ALL Unichip Questions / Problems

[Metallic36]

LOL I'm excited about that, I'll definitely let you know when I'll be up that way. What are the pros to methanol? Not too familiar with that.. but willing (shady)

Go methanol!

With all your mods, you could really have a bad ass car.

Plus if you come out here to get it tuned Harry is real good with methanol.

Also, I talked to him and he said it looks good on getting some dyno time. Yay! That means I'll finally get to tune my car with this "trash box."

 

[Knox Joe]

LOL I'm excited about that, I'll definitely let you know when I'll be up that way. What are the pros to methanol? Not too familiar with that.. but willing (shady)

Geez, it would take me forever to explain.

Just search methanol on here, and you'll find all the resources you need.

Basically detonation resistance, so you can either increase timing, or increase boost, without having to worry about knocking/detonation. The methanol water mixture cools combustion charges, and also has a side effect of steam cleaning your head, and internals. It has also been said to be the equivelant of increasing your octane rating greatly, but that is just the added resistance to knock.

 

[SleepyMSP]

I was always interested by meth injection but could never justify it to myself to get one.

Can the unichip work with meth injection on the stock tune without problems??

 

[Knox Joe]

I was always interested by meth injection but could never justify it to myself to get one.

Can the unichip work with meth injection on the stock tune without problems??

I've been running it on the stock map, so yeah you can do that. I just had an updated map from Unichip loaded though, so I'll let you know how it feels when I pick it up from the shop. Although, we might be getting dyno time before I pick it up, so when I get it back it may be tuned for 440s and methanol (and my other mods).

We'll see how long I can go on the stock block.

I think I need to buy another J&S unit. I should have never sold the one I had.

 

[SleepyMSP]

I think both a WB and J&S will be in my future either before or shortly after I decide to up the boost, just gotta get that greddy EBC first...so many things to buy so little money LOL

 

[Metallic36]

Curious to find out.. with the Unichip and J&S, and a GT28RS turbo, what is the max PSI that the Unichip could be tuned for? I know the PSI in the GT28RS is "stronger" than with the stock turbo, so just checking to see if the PSI number remains the same. Also curious to find out what the potential max is for HP with a Unichip, is there a limit where you need a standalone to acquire higher HP? I'm also going with meth injection.

 

[Knox Joe]

I'm also going with meth injection.

Awesome!

Your car is going to be a beast!

The gt28 will put out more whp per psi than the stocker.





Geez, I hate you, you have everything I want done to my car. I'm envious.

Really, I just need the J&S and built motor. How much did the motor run you? Did someone build it for you?

 

[Metallic36]

LOL When we get dyno time you'll have to be there to see it. I'm looking forward to that, and finally this car is almost freaking done. (rockon) I bought the rods/pistons, then had a guy hone/bore out the block, put everything in, then put the engine totally back together. Cost was around $680 for him to do that. But he was very meticulous. Then I paid a shop to put my engine back in, another $650, of which they didn't fill my tranny up with fluid, thus the result of having to pay another shop for a rebuilt tranny with the new OEM parts, but at least I got the LSD welded while they were at it.

Awesome!

Your car is going to be a beast!

The gt28 will put out more whp per psi than the stocker.

Geez, I hate you, you have everything I want done to my car. I'm envious.

Really, I just need the J&S and built motor.

 

[SleepyMSP]

damn...sometimes I think I should tear down my block and replace the internals just out of shear cost...cause once you pop the block the prices just get higher...and blowing out the stock internals can almost be inevitable

 

[Knox Joe]

Well I get the car back today with the new Unichip map, a level indicator for the methanol, and a LED to show me when the pump is actvated. The shop owner says the car feels much better now with the new map, and methanol tuned in.

I'll update everyone when I get her home after lunch.

 

[Metallic36]

Definitely want an update Did you get it tuned with the 440s?

Well I get the car back today with the new Unichip map, a level indicator for the methanol, and a LED to show me when the pump is actvated. The shop owner says the car feels much better now with the new map, and methanol tuned in.

I'll update everyone when I get her home after lunch.

 

[Knox Joe]

Okay, got it back earlier. It pulls pretty damn hard, not much of a difference from the old map, but with the methanol it feels like it pulls harder all the time, and it is hot as hades.

With the new map, it was just an updated map from Unichip from a car with intake, exhaust, and FMIC, I believe. I can't really tell a difference.

Didn't get the 440's in, waiting to do that on the dyno. Still haven't been able to get some time. It's a Porsche race shop, so it is hard to get time there.

I had a LED wired in to show me when the pump is on, and that is a pretty cool feature to have. Also, had a low level indicator LED put in, so that should come in handy.

I'll start a thread and show you guys how I mounted the methanol tank, it's in the engine bay, because there wasn't enough line to run it to the trunk. I relocated the battery, and that's about all I changed.

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123713245

 

[CHICO2003]

I've heard that some of the harnesses are mislabeled. I'm wondering if that' the case with mine.... For whatever reason, my AC (even though the light's on) doesn't blow cold when the 'ECU Power' switch is set to (I) like it's supposed to. Setting it to (0) (which, if I'm not mistaken, resets the ECU everytime I start the car) fixes that problem. Car doesn't necessarily feel any different but admittedly I haven't put it through it's paces to really find out. (I just came to this conclusion last night) Anyone have any advice?

 

[LASERBLUE135]

I took some time to figure out what is what on mine. When you switch the power to off, whether that is (I) or (O), your ecu will try to figure out the fuel again so your rpms will probably dip really low, like the car wants to stall. Your AC shouldn't be affected? don't think?

 

[HighwayUFO]

I just bought a "unichip" from a member here. It is labeled DASTEK Piggyback Computers, just wondering if this is in fact a genuine Unichip. Looks like everything for the most part is correct, three switches and an EBC. Did not recieve software and the shop I called said there should be a USB port for tuning and software. I'm not seeing a USB and got no instructions, no CD software disk.

Can anyone lend some insight. Did I get the right parts, do I need anything? I'm fairly certain I can get this installed myself, and will trailer the car to get it tuned.

Last question, does the Unichip control timing/ignition? I'm a noob to the chips. lol Any help is appreciated.

 

[SleepyMSP]

the dastek is the original before it became unichip. it is genuine. IIRC the map has not changed since then.

there never was any CD or self tuning capabilities for the unichip it needs to be done by a unichip tuner like JDMSam.

the parts you should have are:
1. wire harness
2. ECU box
3. EBC box
4. EBC
5. switches
6. wires to connect it all up

the unichip does play with the timing a bit so if you have cam gears I would reset them and work from there

 

[SleepyMSP]

by the looks of your sig you might have a problem with the unichip, its known that the unichip dosen't play nice with a relocated maf. ask JDMSam about them working together you may be able to fix it by getting it re-tuned...but not sure

 

[Notorious_V.I.C]

Hello all, I have a question. I talked to Unichip NA and they reccomended I completely uninstall the Unichip to see if its the unit, or something with the car.

Currently mods and SMIC,hardpipes, SRI, j-pipe, cat back...motor mount
Problem is that when i go to turn the engine on and crank it will just crank and the engine won't turn. I have to take the key out and try again.

I'm thinking it could be the starter??? I have a new battery and I was reassured by UNichip that the unit barely takes anything from the battery. Soo it could be a loose connection or something...I'm just lazy anyone wanna help out here??

 

[SleepyMSP]

make sure your switches are labeled correctly and the one for the ECU reset isn't set to off

 

[Notorious_V.I.C]

Yea, I checked that...switches are fine and the ECU switch is set to on (red light is on) I know its working but for some reason it still give you that delay of power...like once I get to 5k it pulls you back and the power in unleashed...hmm I might just sell this and get an AFC1 or something
Still takes time to turn the car on, just cranks and cranks...uh