Piece of cake.

Although the manual states that the engines holds 4.5 quarts of oil, I had to add a total a 5 quarts to get to the fill line.

 

[Dubcnea]

the 2.5 liter holds 5.2 qts with filter change. that's insane.

 

[mikethern]

Turns out I overfilled it because I didn't put the dipstick all the way down. Duh. 4.5 quarts seems correct after all.

 

[NathanR]

The purolator oil filter number is L10241 (or PL10241 for the PureOne). Air filter number is A44688.

Both oil filters have anti-drainback valves and the PureOne's is silicone. The PureOne filter is also entirely coated in the "grippy" stuff.