Weird Noise From Bypass Valve after Turbo Inlet Install.

I'm running blue+2 on a MS CAI and Cobb TIP. I've been watching my numbers on my DH and I did notice an increase in boost pressure with teh TIP installed. I only get the 'turkey' noise when under light throttle and not a full boost build. Other than that, I've not seen any adverse effects.

Here's a thought: what if, with the BPV and free-flowing TIP installed, that the excess pressure could cause blow-by of oil past the turbo seals causing a light smoking at idle? I do know that blue+2 doesn't have as much vacuum at idle as blue+1 or blue alone...any thoughts?
 
I'm running blue+2 on a MS CAI and Cobb TIP. I've been watching my numbers on my DH and I did notice an increase in boost pressure with teh TIP installed. I only get the 'turkey' noise when under light throttle and not a full boost build. Other than that, I've not seen any adverse effects.

Here's a thought: what if, with the BPV and free-flowing TIP installed, that the excess pressure could cause blow-by of oil past the turbo seals causing a light smoking at idle? I do know that blue+2 doesn't have as much vacuum at idle as blue+1 or blue alone...any thoughts?

I haven't seen any smoke at all while at IDLE.

Your assesment on when you hear the noise makes sense. Thats how I get the stock valve to make the noise. What I think is happening is the turbo is trying to push in more air than the engine needs and when the butterfly closes, you get the pressure spike causing the turkey gobble. I think the noise is from a rapid deceleration of the compressor.
 
I have been experiencing a burnt smell and small tufts of smoke right as I get out of an idle situation and get on gas, even if I stay out of boost. The dealership can't seem to replicate the situation, and I'm not sure what the cause is, as I don't think the turbo is blown. I might try changing my spring combo to increase vacuum at idle and see if I can correct this problem. My next bet might be to get an oil catch can and a secondary PCV valve.
 
I think i'm going to start with the blue spring only when I get my Forge and see what my #'s look like. I'll have to start monitoring my stock vacuum #'s first.
 
I tried the yellow spring + 2 shims today and was able to replicate the squirrel bark sound from my Cobb inlet. I guess that means we can eliminate compressor surge unless it is happening solely because of the inlet. I went back to blue + 2.
 
I just conducted an experiment which had the results I expected as I've done it before with the same results. I've had the forge for almost a year and have been running Blue with two shims all that time.

I removed the two shims and went for a drive and noticed right away that the car was smoother and the Forge sound was quieter, I assume it's holding less boost so it makes less sound when released. I made several WOT runs through the gears and the car did not seem to have the EDGE it had before and the bark was still present.

I put the two shims back in with the blue spring and went back out. I noticed right away that the Forge was louder and the lower RPM shifts were not as smooth, however when I had the chance to go WOT through the gears it was very obvious that the car pulled stronger and the Forge held boost between shifts better. The car has no hesitation between shifts at WOT and seems eager to get to the next gear with boost pent up and waiting.

In other past threads Patty at Forge has said that for a stock car use the blue spring and with bolt ons use the blue with one or two shims.

Search "Patty".

I'm staying Blue W/2

I dont have an inlet but Silver ectasy turned me on to this thread. I have been running blue w/2 since I got it. CWPspeed3 has been running just blue with no problems. I pulled the shims, cleaned and re-installed the BPV and notice the same thing as above. A little smoother through normal driving but no where near as viscious when you go WOT. I am going to try blue w/1 shim and see where that gets me. Maybe the happy medium is the place to be.
 
I have also wondered if intakes plays into this combination as well... SRI vs CAI and Blue with ?? shims...

I would think it would, as the air straightener/velocity stack that some intakes have would adjust your airflow, and even moreso if you have an inlet.
 
So Bill, when you pulled the forge for cleaning, you re-installed without shims? I thought about starting with yellow when mine comes in. Yellow+2, but maybe Blue should be the way to go.
 
you didnt like your forge or your inlet?

I'm not a big fan of the inlet noise, but it doesn't bother everyone. I really want to know if the CP-E and the Metal inlets out in the market have this sound.

I loved my Forge by the way.
 
I'm not a big fan of the inlet noise, but it doesn't bother everyone. I really want to know if the CP-E and the Metal inlets out in the market have this sound.

I loved my Forge by the way.

i have a metal inlet with a blue coupler at the turb connection. I get pretty loud noise from it, more air rushing by sound, kind of like a cold air intake effect, but amplified my mazdaspeed cold air intake sound.

Basically it makes the mazdaspeed intake louder, air rushing by metal, no muffler silicone sound i guess you could say, more tin sounding
 
squirrel? Ive never heard of such a thing, you mean like squeeking/chipmunk squirrel sounds???

its more of a tiny sound, not tiny like small but TINy like metal tin, air rushing by medal, like an intake on a civic. If you have a mazdaspeed cold air intake and or you've heard the sound it makes, its like that but amplified a bit more. So since i already have the mazdaspeed intake, its just a louder amplification of that when combined together.

I would think the silicone inlets would be more muffled sounding, the air would be quieter inside and not give that rushing sound
 

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