what order to get these items *feedback please*

[kwiktsi]

i would rather have the ability to tune to ~90% duty cycle and stay safe and not use crude methods, but whatever works.

I agree about wanting the ability to tune, but this car doesn't let you do that .. What is not safe about it? Cars have been tuned like that since LONG before the MSP and long before Greddy and HKS and all those other overpriced manufacturers came around. If your injectors are static and you have a rising rate regulator (which pretty much all are) and you have enough psi to keep the mixture right (to an extent- not saying the stock injectors will handle a t3/t4 @ 28 psi ), where is the danger? Even tuned electronically with larger injectors, the same dangers exist- loss of FP or something for example, will be bad no matter what .

Hell, even my DSM with the Haltech E6K was running with the injector duty maxed out up top and used FP from there- and that was 487 WHP and ran for 5-6 years like that. It is all personal preference, but I prefer the K.I.S.S. theory..
Joe

 

[jred321]

just pushing something beyond what it was meant to do makes it unsafe to me. i would just worry about the injectors themselves failing if they're running at over 100% of what they are meant to. again though, i prefer things on the safe side. the danger is that fuel is flowing through something all the time when it was only meant to be flowing through some of the time, so it is working more than it was meant to, and when things start to do more than they were designed to eventually something will fail.

 

[kwiktsi]

just pushing something beyond what it was meant to do makes it unsafe to me. i would just worry about the injectors themselves failing if they're running at over 100% of what they are meant to. again though, i prefer things on the safe side. the danger is that fuel is flowing through something all the time when it was only meant to be flowing through some of the time, so it is working more than it was meant to, and when things start to do more than they were designed to eventually something will fail.

I went 11.9@ 116 in my DSM with stock injectors at over 110% duty cycle and drove the car like that for about 3 years with no issues- and they had 156K on them when I started .. I see your point and it is valid, just not my cup of tea. I know how to tune to get the max out of things with no issues. Plus, as mentioned a maxed small injector atomizes better than a larger injector turned down, so you make more power and have much better response. I have had very good luck keeping thigs reliable and fast just tuning with the stock setups. To each his own though, either way works.
Joe

 

[Fakhelek]

Ahh yes, you should know by now- there will be 50,000 different "have to get" items from people running high 14's ..

Stock airbox with a K&N drop in, FPR kit, FCD, MBC set to 10-11 psi and a 3" off the stock DP back I ran 14.2@100 with a lousy 60' time. The 100 mph trap is what shows the cars power at that stage. If you want to do it on a budget- K&N drop in, DP, MBC (or any type of boost control), FPR, FCD (yes, you will need it at anything over about 9 psi- don't believe me?- wait until it gets colder out ), boost gauge and an AF gauge. Joe

Joe,

At what point would you recommend going to colder plugs? I know you mention it in other places but I'm not sure what factor determines when you will need them.

I am thinking about a minimalist set up to start. Stock airbox and filter. Possible homemade bastardized CAI (in other words, custom piping from the standard airbox to the fender well with it's sweet cool air), and your MBC set to 9 or 10 psi (and of course a boost gauge).

What I really need to know is what, in your view, determines when you need the FCD, DP, and cooler plugs? I am holding off on the FPR to see what Mazda comes up with first. Can I just go with MBC and gauge to start with no risk to the engine? Any help would be appreciated.

 

[Fakhelek]

Bump.