GI: 03.5 Titanium with only 7031 miles

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I (and I'm sure others, too) would be interested in a stock(ish) MSP with low miles and meticulously maintained. I just don't want to fork over $17k for one and have to go through the trouble of returning it to stock and selling the mods. You'd have a far easier time selling by doing that yourself and making more money on the mods. Would benefit both of us: you'd sell the car, make more money on the mods than if you sold them with the car, and I'd get the MSP I want at the price I want. :)
 
We'll that's part of the problem I guess as I don't have the stock suspension and I don't have the stock wheels.

Most of the other stuff I do have to return it close to stock.

Let me ask you, what would you be willing to pay if it was fairly close to stock with the TEIN SS suspension and the wheels?

Mark
 
I don't understand why you would take these mods off anyway? it probably runs a 100 times better now than in the stock condition.
 
just wondering, out of everything you did, but still have rubber brake lines?

i've contemplated buying and using everything on my LX msp build... that suspension would be hella sweet. then selling it stock, or stockish....
but i would HATE to ruin someones good work
 
I don't understand why you would take these mods off anyway? it probably runs a 100 times better now than in the stock condition.

I definitely don't want to do it but I may have to do it eventually if I want to sell it. I'm getting older (31) with a daughter who will be here in 3.5 weeks so just the thought of crawling on the ground to remove parts isn't one I'm fond of, not to mention that I won't have too much time to do it.

It definitely is a much smoother car to drive with the mods but I understand if someone wants as close to a stock car as possible.

daonly1around - I still have the original brake rotors too, I didn't see the need to upgrade the lines if I still have the stock rotors and calipers. The braking is more than adequate on this car. The car stops on a dime compared to my Fit so in this case I didn't want to mess with a good thing. On the other hand, if I went forged and upped the boost I might have needed more braking power and would have went with a BBK or at least upgraded the rotors and lines.

Like I've mentioned before though, I'm a shower and not a goer so I never push this car or take it to a track where braking is an issue. The car brakes fine for me when I take it out.

If the new owner feels it is necessary, that is something they can do :)

If you've been contemplating buying mine to convert your LX into an MSP, why wouldn't you just keep mine and sell your LX rather than stripping mine and selling it stock? Seems like a lot of work unless you think you can make money stripping mine and selling it close to stock.

Mark
 
just wondering, out of everything you did, but still have rubber brake lines?

i've contemplated buying and using everything on my LX msp build... that suspension would be hella sweet. then selling it stock, or stockish....
but i would HATE to ruin someones good work

just sell your LX and buy this! Why have a replica when you could own the real deal!
 
We'll that's part of the problem I guess as I don't have the stock suspension and I don't have the stock wheels.

Most of the other stuff I do have to return it close to stock.

Let me ask you, what would you be willing to pay if it was fairly close to stock with the TEIN SS suspension and the wheels?

Mark

If the TEINs and wheels must come with the car, then I've hilighted the mods that I'd be interested in keeping on the car:

- Rockblocker hood/headlight/foglight protection film
- Expel front bumper and lower lip protection film
- DG Carbon Fiber Grill (have stock grill)
- Authentic DaveB gauge rings
- 2 sets of floor mats - 03 MazdaSpeed floor mats and 03.5 MazdaSpeed floor mats
- 18x7.5" Arospeed RS-GT wheels with Khumo 215/35/ZR-18 tires (have about 1000 miles on them)
- Tein SS coilover suspension with about 1000 miles on them (installed at the same time as the wheels)
- Evolv clunk fix kit (new brackets and greasable poly bushings)
- Red painted calipers

So it's really up to you how much money you can make parting out the rest. I'm not a fan of the wheels, so I'd definitely have to take into consideration the trouble of getting a new set and selling the RS-GTs. Just FYI that as we speak, I'm parting out my own car and looking to sell very soon, and your car is on the short list of possible replacements.

A question, though:

... I do beleive that I have the sub rack rattle though. No clunk thanks to the EVOLV clunk fix.

Is this still a problem? If so, what is the fix? Rattles drive me up the wall.
 
Well if you could bring your own set of wheels (even steelies) then I would hold onto the wheels also to sell. The other stuff you want would be fine to keep on the car.

I could remove the GTspec v-brace panel, trailing links and get the car aligned for you since that will throw it out of spec - this isn't a problem.

Unichip, the stage 1 and stage 2 Essential Speed kit, 4 point ladder bar, coolant reservoir, GReddy SP2, splitters, wheels, shift boot, shift knob, ebrake boot could all be removed if the price is right.

There are other things that I can't take off:
1. you said you wanted the front end protection (that's a given and has to go with the car because once you remove it is useless
2. the polished heatshield (unless you had another to trade me or wanted the car without a heatshield
3. I could take out the foglights, but the switch to turn them on has been mounted in one of the blank clips next to the coin tray. If I remove them you would be left with a hole in that clip or be left with a switch that does nothing
4. Under dash neons - same as above concerning the switch
5. The boost gauge and air/fuel meter in the pod. I painted the pod to match perfectly with SEM paint but I'm not a wiring wiz and took it to professionals to install. I am not willing to mess with removing those gauges (you should have a boost gauge in these cars anyway).
6. You have to have the longer AXR endlinks for the fronts. I couldn't get the stock ones back on once I installed the TEIN suspension (they were just too short). I have the stock rear endlinks and they could be put back on but the front have to stay.

That's about it.

As for the sub rack rattle, I'm not sure. I thought I had it but it seemed to disappear a few days after installing the evolve clunk fix brackets. It was probably tied to the sway bar but it was so hard to figure out where noises were coming from back there. Those greasable bushings worked wonders.

If you know anyone in my area, have them stop by and I'd be more than willing to show the car.

Mark
 
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reason i would do that is i already have everything for the turbo build, and also insurance, turbo and DUI don't go together...

plus i couldn't get near what i would want for it,

also white MSP lookalikes are hot...
 
so is that before you went to the upgraded side mount?

I don't have an upgraded side mount. The Essential Speed Stage 1 and 2 kit consisted of Stainless hardpipes, HKS BOV and Spearco core FMIC with Essential Speed end tanks. I upgraded even further and had the kit polished and bought red TurboHoses silicone couplers.

I don't think I mention anywhere that I have a SMIC.

Mark
 
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