Jay- Killer Dashhawk Advertisment (I know u didn't mean it.). Kudos to your dedication to making your post interesting to read.
Now that we all know what it can do. Can someone post an example of what bad readings would be?
For example:
How hot is too hot for intake and engine temps?
What readings should I look for if boost is too low or too high?
Jay- What are your presets for your light indicators?
What are the critical things to look for if I were to display 5 readings at a time?
What is the priority of things worth looking at?
What reading would tell me that my exhaust would be black if its too high, and not black at all if too low.
My MS3 hasn't received any flashes or Recall fixes, since I'm Germany. Not sure what a German-spec flash would do to a US-spec car. Curious to know what the "standard" US-Spec readings should be if I flashed it by a German dealership. Not sure if any of this makes sense, but it did at the time I started rambling.
I bet you guys all hate noobs.
i'm jealous that i didn't get a good tip too
lol -- i feel so left out (sad2)
EDIT: nevermind, I found it
stupid me, I forgot I was a member, lol
Sorry, I've been on vacation. Anyways, I'm not sure off all the appropriate alert setting for our vehicle. For now I just set a few to what I think is resonable. I think that once we have some good tuning solutions and more people start really tuning the MS3, we'll get a better idea what the limits are.
And wolverine81, it just plugs directly into the OBDII port as mentioned previously. When you asked how I mounted it, I just assumed you meant how it is mounted on my steering column as shown in the pics. Sorry about the confusion.
Actually, I am curious about how you mounted it to the steering wheel and how you ran the cable. Does the cable show or did you run it behind the dash somehow? Can you leave it plugged in all the time (basically is it ok to start the car with it plugged in)?
Oh ok. I ran the cable from the OBDII port up the side of the steering column. All of the excess cable is tucked underneath the steering column in the empty space. The only cable that is really visible is the few inches immediately coming out of the port and the few inches sticking out of the back of the gauge. And yes you can leave it plugged in all of the time. It powers up/down with the car.
Does the dashhawk read air/fuel ratios?
How does it read boost?
One quick question on the DashHawk. I know it can alert your visually to shift, but does it also have a shift alarm like a beep?
I got a reply about the availability of this gauge. It's pricey but the features are awesome.Here is another entry into this field. This thing is awesome. Totally customizable 52mm display. You can design your own graphics, set colors any way you like, display up to 4 OBDII parameters, warnings, alerts, check engine codes, data logging, and more.
http://www.plxdevices.com/NewsLetters/DM200OBD/DM-200ProductAnnouncement.htm
Too bad it is not available for a few more weeks. I have requested more info.
From the stock MAP sensor. The ECU measures boost so that it can control it with the stock boost solenoid.
No I don't believe it makes any sound when the alert is triggered. Just changes color of the display.
do i need to use math to get boost also?
Which option is that on the dashhawk?
I got a reply about the availability of this gauge. It's pricey but the features are awesome.
"The DM-200 will be available Feb. 2008 cost on DM-200OBD $399.00 and DM-200 $259.00 and we are also taking preorders now. Yes it will work on your 07 Mazda"
Nope no math needed. It does the math for you (MAP-Barometric Pressure). Its under the air PIDs. Its called Vac/Boost
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Damn! I wonder why so much? I'd be interested in seeing a full spec sheet that breaks down what all of its capabilities are. And I believe the website lists it as a 60mm gauge not 52mm.
How close is the dashhawk with reading boost is it right?
I just wanted to know because im turning my boost up and i wanna be safe.
I don't know what the specs on the factory MAP and Barometric pressure sensors are but I would assume they're pretty good. Our cars ECU couldn't control boost to 15.6 psi if the pressure sensor readings were crap.
But if you use the ATP boost cut defender thingy in conjunction with a MBC to raise boost, then any boost readings greater than 15.6 psi from the OBDII port will be false. This is because the ATP thingy bleeds off pressure in excess of 15.6 to the MAP sensor, even though the real manifold pressure is greater than that due to the MBC. You would need a seperate boost gauge to know what boost you're running.