Downpipe how-to?

[MM BOOST]

Alright before people jump my s*** and tell me to search (I have, I just must be searching the wrong thing or something, because I just keep finding threads about people talkin about downpipes), can someone please point me in the right direction as to where to find a downpipe how to? I just received my turbo xs downpipe yesterday and will be installing next weekend, and I am doing this with the help of a friend. I know about the pb blaster and such, I just would like to find a picture-how to for downpipe installation step by step so I know where to start and in what order to do things.

 

[MSMS3]

Uh, the search was easy:

"down pipe + install + instructions" (pretty straight forward query) yields:

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123712998&highlight=downpipe+install+instructions

You get a pass on this one, next time, maybe try a bit harder?

 

[mazdaspeed32007]

haha. wise ass. lol.

 

[AutoEuphoria]

It's really as simple as

1. Undo all bolts holding the stock one in
2. Unplug any sensors
3. Take stock one out
4. Put sensors in new one
5. Put new one one
6. Tighten all bolts holding new one on.
7. Plug sensors back in

 

[bykeryder4life]

^^^that is a huge understatement. There's little s*** here and there. If I was someone trying to install a dp i would get the instructions from cpe that they send with.....they are great.

 

[maestro]

It's really as simple as

1. Undo all bolts holding the stock one in
2. Unplug any sensors
3. Take stock one out
4. Put sensors in new one
5. Put new one one
6. Tighten all bolts holding new one on.
7. Plug sensors back in

If you have TMIC remove it, heat shields need to be removed, also I found it easier to do by removing the tunnel bracing.
In a nut shell.

 

[MM BOOST]

Well thanks for the search, I was searching "downpipe how to" so excuse me for not finding it, lol. But I did some research throughout the day and found a few tips. I was told to soak the 02's and turbo stud bolts in pb blaster and then drive the car around quickly or just rev the motor up, heating the downpipe up a bit to make the bolts come out easier. From what i've heard, its made the bolts come out much easier in comparison to completely cold and I am assuming because everything expands as it heats up and then the threads condenses as it cools. I just finished 4 hours of working on custom brake calipers, so I am spent, so if what I type don't make sense, please forgive thy.

 

[johns]

you can only search for words that are 4 characters or longer

 

[funksilver07]

Here... http://www.protegepower.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123714522 (band)

 

[TheRealDefman]

Uh, the search was easy:

"down pipe + install + instructions" (pretty straight forward query) yields:

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123712998&highlight=downpipe+install+instructions

You get a pass on this one, next time, maybe try a bit harder?

I dispute this a little... that query yields 11 pages of posts that have ONE of those words in them.... s***, the third search return is about HID's, not really useful if you want to know about down pipes is it???

 

[funksilver07]

The hardest part of this install is removing the 02 sensors (if they're ceased on the DP) and getting to the turbo manifold bolts. Once you get past those hurtles the rest is pretty straight forward. With access to a lift the job is much easier to deal with...

 

[PCspeed3]

really once you get the IC and heat shields off it is fairly straight forward.

 

[MSMS3]

Just be VERY CAREFUL removing the nuts from those turbo studs, and putting them back after the swap. They are hard to reach, require some "wiggler" sockets, a couple different size extensions and a LOT OF PATIENCE. Strip those mothers and you've got big trouble. After reading about some bad experiences here and "over there", I hired a performance muffler shop and had them do the work for $200. I found it money well spent -- took them four hours with the print out from the "how to" and with all the professional tools, even after removing the TMIC and heat shields.

They do a lot of custom work for pro cars that run on the drag strip here, so they know their stuff. I watched the work while the car was up on the lift and listened to the blue star cussing, and these guys are "the" exhaust performance shop around here.

A small part of that time was cutting off the stock "ricer" 4 inch exhaust tip and welding a very stealthy 3 1/2 inch single thin wall stainless Magnaflow tip that pretty much disappears against the black rear valance because of its very thin wall thickness.

In addition to your good observations, you need to remove that cross member above the second cat, for the easiest install with the TurboXS stealth back.

You will love, absolutely love the difference in performance. You should expect CEL's. I've tried all the various fixes and still the light comes and goes somewhat randomly. A spark plug extender on the second sensor seems to be working best for me, but still get random light.

If you have a decent intake, I think you'll find new Mustang GT's to be no challenge at all. They pull from the hole, but then it's bye-bye.

 

[MM BOOST]

Well I am worried about a local cobalt ss-t/c on the 28th...he called me out and we are racing at street fights...he's been talkin major s*** about me and my car, so we have like a grudge match. Everyone has been wanting to see it. I just hope this helps me alot. he has an intake, cut off muffler, and a "mail-in tune"

 

[MSMS3]

"mail-in tune"

Well, depending on where he got that tune and what it was designed to do, it could mean nothing, or it could be a whopping careless bump up in boost that would beat you bad, at least until it blows his motor.

 

[MM BOOST]

well I know mail-in tune's are usually great, I guess you just gotta know this guy. he modded the s*** out of his cobalt ss-s/c before he traded it in and as he did more mods, he ran worse times. His best was a 14.2 and it was fully modded. And he ran a 14.5 stock with his cobalt tc, so who knows. I have turbo xs stealthback, turbo xs hybrid bov, injen cai, medieval turbo inlet, s.u. boost tubes, trz rear mm, one resonator and muffler removed from the stock exhaust, one step colder plugs, short shifter/bushings, h&r springs, and 235/40/18 tires on 8" wide wheels...I think I have a good chance if I can just get the car launched (see the quarter mile tips and info thread in engine discussion forum).

 

[MSMS3]

I have turbo xs stealthback, turbo xs hybrid bov, injen cai, medieval turbo inlet, s.u. boost tubes, trz rear mm, one resonator and muffler removed from the stock exhaust, one step colder plugs, short shifter/bushings, h&r springs, and 235/40/18 tires on 8" wide wheels...I think I have a good chance if I can just get the car launched (see the quarter mile tips and info thread in engine discussion forum).

Should run in the mid to low 13's with decent weather conditions and at or near sea level.

But I'd bet you run quicker times if you take off that bov and go back to the stock one or equivalent.

Good luck. Go stomp his ass, don't miss that 2-3 shift, and report back to us.

 

[PCspeed3]

why is everyone bashing BPV's lately? did I miss a dyno sheet or something?

 

[MM BOOST]

Should run in the mid to low 13's with decent weather conditions and at or near sea level.

But I'd bet you run quicker times if you take off that bov and go back to the stock one or equivalent.

Good luck. Go stomp his ass, don't miss that 2-3 shift, and report back to us.

How would running the stock bpv yield a better time? Everything I have read has said that once you start modding this car, the stocker starts leaking.

 

[Wurf]

Maybe cause it's Hybrid and not full recirc?