HOW TO: Install Boost Gauge into Drivers Vent

[Jasnall]

You forgot to metion that accessing the Hole in the firewall where the truck release cable goes requires the use of a female asian gymnist. PLus now my grommet is just chillen, couldn't get it back in the hol ewith my boost wire running on the outside of it. may have to cut a hole in the grommet.
Otherwise pretty good write up.

 

[migueleitor]

hello

who know what the smallest boost gauge is?

i'm looking for one smaller than 2" and of cource the pod to put it in on the steering wheel in a mazdaspeed 3.

thank you

 

[AutoEuphoria]

I believe 52mm...anything smaller than that would probably be really hard to read anyway. I haven't seen any smaller than 52mm though.

 

[migueleitor]

i swa one in a subaru sti, it was like 1 1/16 or something like thank but i don't find anything online.

 

[migueleitor]

before i install my boost gauge, can you send a picture where the vacuum hose is. i know it is a stupid question but i want to make sure before i cut it.

thank you.

 

[AutoEuphoria]

I used the hose that goes to the Bypass valve. That is the plastic piece at the front of the engine bay that is right off the intercooler. Take the plastic intercooler cover off and you will see it right away. Just cut the vacuum line that goes to that and insert a T-fitting. Connect the two cut ends of the vacuum line to the two side fittings on the T and then run a line from the top fitting to your boost gauge.

EDIT:

You can see the vacuum line in these pictures I took today:

The stock BPV will look different than the one I have (the RKM unit), but it (and the line) will be in the same location.

 

[migueleitor]

Thank you , i will let you know how it goes.

i'm you trying to sell your bov , jajajaj.

see ya.

 

[karl hungus]

i wussed out on a boost gauge (too much cutting and splicing) and just went w/ the aeroforce scangauge & rpm vent pod. hardest part was taking off the hood release from the lower dash.

 

[MS3MB]

looks amazing A+++++++

 

[SallySpeed3]

I've been debating whether or not I should try doing this myself. Just bought a vent-pod from rpmstore so that should make the install a little easier, but still. Never had any experience with electrical stuff so I'm a little weary. Before I go ahead and make a decision just wanted to know 1. how long will this take on average? and 2. any idea what a shop would charge to install a turbo gauge? thanks

 

[Kain]

Easy peasy japanesey. Do not pay to have this installed. Just follow the first post.

 

[karl hungus]

too scary for me. put an aeroforce gauge in my rpm vent pod.

 

[Kain]

laff. I could've just installed it for you, take an hour.

 

[ZoomZoomPSSH]

Nice write up. Followed beginning sections for my prosport premium boost gauge. A little different seeing how prosport doesnt have the control unit (and also I have a ventpod so I cheated lol)

 

[SallySpeed3]

Hey ZoomZoom, I'm doing the same install as you tommorow. have the prosport and the ventpod as well. What did you do differently? I bought some extra wire because the wiring w/ the prosport is no where near long enough to reach the glovebox. Just wondering cause if there's an easier way to do this I'd like to know. Thx.

 

[ZoomZoomPSSH]

Hey ZoomZoom, I'm doing the same install as you tommorow. have the prosport and the ventpod as well. What did you do differently? I bought some extra wire because the wiring w/ the prosport is no where near long enough to reach the glovebox. Just wondering cause if there's an easier way to do this I'd like to know. Thx.

Well I simply followed the first few steps that would apply to my install. One of the hardest parts was pushing the wire from that goes from the boost sensor to the ventpod through the hood release grommet. It has a little rubber stopper "thingy" that you need to pull out of the way from the inside. After you do that his method of taping the cable to a wire coat hanger works really well. Just push it through and pull from other side. You'll also have to pull apart the inside panels on the drivers side as the tutorial said in order to connect the wires to the back of the gauge neatly and properly.

As far as the wiring, I did not do it. My friend did. He had to use extra cables and ran the "extended cable" through the bottom side panel on drivers side and out the inner panel on passenger side (the ones nearest to the center console) and up to the fusebox under the glove box. I don't remember what he connected the constant wire to. I know he connected the acc wire to the radio fuse (So it turns on and off with the car) Of course it all depends on what color setup you want. Different color combinations require you to connect different cables to different places. I did Amber/Amber. Make sure that when you connect the wires that you do not connect constant power and acc together. If you do your gauge will work, however it will not "save" your warning level or perform the proper shutdown sequence. Make sure when you finish the wiring to check the connections on the back of the gauge to make sure they are snug and tight. If they aren't your needle will start to bounce around everywhere like mine did. That's a complaint some people had about these gauges but its all due to a loose connection.

If you have more questions and/or want some pics let me know.
Good luck

 

[SallySpeed3]

Great, thanks ZoomZoom. That helps alot. Hopefully by tommorow I will have it installed.

 

[Kain]

The one thing I would change is using Add-a-Circuit or Add-a-Fuse minis instead of a blade connector. Sure, it'll run you a few extra bucks, but it's simply Plug 'n Play. I used door locks for the constant, the radio for the switched, and the right tail light for the illumination. There's also a nice ground bolt behind the passenger kick panel. I soldered wire extensions and the Add-a-Circuits inside my home first since the Defi gauge harness wasn't long enough. Then I used a metal wire hanger to feed the wires from the sensor in the engine bay to the driver footwell using the grommet mentioned in the first post where the hood release cable goes to. Then I used the same hanger to feed the power/ground wires behind the HU and to the PJB behind the glove box. Probably the simplest wiring job I've ever done in a car.

 

[Ferdball]

One thing I would suggest is to cut a slit in the hood release grommet. Otherwise, your wire is going to run between the grommet and bare sheet metal. It is much easier to push through that way, and you don't run the risk of shorting out.

 

[ZoomZoomPSSH]

One thing I would suggest is to cut a slit in the hood release grommet. Otherwise, your wire is going to run between the grommet and bare sheet metal. It is much easier to push through that way, and you don't run the risk of shorting out.

That's actually a great idea. I should have done that but after the 94 Degreee Texas heat and humidity hits you for about 30 mins you kind of start getting a little anxious on finishing the job quickly. I just wrapped some electrical tape around the cable a few times to avoid it from stripping as well.
Ferdball's method is better though.

Good tip +1 Ferdball