PG Pump Installed

ps. I forgot to tell you I weighed my car the other day. quarter tank of gas and no spare tire and jack. 2970. Not to shabby
 
i went in at 3169 with me in it and im 6'5 210. So it should be right around hwere yours is. I dont know how accurate the the scale is because the other time it was 3360 with me in lol, weird
 
great results once again. now you see why i'm so happy ;). glad i could answer questions for you and what not laloosh.

knowing that you're probably one of the best (if not the best) driver at the track here, do you have time slips? i believe you, you're not one to make stuff up, but as said earlier, people like paper.
 
Ive seen that article, but when I try to view it now, it won't let me view the 2nd page without signing up and paying. Can you see the 2nd page?

From what I remember, the innovate and eugo were really close, with a slight edge doing to the eugo. am I correct or am I forgetting something?
 
the uego and the innovate use the same physical sensor. its the unit that displays the signal itself which makes the difference. honestly i think the AEM is great. it responds very fast compared to the innovate unit i also own.
 
i don't think 1 psi - especially if it is untuned/zeroed out as it says - is going to do much, especially not shave a half second off your time in the 13s. it takes an exponential increase to do that once you are in that bracket.

i don't want people to think this is the magic key to reach 400whp either. i'm not a fan of pushing 350+ on stock internals regardless of how well tuned the car is. i do think its going to make a big difference for a lot of people.

I beg to differ Ken.. They said this on Ford, especially with lightnings that only had these sorry ass coated semi forged pistons with non forged rods.. i ran over 540HP to the rear wheels on that motor for 4 years with no issues.

350 on these engines is nothing when tuned correctly. These Rods are so tiny, they arent going to go exit left. If you keep it at below 11.3, your pistons arent going to give you to much trouble. Im willing to test this shortblock soon :)
 
uhh i have it done in my speed.. why dont u give this guy a chance.atleast hes putting an effort in like i did.. and ull never see 400hp without breaking ur motor with these cars internals suck. and a walbro plus the PG pump should mean results should be 50% better then stock. personally id listen to ken i dont trust my motor at all with everyone blowing them up on the 6 side.. now with the right modifications and a good tune i think we'll see some good numbers and a less of a risk of blowing s*** up.

Learn how to tune your car and you wont see it destroyed. Common Sense my friend, it goes along way. That intank pump supplies the fuel to the high pressure pump.. Thats all its going to do. Waste of time and money tp upgrade that pump anytime soon. As for these people are blowing their motors up in the 6 side for what reason? Yea. look at their mods and the safety behind them. I dont want to act like an ass, but any moron can put parts on their car and go beat on it. I cant believe the countless post i run across on here where people are tuning via piggy back with no wideband meter installed and playing " guess the calibrations ". Or the classic, bolt the big turbo on with no tuning, fuel or monitoring.. smart decision, lemme tell ya.
 
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I beg to differ Ken.. They said this on Ford, especially with lightnings that only had these sorry ass coated semi forged pistons with non forged rods.. i ran over 540HP to the rear wheels on that motor for 4 years with no issues.

350 on these engines is nothing when tuned correctly. These Rods are so tiny, they arent going to go exit left. If you keep it at below 11.3, your pistons arent going to give you to much trouble. Im willing to test this shortblock soon :)

thats cool my friend, got a shortblock and some internals here with your name on it :)

90% of the people who have popped these motors and bought new ones from me have done so under 10:1 or 11:1 rich conditions and have shot rods through the block. air fuel ratios alone will not guarantee a safe tune, lots of other factors at play here.

i'd like to see 350whp or 400whp, long term reliable, daily driven stock block DISI powered mazdas. i am sure there will be people that can pull it off. i do not forsee it being the norm.
 
I beg to differ Ken.. They said this on Ford, especially with lightnings that only had these sorry ass coated semi forged pistons with non forged rods.. i ran over 540HP to the rear wheels on that motor for 4 years with no issues.

350 on these engines is nothing when tuned correctly. These Rods are so tiny, they arent going to go exit left. If you keep it at below 11.3, your pistons arent going to give you to much trouble. Im willing to test this shortblock soon :)

Your lightning had twice the engine to work with also you have to remember that. I've seen the inside of Lightning engines and the inside of DISI engines and I can tell you that the mazdas are alot weaker and like said many times before it's not just AFR's that make your car run for ever. We have tuned the crap out of a Speed6 and can't get it past 330 AWHP because of limitations like Fuel and the throttle backing off. MY budy was pushing 511whp on his SRT-4 with a tune at roughly 10.5:1 and realy low EGT's but after about 4 months there went a few rods through his block and valves in the oil pan because the pressure you push at that point is going to put a shitload of pressure on those stock pistons.
 
Wasted your money and your time with an intank pump and that is NOT going to solve the high pressure fuel starvation on these cars. Wont work, dont bother.

Ge the HP pump from PG, get your car on the dyno and with that GTR- turbo of yours, you should see damn near 400 hp if not more if properly tuned...

Learn how to tune your car and you wont see it destroyed. Common Sense my friend, it goes along way. That intank pump supplies the fuel to the high pressure pump.. Thats all its going to do. Waste of time and money tp upgrade that pump anytime soon. As for these people are blowing their motors up in the 6 side for what reason? Yea. look at their mods and the safety behind them. I dont want to act like an ass, but any moron can put parts on their car and go beat on it. I cant believe the countless post i run across on here where people are tuning via piggy back with no wideband meter installed and playing " guess the calibrations ". Or the classic, bolt the big turbo on with no tuning, fuel or monitoring.. smart decision, lemme tell ya.

Bull s***. Do you have one installed? Have you been driving around with one? Then shut the hell up because you don't know what the **** you're talking about. According to my fluid dynamics book, when you have a dual pump system (in series), and you increase the rate of one, it will in turn increase the rate of the other, regardless of what side of the system you upgrade. It's simple. If the CDFP has more fuel available to it at a faster rate and higher pressure, then the force it is exerting on the fuel (which is controlled ONLY by the speed of the camshaft) will move more of it faster and at a higher pressure. I'm not saying it solves everything but I have installed one, and it does make things a hell of alot smoother. I didn't reset my battery when I did it, so I know it's not the ECU ******* with me. The gurgling and poping has calmed down quite a bit, and it feels a bit torque-ier. On top of that, I haven't triggered a fuel cut once since I removed my ATP Boost Cut Eliminator (a day and a half after swapping pumps) even though it's dropped 45*F since the swap. I'd say it's a little more than a waste of time and money. How about the next time you want to make claims about something with which you have no experience, you just don't. That would really make things better.
 
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Hey laloosh just so im on the same with you guys, what all mods do you have done now with the new fuel pump?? were you hitting fuel cut alot before this?
 
And now that you're holding boost longer, is the throttle plate staying open longer as well? I believe the throttle plate closing in the upper rpms was the major cause of the boost dropping off. Maybe now that you have more fuel available, the ECU no longer closes the throttle plate. Can you log throttle position with the standback?
CP-e tells me that this is not the case.


Now I'm really confused ;) If thats not the case then how come your website states this:

Also, because there is more fuel available, the throttle plate stays open longer, with less of a dance for more power to redline. This is because the throttle plate doesn’t need to limit air intake because of the fuel pressure drop from the pump. The pressure drop is no more.

So does the throttle plate stay open longer with the new pump?

Laloosh, did you log throttle and boost as well as pump pressure? If so can you post it?
 
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