So how long has the Cobb AP been out now? And still no dynos?

If that's worth $700 for you then buy it.

It's absolutely worth it. These are just the early version maps, slightly better than Mazda's but still made with a very broad brush to cover all conditions and areas. Once they release the software to the tuners, you can get a finer map more suited to where you live. At that point, you should see some much better gains.

I understand that its not a mod that will give you instant gratification in the form of noises, but its the foundation to making better than stock power in your car.
 
I like how the AP allows the MS3 to hold power past 5500. I think I am going to hold off on purchasing it until there are better maps, but only because I don't have 700USD laying around. :LOL:
 
It's absolutely worth it. These are just the early version maps, slightly better than Mazda's but still made with a very broad brush to cover all conditions and areas. Once they release the software to the tuners, you can get a finer map more suited to where you live. At that point, you should see some much better gains.

I understand that its not a mod that will give you instant gratification in the form of noises, but its the foundation to making better than stock power in your car.
And that, if true, is the best way to approach tuning.
 
i am switching to the new cobb FT map today will dyno it saturday - lets see if it makes a difference.

Harry
 
Ztuner go back to that site and check the first page in the thread. There is another update with a true all the way to redline full throttle map. It is the MSF specific map!
 
The guy over on the 6 forums running the standback and a gt3071 popped his engine a few days ago. AFR's were fine and everything so they attributed it to the engine basically having a max of 350whp before blowing.

I also find this hard to believe with the MZR. I agree with Destrux, there had to be other factors coming into play with the tuning. I've had multiple open deck honda motors tuned to over 300hp with stock internals and cast pistons. Over 400hp with just a set of forged pistons and upgraded fueling, this is on weak little honda rods. I have a hard time believing that a motor with forged internals running the compression it is, with the direct injection would have a problem running over 400hp. If you can tune a stock block honda 1.6l to 507hp with just a set of pistons and bolt-ons there should be no problem doing it with a 2.3l motor with forged internals and a much better fueling system.
 
I am curious as to weather anyone has tried out the econo setting. I'm wondering what the improvements were on the gas mileage.
 
ok i added the latest Stage 1 + Sri map with the following mods
SRi
Forge BPV - (made no difference other than sound IMO)
Ap - (obvious)
CS race pipe
CS mount inserts

I am still driving around waiting for the fuel trims etc to sort themselves out but seat of the pant impressions are ....
1. Smooth pull to 6500 , barely any power drop off
2. Boost hits 17.5 drops to 15.5
3. Shifting VASTLY improved with the inserts in the tranny mount

Initially the boost was hitting higher but its started to drop off. Maybe the ecu is setting lower limits - i don't know. Anyhow i will dyno it after i have a few miles on it, then reinstall the map to clear all trims and dyno it. I want to verify if this "learning" claim is BS or not :)

I will have my dashhawk soon so i will be able to post some logs to match the dynoes.

Soon after i will be installing the CS down pipe :)

stay tuned

Harry
 
Is anyone going to do that cp-e full control flash? It sounds like a nice mod...
 
Im gonna try this reflash, i just need to see how long my car will
be down, and if my mods are ok for this.
 
Maybe I'm missing something, but does it make sense to spend $399 for a CP-E flash when you can get a full throttle map with Cobb AP?
 
lets not forget the head ache of having your car down for a couple of days to send your pcm/ecu/ whatever you want to call the computer in to have it reflashed.
 
Just keep in mind this CP-E reflash is a one shot deal. Flash it and forget it. If you plan on tuning some more, it's really a waste of money if you figure $300 more gets you something that you can reflash at will. I had both a user tunable ECU and then a reflashed ECU for my RSX. The tunable one was just too much ECU for me and really overkill, so I went with the reflash and to be honest, I didn't feel too much of a difference between the two (I never got the tunable one dyno tuned).
 
1st dyno -256 whp, 263 ft lbs tq
Stock Mazda map
Cobb Sri
CS race pipe
Forge BPV

2nd dyno - 239 whp 243 ft lbs tq
Cobb AP - Stage 1+Sri 101msf
Cobb Sri
CS race pipe
Forge BPV

good news - race pipes work all over the rpm range. Makes between 7 - 10 whp and similar torque. Gets beter at higher rpms

bad news - 101msf map performs virtually identical to the old map. TPS shows 72 % on the DH and the AP

good news - the 101 map produced a smaller boost spike 17.5 vs 18.5 and it held boost higher longer. As a result there was a virtually 0 knock count vs the 2 - 3 with the stock tune.
AP tune still makes more power between 5700 and 6500. IMO mostly because it holds more boost and its leaner.

Besides this
AP tune is significantly leaner between 5500 to 6500 rpm
AP tune pulls between 2 - 4 deg in the spoolup area (2500 to 3500 rpm)
AP tune pulls virtually no timing between 3500 to 4500 rpm
Ap tune pulls 2 Deg at 5000, 4 deg at 5500, 6 deg by 6500 rpm

No question the AP tune is smoother in power delivery and produces a wider power band at the expense of peak power.

Dyno sheets are being compiled

Harry
 
Looking forward to the graphs, and and some good information posted Thanks. I imagine quite a few people here will appreciate your helpfulness with details and info!
 
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