turbo timer help
- Thread starter wfmrules3
- Start date
I tried a different ground and the same thing happened. I dont get it? It drops down to zero rpms when you turn the key once and when you turn it again they just back up to idle. Any other suggestions. I used the same wires and the ground is ok. Where did you guys ground yours? Thanks again for the help
I used the instructions that were posted. I connected all the same wires. Everytime i shut the car off i just give it a little rev and take the key out really fast. It is a pain in the ass. My friend has a msp and he said his did it for the first couple days and then it just stopped but mine has been doing it for about a month. Any suggestions. Thanks again
do it exactly like it says in the instructions:
".........Using a volt meter, I found no difference between the two RED wires. I did find a difference between the two BLUE wires, one of them does not supply the 12V when in the start position.
If you look at the end of the harness/plug with the 2 RED wires on top, I used the RED wire and BLUE wire that are one above the other, and I used the BLACK/WHITE wire that is next to the blue wire
(NOTE: there is a BLACK/YELLOW wire next to a BLUE wireI did not use either of those)."
".........Using a volt meter, I found no difference between the two RED wires. I did find a difference between the two BLUE wires, one of them does not supply the 12V when in the start position.
If you look at the end of the harness/plug with the 2 RED wires on top, I used the RED wire and BLUE wire that are one above the other, and I used the BLACK/WHITE wire that is next to the blue wire
(NOTE: there is a BLACK/YELLOW wire next to a BLUE wireI did not use either of those)."
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lol ^
this problem exists in every MSP......we've been battling with it for over a year.
then some genious came in and solver the problem.
2 wires have to be cut.
Cut the pin 6 orange wire at the alarm brain 2 inches up (diagram on bottom of alarm) then take the alarm side of the wire (the side of the wire still connected to the alarm) and tap it into the thick black orange wire coming out of the alarm harness. Then tape up the car side of the orange wire.
The orange wire going to the alarm control module. That wire gives 12V when the ignition is in the ON position, 0V if not in the ON position. If you cut it then the alarm will always think the car is off (but it doesn't affect the alarm operation otherwise).
Cut blue/white wire at keyless module. The alarm is not armed by itself, it is alarmed by the remote door locking system. That sensor is located behind the back seats right about in the center underneath the plastic that is below the back window. It is very close to the seats so all you have to to is put down the seats, take out the little plastic pieces that hold the plastic cover and just fold it up a bit. Cut and properly insulate the engine side of the blue/white wire. All that wire does is provide the 12V when your ignition is in the ON position, and 0V when not. So by cutting both your remote door lock and your alarm will never know if the engine is running and you can activate them anytime (including when the car is running down using the turbo timer).
this problem exists in every MSP......we've been battling with it for over a year.
then some genious came in and solver the problem.
2 wires have to be cut.
Cut the pin 6 orange wire at the alarm brain 2 inches up (diagram on bottom of alarm) then take the alarm side of the wire (the side of the wire still connected to the alarm) and tap it into the thick black orange wire coming out of the alarm harness. Then tape up the car side of the orange wire.
The orange wire going to the alarm control module. That wire gives 12V when the ignition is in the ON position, 0V if not in the ON position. If you cut it then the alarm will always think the car is off (but it doesn't affect the alarm operation otherwise).
Cut blue/white wire at keyless module. The alarm is not armed by itself, it is alarmed by the remote door locking system. That sensor is located behind the back seats right about in the center underneath the plastic that is below the back window. It is very close to the seats so all you have to to is put down the seats, take out the little plastic pieces that hold the plastic cover and just fold it up a bit. Cut and properly insulate the engine side of the blue/white wire. All that wire does is provide the 12V when your ignition is in the ON position, and 0V when not. So by cutting both your remote door lock and your alarm will never know if the engine is running and you can activate them anytime (including when the car is running down using the turbo timer).
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it works!!!
thanks man(naughty)
a few months back, i did cut the 12V switched from the alarm module. but it didn't work. I didn't know that i have to cut the keyless entry module 12v+ switched wire.
Did it just now (cut the blue/white wire), it worked!
Thanks a million(2thumbs)
thanks man(naughty)
a few months back, i did cut the 12V switched from the alarm module. but it didn't work. I didn't know that i have to cut the keyless entry module 12v+ switched wire.
Did it just now (cut the blue/white wire), it worked!
Thanks a million(2thumbs)
Dr.Sound said:lol ^
this problem exists in every MSP......we've been battling with it for over a year.
then some genious came in and solver the problem.
2 wires have to be cut.
Cut the pin 6 orange wire at the alarm brain 2 inches up (diagram on bottom of alarm) then take the alarm side of the wire (the side of the wire still connected to the alarm) and tap it into the thick black orange wire coming out of the alarm harness. Then tape up the car side of the orange wire.
The orange wire going to the alarm control module. That wire gives 12V when the ignition is in the ON position, 0V if not in the ON position. If you cut it then the alarm will always think the car is off (but it doesn't affect the alarm operation otherwise).
Cut blue/white wire at keyless module. The alarm is not armed by itself, it is alarmed by the remote door locking system. That sensor is located behind the back seats right about in the center underneath the plastic that is below the back window. It is very close to the seats so all you have to to is put down the seats, take out the little plastic pieces that hold the plastic cover and just fold it up a bit. Cut and properly insulate the engine side of the blue/white wire. All that wire does is provide the 12V when your ignition is in the ON position, and 0V when not. So by cutting both your remote door lock and your alarm will never know if the engine is running and you can activate them anytime (including when the car is running down using the turbo timer).
PlatinumMSP
Member
- :
- Blazing Yellow 03.5 MSP
guys i'm having the same problem, my rpms drops down to zero and then jumps back up, but half the time it just shut off the engine, i wired the same wires as the other guy, exactly how it is in the picture. any help please? maybe the how to had me connect the wrong wire? can somebody please verify the wires?
PlatinumMSP
Member
- :
- Blazing Yellow 03.5 MSP
i switched the blue and green wires and it works perfect
