Who makes the factory fill oil?

[monsta]

Is it the same as the Motorcraft 5w-20? That is some killer oil for those of you who may not know. I've used it for years! Cheap, easy to get and performs great based on hundreds of UOA's I've seen.

I figured since Ford owns 34% of Mazda maybe that's part of thier ownership "thing".

 

[ZoomZoomH]

most likely it's whatever most available oil Mazda has at their factory in Japan, which is most likely Idemitsu, the largest oil manufacturer in Japan.

 

[TheMAN]

most likely it's whatever most available oil Mazda has at their factory in Japan, which is most likely Idemitsu, the largest oil manufacturer in Japan.

I was about to say....

 

[ZoomZoomH]

speaking of Idemitsu, are they importing 5w20 rotary oil to the US yet??

 

[monsta]

Has anyone ever done a Used Oil Analysis on the factory oil?

 

[was98strat]

Has anyone ever done a Used Oil Analysis on the factory oil?

I will be in 3900 kms. I'm also switching to Synthetic, and swapping out the Tranny fluid for Redline MTL 90 or 75W90NS (I can't find Schaeffer Oils in TO) I want the extra protection that redline provides in it's ability to climb the gears earlier than conventional oils. I'm also switching to synthetic motor Oil, just haven't decided if I'm going to use syntec, mobile1 or Royal Purple ! Redling Motor oil is too expensive in TO ($12 a litre, that 60 to do an oil change (shocked) )

 

[TheMAN]

speaking of Idemitsu, are they importing 5w20 rotary oil to the US yet??

who gives a s*** about that watered down s***... if you drive the s*** out of your car, you shouldn't half ass the mentality by using that pansy ass oil

 

[irloyal]

Has anyone ever done a Used Oil Analysis on the factory oil?

Mon,
The oil analysis of the used oil from the factory will probably not tell you much. There will be sh*tloads of metals in it from the break in. Oil analysis is really only useful after about the first 10K miles. Then you can start looking for loss of inhibitors, detergents, and the types of metals present to determine if the oil is seeing extreme heat or if you have some sort of unusual wear.

Your first analysis at 10K is good for a baseline. Then you go some predetermined length and check it again. My formula is check @ 10K miles, then every 30-40K miles after that. Based on results you may start doing maintenance of some sort. If you have a manual tranny, you might do the gear lube too.

 

[ZoomZoomH]

who gives a s*** about that watered down s***... if you drive the s*** out of your car, you shouldn't half ass the mentality by using that pansy ass oil

idemitsu is a pansy ass oil??

 

[TheMAN]

5W20 is piss, learn to read tool

 

[ZoomZoomH]

read BITOG forum lately Edwin? 5w20 oils are actually one of the better engineered street car oil grades out there, and the TONS of UOAs for that grade proves it

you may be living Mazda encyclopedia Edwin, but I doubt you've reached that level on oil yet... you'll have to live on BITOG get to that point lol

 

[TheMAN]

thats nice dear
5W20 becomes watered down after driving around in a hot summer no matter how damn well "engineered" it is... same thing with the uber synthetics, drive hard enough with a long enough given time and in the heat, it'll kill it too

the fact is, they're "recommending" 5W20 now because its "energy conserving"... they used that s*** to bump up MPG numbers in the EPA testing... and the law says you have to put in whatever s*** that was used for testing... 5W20 is barely sufficient to begin with

why take your chances with this fabled "better engineered" 5W20 s*** when we all know that we drive our cars hard and good old 10W30 synthetic works just fine? its tried and true, why chance using something that's "better engineered" only in dino form?

 

[ZoomZoomH]

you sound just like those people that bitched and moaned about using 'thinner' 10w30's back when 20w50's were the norm..... it's the same thing all over again... 20w50's were perfectly fine, why go to a 'thinner' 30 weight oil????

 

[irloyal]

you sound just like those people that bitched and moaned about using 'thinner' 10w30's back when 20w50's were the norm..... it's the same thing all over again... 20w50's were perfectly fine, why go to a 'thinner' 30 weight oil????

It's OK ZZH, we are making fact based decisions. Old school is old school, ignorant to the facts of the time, but still guided by good old seat of the pants from the past. Generally this type of decision making is more costly but it tends to work.

 

[ZoomZoomH]

i'm just giving Edwin a hard time, gotta be able to take it to give it you know lol

actually in several other markets in the world, 20w50 is one of the recommended oil weight for the RX-8 (along with 10w30 and 5w30), i guess it also depends on the availability of the oil weights at different markets as well.

 

[TheMAN]

you sound just like those people that bitched and moaned about using 'thinner' 10w30's back when 20w50's were the norm..... it's the same thing all over again... 20w50's were perfectly fine, why go to a 'thinner' 30 weight oil????

ok, if it's fine, how come you don't see race cars or high performance street driven cars use them?

that's nice about these "engineering figures" and statistics... how about you come back to me when you fix cars for a living?

 

[was98strat]

ok, if it's fine, how come you don't see race cars or high performance street driven cars use them?

that's nice about these "engineering figures" and statistics... how about you come back to me when you fix cars for a living?

That's a bit of a ridiculas analogy. The operating conditions are vastly different. Race engines operate at the edge of their envelope At extreme temperatures and pressures. It's just not a comparable situation. Anyway You're getting off topic a bit. The original poster just wanted to know what brand of oil is in the factory fill.

 

[TheMAN]

you're right that they operate at high temperatures... and so do high performance street driven vehicles (not to that extreme of course), so in otherwords, if you dog the s*** out of your car, you get everything under the hood nice and hot

so my point stands on the fact that you need at least 10W30 if you plan on "driving" your car, especially in a hot climate.... I'm sure 5W20 is fine in the more northern parts of the US and in canada where it is more temperate/cooler, but NOT here in the sunbelt

like I said before... the only reason why 5W20 is in new cars now is because it's "energy conserving" and they used that to try to bump up MPG numbers when they have EPA test their cars... and the law says you must put in the same s*** that was in the test car... in fact, I've seen some engines have 5W20 on the oil cap when the exact same thing a few years before had 10W30 on it... so that thing about "not enough clearances" or "5W20 doesn't have a problem" is nonsense... like I said, it works fine for NORMAL driving, but not hard driving

so some of you might have seen 5W20 synthetic or "race" oils... they're around only because of demand, and also because people are over concious about their factory warranty being voided... sure they work a lot better than the dino s***, and they'll probably stand up to harder driving like dino 10W30 can, but I wouldn't chance it if I were you