The MS6 Build-a-Beast is coming very soon...(Pics)

well, my tuner started tuning my MS6 last night. He got idle and normal driving perfect. We are having problems with fuel cut on the WOT runs tho. I removed my ATP FCD because I was told that the CP-E EMS can regulate when fuel cut hits via a "MAP clamp." So I told the tuner this and he was looking through the entire program for a map clamp option and couldnt find it. So we read through the instruction a little and found a "Fuel Cut Voltage" option in the Boost Controller tab. Since the MAF voltage was only hitting around 3.??, my tuner set the fuel cut voltage to 4.90. The car was still hitting fuel cut. He's going to call cp-e tommorow and find out why fuel cut is still occuring. Also I have a 12-14psi adjustable wastegate with a forge MBC on the lowest setting and my car is still hitting 18psi. So we are trying to figure out what the problem is. If anyone has any input please share.
 
its got nothing to do with the map clamp. i can assure you of this. Setting it to 4.90 volts is as wrong as it could be. 18psi is around 4.2 volts, anything higher than that will cut out. As for why you are still hitting fuel cut. Fuel pump? outside temps? this car cuts out when its cold out and you start a pull down low. it has something to do with the maf temp sensor. Thats all i know for now.
 
its got nothing to do with the map clamp. i can assure you of this. Setting it to 4.90 volts is as wrong as it could be. 18psi is around 4.2 volts, anything higher than that will cut out. As for why you are still hitting fuel cut. Fuel pump? outside temps? this car cuts out when its cold out and you start a pull down low. it has something to do with the maf temp sensor. Thats all i know for now.

i dont quite understand. If you set the fuel cut voltage above the voltage that the car is making, why would fuel cut be triggered? I have the upgraded fuel pump and the temps outside were above freezing. Anyways, my tuner is going to call cp-e and ask them what to do. If all else fails, the ATP FCD is going back on.
 
Clamping the MAF and clamping the MAP should get you to 20psi. I hope Im wrong about the MAP but Im pretty sure that its only good for 20psi even clamped. We have my exed clamped down to 1volt I believe and we still hit fuel cut in the cold weather. It seems to be because of boost creep. At about 5500rpms the boost starts to creep past 20psi and then at about 6300rpms in 4th gear we hit fuel cut. Never had that problem when the temperture is above 70F. Good luck my friend. If you cant get past 23psi Im selling my fuckn car.
 
can someone show me where the maf and map clamps are in the cp-e program? also, the atp fcd will eliminate fuel cut if i have to.
 
i dont quite understand. If you set the fuel cut voltage above the voltage that the car is making, why would fuel cut be triggered? I have the upgraded fuel pump and the temps outside were above freezing. Anyways, my tuner is going to call cp-e and ask them what to do. If all else fails, the ATP FCD is going back on.

lol, it doesnt work like that. The map cuts fuel at around 4.2 volts, if it sees anything higher than that it will cut it. What your tuner is doing is telling the maf that it can see a max value of 4.8 which is way to high. Set the clamp to around 3.2-3.5
 
i dont quite understand. If you set the fuel cut voltage above the voltage that the car is making, why would fuel cut be triggered? I have the upgraded fuel pump and the temps outside were above freezing. Anyways, my tuner is going to call cp-e and ask them what to do. If all else fails, the ATP FCD is going back on.

You cannot tune your car with the standback or exed in combo with the ATP FCD. It lies to both systems about the map pressure. The car controlls timing mainly off of map pressure and if its reading 20psi and your hitting 25psi your timing will be all wrong....and then boom!!!!! Take my word for it. We've already tried and we got A REAL BIG KNOCK. We even took it to another tuner and he tried the same thing and had the same results. If you look at the last dyno I posted you will see at the top of the RPM range it gets all freakn crazy. Thats because of the timing. I had the ATP FCD on in combo with the exde. BAD IDEA. Once we took it off and clamped the map down more we only hit 20psi but it was smooth as a babys butt all the way across.
 
lol, it doesnt work like that. The map cuts fuel at around 4.2 volts, if it sees anything higher than that it will cut it. What your tuner is doing is telling the maf that it can see a max value of 4.8 which is way to high. Set the clamp to around 3.2-3.5

I gotta question the intelligence of chris's tuner if I he doesnt know that lowering the voltage will help eliminate fuel cut.(notcool)
 
You cannot tune your car with the standback or exed in combo with the ATP FCD. It lies to both systems about the map pressure. The car controlls timing mainly off of map pressure and if its reading 20psi and your hitting 25psi your timing will be all wrong....and then boom!!!!! Take my word for it. We've already tried and we got A REAL BIG KNOCK. We even took it to another tuner and he tried the same thing and had the same results. If you look at the last dyno I posted you will see at the top of the RPM range it gets all freakn crazy. Thats because of the timing. I had the ATP FCD on in combo with the exde. BAD IDEA. Once we took it off and clamped the map down more we only hit 20psi but it was smooth as a babys butt all the way across.

wrong, the map sensor controls neither timing nor fuel.
 
CALL Ken and ask him. (Maybe not on the standback)

claming the map at 5 volts are 0 volts is what the standback does correct? cpe said it themselves. hell they even tell people to clamp the signal at 10psi. now if your running 18psi like alot of poeple are and have it clamped to 10, don't you think it would go boom?

i had the cpe piggy back.....i got rid of it for obvious reasons.

the problem is not map related, its temperature related. one of the temp sensor either in the maf or somehwere else has to be fooled.
 
No because you can still run stock timing at 18psi without tuning.. 18psi on a the stocker is way different on a gt30. But Im sure you know that. Dude we've tuned this car so many times its sickning. Im telling you to call ken because he can explain it better. How else would it detect timing and make changes if it not by map or maf voltage?
 
How else would the ECU know that the car is hitting 20psi and fuelcut or adjust timing without knowing the manifold pressure?
 
No because you can still run stock timing at 18psi without tuning.. 18psi on a the stocker is way different on a gt30. But Im sure you know that. Dude we've tuned this car so many times its sickning. Im telling you to call ken because he can explain it better. How else would it detect timing and make changes if it not by map or maf voltage?

not via map. let me as you a question, what is your timing at whatever psi you are running right now. if its no higher than 13-14 you just prooved my point.
 
not via map. let me as you a question, what is your timing at whatever psi you are running right now. if its no higher than 13-14 you just prooved my point.

I honestly couldnt tell you. All of my logs are on Kens laptop. But I can tell you what Ken said what the tuner at P&L in chicago, IL said. Both are very reputable tuners. The guy from P&L is a well respected and well known subaru tuner. Now again, The exed is controlling timing threw map and maf voltage Im not sure about the standback.(monkey)
 
It wont be till tomorrow. I cant make it down to the garage till then and Ken is busy so he couldnt tell me over the phone.
 
It is deffinately map related. But, it's also temp related. I think the ecu has a preset relationship that the map and maf AND rail pressure sensor need to stay within. He's got the bigger pump, so his rail pressure isn't dropping out (I would imagine). the map isn't coorelating with the other sensors because it's clamped. The ecu is seeing a low map and a high maf and a really high rail pressure. Of coarse it's going to freak out. Clamping voltages worked for a while, but we're getting to the point where it's not going to work. Well, it could if you clamp everything, but that's called a standalone. This ecu is adaptive and it does a pretty good job of that. Hell, that fact that Chris's car ran at all is proof of that. I bet if you pull the clamp(s), most of your issues will be gone. Either that, or use a standalone and clamp everything. Just my $0.02.
 
Last edited:

New Threads and Articles

Back