P5 NA Build - Target 175whp

Typically, a water temp gauge will come with its own sendor. And without knowing the circuitry inside the gauge, I would speculate the each gauge is designed to look for the specific type of signal produced from its own sendor.

Just don't forget to ground the sender.
 
question about the water temp gauge... It is my understanding that the MT needs its own water temp sensor, so if i want to install a water temp gauge i would need another water temp sensor? Could i use the stock sensor for one of those readings or would my car end up having three water temp sensors... (one stock, one for MT, one for aftermarket gauge)

Microtech is configured to read off of the standard water temp gauge (you lose the dummy gauge in the instrument cluster) - it can then output the info to a microtech dash display if you have one.

another water temp gauge will come with/need its own sensor, which can be added inline, using a purpose made t-piece (lots of people sell them), or you can have it fitted to the plate that the stock water temp gauge is currently fitted (AusOrion did this, its pretty good).

Water temp gauges are almost always temperature sensitive resistors....but configuration is important, as different ranges of resistance mean different ranges in temperature.
 
I like gauges, but when really thrashing the car, I tend to just watch where I'm going (and where the others are going too). That's why I like the idea of a bright Master Caution light or similar. The emanage Ultimate I have can only handle 2 warnings though.

I had to make a new rule for myself recently: NO hard cornering with the low fuel light on! Scary engine surge while giving it heaps accelerating out of corners. Imagine doing that under boost or really stressed NA.
 
I like gauges, but when really thrashing the car, I tend to just watch where I'm going (and where the others are going too). That's why I like the idea of a bright Master Caution light or similar. The emanage Ultimate I have can only handle 2 warnings though.

I had to make a new rule for myself recently: NO hard cornering with the low fuel light on! Scary engine surge while giving it heaps accelerating out of corners. Imagine doing that under boost or really stressed NA.

fuel surge? get a swirl pot.... i know its usually a "turbo" thing but if you are experiencing it on an NA motor, its well worth the investment....

Master caution would be cool..next best thing is gauges that beep and carry on and flash and so forth when something hits a threshold ;)
here a beep, back the f*** off.

Microtech dash will warn if something goes haywire.....usually on temperatures (as thats all it can really read)
 
^^^ sure ^^^


Update ( not terribly exciting though :()
Shims should be in this week and the motor going in to the car next week.
 
I just stopped by the shop this morning and cams still arent installed. All the needed shims are in. It seems like they work on my car whenever they have free time and everything else comes first. Well see if he gets anything done this week....
 
that sucks! hopefully the next time we here from you, you'll have some good news for us and some pics! haha. good luck!
 
Well i was happy about this news until i found out about my cam gear problem....

Car should be ready to startup on Friday but may have to push it back for safety reasons.
 
The stocko cam gears are back in, which i guess took a little bit lonbger than expected. The shop really wants to get this done before the start of next week. So i still might be able to go for a drive this weekend yet. I just hope it doesnt blow up when we try to start it up for the first time.
 
The stocko cam gears are back in, which i guess took a little bit lonbger than expected. The shop really wants to get this done before the start of next week. So i still might be able to go for a drive this weekend yet. I just hope it doesnt blow up when we try to start it up for the first time.

Youll be right - if the shop knows what they are doing they'll get her started, get a good tune on it, break it in on the dyno and you should be ready to go.

We all want numbers, and sound bites, and videos etc etc ;)
 
When people say "break it in on the dyno", does that mean that they are actually "driving" the magical required miles to break in the engine on the dyno rollers?
 
When people say "break it in on the dyno", does that mean that they are actually "driving" the magical required miles to break in the engine on the dyno rollers?

how long do you think a break in ACTUALLY takes?

loading the motor up on a dyno can break in a motor faster, under greater control (some dude is standing there to keep an eye on AFRs and deto etc). A dyno is a rolling road, and is no different to driving on the street....the better dynos can also simulate driving up hills and so on....

There is some pretty strong evidence that a short, HARD break in is better than a long, drawn out bunch of pussyfooting around for thousands of miles...
 
There is some pretty strong evidence that a short, HARD break in is better than a long, drawn out bunch of pussyfooting around for thousands of miles...

Agreed! i followed the manual and after supposively breaking it in still had bearing pieces at the bottom of the oil pan. so i replaced them again and did not necessarily get on it, but did some high rpm shifting. the motor felt very strong rather than before. but then again it's a dsm so there's no comparison!
 
Agreed! i followed the manual and after supposively breaking it in still had bearing pieces at the bottom of the oil pan. so i replaced them again and did not necessarily get on it, but did some high rpm shifting. the motor felt very strong rather than before. but then again it's a dsm so there's no comparison!

Yeah, apparently you get a better seal on the rings....following "manufacturer" break ins has a tendency to wash/polish the rings....and i've heard that you can get a bunch of not so good side effects, such as constantly burning oil, reduced power and so forth.

I'm not saying "buy a new engine, THRASH THE HELL OUT OF IT".....but do some reading about how to break a performance motor in.... as long as its on a dyno, and there is a reputable tuner standing by (as well as, if possible, your engine builder), you'll be safe as houses - and get a better result for your trouble.

Of course, you should listen to your engine builder when it comes to breaking in, and discuss with them as to whats best, as just going off and doing your own thing may void warrenties etc on an expensive newly built engine....i'm simply putting it out there that being a nancy boy about breaking in isn't the only way to do it, and its not necessarily the best way either :)
 
+1

do you ever hear of guys with crotch rockets going easy for the first 500 miles? NO they goose it within the first 5 miles. I agree with the hard break in theory but like LW said you still need to be smart about it. Engine at operating temps, vary the rpms but dont be afraid to put a little load on it (I would still wait a couple hundred miles to red line it...)
 

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