as you can see in the link, if you use the keep the bigger spring i think the whistle will go away....if you use the smaller one your BOV will react to almost any throttle movement. The advantage of a single spring is that you can adjust the screw and avoid the valve fluttering
Help with issues from Greddy RS install please
- Thread starter RC08MS3
- Start date
agreed, taking out the spring eliminates the flutter, mine reacts very quickly but i removed the spring as soon as i got the valve so i cannot say I would have flutter with both of them in there as I always had just the 1 spring in there.
The single spring mod is good. I have 6 full 360 degree turns from first contact with the single spring mod done and i get no flutter or surge, no baby after-whistle and its loud as heck even recirculated. The loudnedd could also be from the fact i have the ets and the inlet pipe as well as other mods.
good to hear. I knew the single spring mod would stop that whistle, when adjuster right, it also made mine a bit louder. Your stalling is definately from running it vta. Snap that beast back on when the fitting arrives and you'll be fine. It's unfortunate our cars cant run vta as it sounds the loudest and best when vented
yeah that would be nice. I dont understand how the whole maf thing works anyways, tho if there was a way to stop the stalling that would be great.
lestat13 has the hks now and runsa it vta without issues. its the type of the bov as the hks is a pull type and closes when the car is in idle while the greddy is a push type and tends to stay open and leak when at idle which is what causes the stalling issues, the bov is sucking in air from the outside that is unmetered. if you try the hks apparently it stays closed at all times except when blowing off, so you get no stalling issues just the rich shifting. For most of us we could care less about the rich shift, but dont like the stalling. There is pretty much no way to stop it with the greddy unless you get this part here:
as you can see in the pic, when it is driving and at idle it is clsed or sucked in and shuts (like the hks does) and then when you blow off it pushed the piece out and open to release air, then is sucked back in to stop the stalling issues. This part will stop your issues and let you run it vta. They dont make this for the type-s which i have and I wish they did. But this part is unfortunately like $50 or so, if you can snag one you'd be able to run your type-rs vta without stalling issues
ok I have to chime in on this thread!! So today I got back in town and met up with my car club/team and we had an install day at the garage. One of the guys mentioned how he had taken off his greddy RS bov and put on a new one (he wanted the HKS). Well I made a comment...we should see how it does on my car. Granted I've been running the Type-S KNOCK off since about May or so, with generally no problems. I was just not happy with the fact it was a knock off brand and the sound was sub-par IMO. So we got to messing around and I talked him into letting me have it...so what I did was install the Greddy RS on my car...I already had the adapter flange from the type s, so that worked out nicely. Now, he did not have the recirculation fitting, so we had to hook it up Vented. Well, normally I've heard of all the problems with this, but we messed around with it to see if we could get it to run right. So what I did was I went to advanced and found this plug. Its a metal cap with a bolt on the top and underneath is a black rubber donut with a metal piece on the other side and the bolt holding it together. I bought that, it was pretty close to diameter. So then I drove back, tried to get it to fit, to no avail. It was slightly too big for my recirc pipe. So then, I was messing with it and came up with an idea...and what I did was remove the bolt holding it together, and took out the black rubber piece and then test fitted the piece with out the rubber piece (just the 2 metal pieces with a bolt holding them together) and to my surprise, it fit right in the hole, snug. So i slipped in the first metal piece into the recirc valve, got it snug, then ran the bolt down the center. Then i put the other metal piece on the outside edge of the recirc pipe and ran the bolt through it and put the nut on the end. Then used a wrench to tighten her down, and it worked perfect. Then I started the car, and to my surprise...PERFECT idle...no stumbling...no surging...no noises....everything sounded stock. Revved it up and that some b**** growled and then blew off and went WAAAAAAAWOOOOOOOOOSHHHHHHHH with a faint whistle following it. DAMN it sounded great. Rpm's dropped back down to normal, had zero problems. So then I took it out on the street, dropped the clutch in first, roasted the tires, grabbed 2nd, chirped pretty good and that sumbitch pulled HARD. Didn't have any stumbling issues, no stalling issues, and no backfiring. On the drive back home, I even ran the heat on high while sitting at a red light, no surging idle and no stalls. The car is running great and I am sure it has to do with blocking the recirc pipe. I will keep everyone posted on how she does in the following days.
For the people who has done the Greddy RS...which is the best way to tune it (soft or hard) and can you provide a detailed description of how you have the set screw? I want to make sure I am spooling quick and hitting full boost...I noticed when I hit it, downlow, it seemed like it took a little longer before full power kicked in and I am sure this has to do with the stiffness of the spring. Any help, GREATLY appreciated!! But so far, I am very happy with the Greddy RS. Sounds and performs phenominal thus far.
For the people who has done the Greddy RS...which is the best way to tune it (soft or hard) and can you provide a detailed description of how you have the set screw? I want to make sure I am spooling quick and hitting full boost...I noticed when I hit it, downlow, it seemed like it took a little longer before full power kicked in and I am sure this has to do with the stiffness of the spring. Any help, GREATLY appreciated!! But so far, I am very happy with the Greddy RS. Sounds and performs phenominal thus far.
do you have a picture of this part you bought? and are you running it vented or recirculated, I wasn't getting how it was done. If vented did you plug your recirculation tube up?
to tune it, you want to make sure that its not leaking AT idle. You want to pop the hood and place a grocery bag or thin plastic bag over the side inlet where the air vents. look to see if the bag starts to get sucked in a little but, it will curve inwards into the bov. that means its leaking.
you then have to tighten the top screw on the valve until it stops sucking the bag in. you willwant to tighten it just a tad bit more than when the valve starts sucking because when you blow off and your vac drops all the way down it will suck slightly more than when it's stopped at idle (you'd see this if you have a boost/vac guage).
so the screw set harder is better than softer for this car? I am such a noob when it comes to tuning this thing, I've never messed with bov's before. When i was messing with it earlier...I turned it on and put my hand up to it and didn't feel any air sucking or blowing...but I will try the bag thing later. thanks man. any more input is greatly appreciated.
its not whats better as in softer or harder, its just adjusting it so it doesnt suck in. Feeling it with your hand you probably wond feel it, its very faint. try a grocery bag over the end and see if it bows inwards, it won't suck it in like a vacuum or anything.
if its sucking in, you should tighen it harder until the bag doesnt suck in anymore. once it stops sucking in tighten just a tad bit more to compensate for extra vac when you let off the gas and decelerate, that way it only opens when you blow off and at no other time.
hey post a video of yours like you did with the other one months ago
I will try to do that soon. This one sounds a million times better...its more of a WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOSHHHHHHHHH then makes an aggressive whistle as it settles down...man I love it . Its not too loud, its nice and subtle and sounds like a blow off should sound.
So you are 100% sure this is how I should tune it? How exactly did you learn that? Not questioning your IQ or anything, I am just trying to learn this for myself and wondering how you learned. Thanks for all the help bro. Gonna go try this now.
. Its not too loud, its nice and subtle and sounds like a blow off should sound. So you are 100% sure this is how I should tune it? How exactly did you learn that? Not questioning your IQ or anything, I am just trying to learn this for myself and wondering how you learned. Thanks for all the help bro. Gonna go try this now.
ok apparently it was tuned WAY too tight...I turned that thing a million times on the soft side...i couldn't get it to suck the bag in... I was wanting to suck the bag in, and then turn it a little harder till that stopped. well it was so tight, I couldn't even get it to suck the bag in. So i loosened it alot, and then took the car for a spin...wow...turbo is spooling much faster than it was yesterday and was spinning in 2nd gear with traction control on. sounds great, running great, and now the performance is right there with it. thanks alot man!...again! hahah
update: well i found out my RS is a knockoff, so i had to have a custom recirculate valve made. lucky i am very close to a machine shop in Richmond, and they made me one, for free So the car is hauling ass now, plus i installed my Test Pipe, so it likes to pull hard now .
o, i have about 4 threads showing out of the top of the BOV, and only the big spring left in. No whistle, No Turkey, just pull and crisp sound. I need to get some Teflon on the adjustment screw, because i noticed when i was adjusting it i could hear the whistle of the air getting past the screw. My Boost gauge is on the way, so i know if i over boost...
So the car is hauling ass now, plus i installed my Test Pipe, so it likes to pull hard now . o, i have about 4 threads showing out of the top of the BOV, and only the big spring left in. No whistle, No Turkey, just pull and crisp sound. I need to get some Teflon on the adjustment screw, because i noticed when i was adjusting it i could hear the whistle of the air getting past the screw. My Boost gauge is on the way, so i know if i over boost...
I will try to do that soon. This one sounds a million times better...its more of a WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOSHHHHHHHHH then makes an aggressive whistle as it settles down...man I love it
So you are 100% sure this is how I should tune it? How exactly did you learn that? Not questioning your IQ or anything, I am just trying to learn this for myself and wondering how you learned. Thanks for all the help bro. Gonna go try this now.
this is where i read up and learned about it, there are A LOT of good things to learn about bov's from this link here. 1/2 way down the page talks about how to adjust it, but it explains a lot of good info on bov's:
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/stpg.php?page_id=bov
I really want to vent my greddy type-s. I was talking to b-ron who is fully bolted up and he has the type-s vented, just capped his recirc tube and adjusted the spring. If i run vta i will need to put the second spring back in, but it's cold outside, i'll do it this week.
hey man take a pic of the cap you bought and a video of your sound, i'd like to hear it! You are lucky, lestat couldnt run his type-s or type-rs vta at all, and the OP of this thread couldnt run his type-rs vta either, you must be lucky yours is running perfectly without baskfires, stalling, and stuttering.
update: well i found out my RS is a knockoff, so i had to have a custom recirculate valve made. lucky i am very close to a machine shop in Richmond, and they made me one, for free
o, i have about 4 threads showing out of the top of the BOV, and only the big spring left in. No whistle, No Turkey, just pull and crisp sound. I need to get some Teflon on the adjustment screw, because i noticed when i was adjusting it i could hear the whistle of the air getting past the screw. My Boost gauge is on the way, so i know if i over boost...
4 threads!?!? wtf? I have like triple that man threads showing...im gonna get pics on my cell today and post up so everyone is clear on how mine is.
there is a very SLIGHT pop at low rpm's when shifting normal in 1st to 2nd gear shift...but its not like a gun going off or anything...and no, no stalling issues, perfect idle, and even at a stop with heat all the way on, no stalling issues. The difference is in capping/plugging the recirc tube. If you don't plug that, then yes, it will have those problems...thats how my car acted when I did my type s VTA with the recirc tube open with no plug or cap. It sounded like the car had cams in it and smoke was pouring out the back and it would stumble and stall.
mine is maybe 5-6 threads. 12 threads is like almost all the way out. But hey man if you are getting no air sucking in at idle (leaks), and no surging, and it drives fine and releases perfectly fine then you're probably fine!
I was going to do it yesterday but got lazy, but this week I will take off my type-s, cap the recirc tube and try to put the second spring back in and try it out vta. I believe that the type-rs is a better made valve so maybe thats why you can run yours vta and with so few turns on it
