What have you done to your P5 today?

[RPRP5]

Online Mazda parts.

Ouch, these are a pretty penny, plus then I'd have to return the kit I bought. But at the same time, I'm spending $600 on labor.....

 

[pcb]

Ouch, these are a pretty penny, plus then I'd have to return the kit I bought. But at the same time, I'm spending $600 on labor.....

Yeah, it's a tough call.
The problems with the aftermarket stuff was a bunch of years ago, the quality may have improved if there was a lot of problems with them.

A failed clutch cylinder can be dangerous and leave you stranded, then you'd need a tow and have to replace the clutch cylinders again.

 

[RPRP5]

Yeah, it's a tough call.
The problems with the aftermarket stuff was a bunch of years ago, the quality may have improved if there was a lot of problems with them.

A failed clutch cylinder can be dangerous and leave you stranded, then you'd need a tow and have to replace the clutch cylinders again.

And I need my car to be reliable because I just got laid off 3 weeks ago and I'm looking for work....but at the same time I'm already $800 into the whole ordeal....ugh, I hate this.

 

[pcb]

Your clutch cylinders may still be fine.
You may be able to just flush/bleed them and you're good to go.
Your mechanic should be able to give his opinion.
It depends on how your clutch failed.
It doesn't sound like a clutch cylinder issue.

 

[RPRP5]

Your clutch cylinders may still be fine.
You may be able to just flush/bleed them and you're good to go.
Your mechanic should be able to give his opinion.
It depends on how your clutch failed.
It doesn't sound like a clutch cylinder issue.

They have 125k miles on them. I'm sure I should be replacing them by now anyways. Its just a lot to take in at the same time.

 

[pcb]

They have 125k miles on them. I'm sure I should be replacing them by now anyways. Its just a lot to take in at the same time.

The clutch cylinders aren't really a wear item, and are kind of separate from the clutch itself.

If your clutch pedal wasn't squeaking or felt crunchy or went to the floor and stayed there, then they are still probably fine.

You could postpone replacement until you're better able to deal with it.

It would suck to put new ones on that fail in a couple of months.

You can also buy the seal kits and rebuild your cylinders.
(You shouldn't need the pistons, just the seals.)

 

[RPRP5]

The clutch cylinders aren't really a wear item, and are kind of separate from the clutch itself.

If your clutch pedal wasn't squeaking or felt crunchy or went to the floor and stayed there then they are still probably fine.

You could postpone replacement until you're better able to deal with it.

It would suck to put new ones on that fail in a couple of months.

You can also buy the seal kits and rebuild your cylinders.
(You shouldn't need the pistons, just the seals.)

It is squeaking. It's also making a loud whine when I slip the clutch. To top it off, it's making a rattle on neutral and also when slipping the clutch in 1st and shifting to 2nd. After that, theres no more noise.

 

[pcb]

It is squeaking. It's also making a loud whine when I slip the clutch. To top it off, it's making a rattle on neutral and also when slipping the clutch in 1st and shifting to 2nd. After that, theres no more noise.

If the clutch cylinders are squeaking, they would squeak every time you push the clutch, and the sound would follow the movement of your clutch pedal.

Your noises may all be from the failed clutch.

Does your clutch pedal squeak when the engine is off?
Does it feel smooth?

 

[RPRP5]

If the clutch cylinders are squeaking, they would squeak every time you push the clutch, and the sound would follow the movement of your clutch pedal.

Your noises may all be from the failed clutch.

Does your clutch pedal squeak when the engine is off?
Does it feel smooth?

It squeaked for a while, but it went away. However, when the rattle came, the squeak came back, and yes, it does squeak with the engine off.

 

[pcb]

It squeaked for a while, but it went away. However, when the rattle came, the squeak came back, and yes, it does squeak with the engine off.

Well, you may be fine with the clutch cylinders that you ordered.

The only other thing I remember is that sometimes the squeaking is coming from where the end of the slave cylinder connects to that fork thing inside the transmission.
A dab of grease stops the squeaking.
Or some grease or spray oil on the clutch pedal pivot and its connection point inside the car.

Those squeaks and fixes have nothing to do with failing clutch cylinders.

Failed clutch cylinders usually mean you have to pump the clutch pedal to get it to work, or the pedal just stays on the floor when you push it.
That's caused by failed seals in the cylinders.

 

[RPRP5]

Well, you may be fine with the clutch cylinders that you ordered.

The only other thing I remember is that sometimes the squeaking is coming from where the end of the slave cylinder connects to that fork thing inside the transmission.
A dab of grease stops the squeaking.
Or some grease or spray oil on the clutch pedal pivot and its connection point inside the car.

Those squeaks and fixes have nothing to do with failing clutch cylinders.

Failed clutch cylinders usually mean you have to pump the clutch pedal to get it to work, or the pedal just stays on the floor when you push it.
That's caused by failed seals in the cylinders.

I've had difficulties going into reverse, but that's about It.

 

[pcb]

I've had difficulties going into reverse, but that's about It.

Yeah, that's different.
We all have that problem.
There's a special gear or pin inside the transmission that prevents the gearbox from going into reverse unless the wheels are stopped.
I just let the clutch out and try again, sometimes it takes a couple of tries.
(I think it's for novice drivers that think "R" stands for "race" and try to go into "R" after 5th gear. Lol)

 

[323]

LOL I feel the same way. I just hope that the folks here have some patience with my dumbas*!

I'm pretty sure eventually I'll be banned from this place because I type without thinking.

Thank you for the link 323!

No need to worry about that here

 

[dorihachigo]

Swap end links Saturday. Replaced stock with Mood Ford Escape end links. Much beefier and with zirk fittings to boot. Stock ones are worn and boots torn off. Unfortunately, this was not the source of the clunk I've been haunting.

 

[LankyKiwi]

@dorihachigo nice work on those swaybar links! They look miles better than the oem links. Check your lower control arm bushes and swaybar mounts for wear, that's where my clunk was hiding

 

[dorihachigo]

@dorihachigo nice work on those swaybar links! They look miles better than the oem links. Check your lower control arm bushes and swaybar mounts for wear, that's where my clunk was hiding

Thank you, I am planning to install new control arms along with struts, tops, and lowering springs soon. Outer tie rod could could use some replacing as well.

 

[Swordfish]

Great find on those sway bar links!

 

[Vires511]

I lifted my protege5 with coilovers and I’m running some 215 60 r16 kinda a/s tires and it looks awesome and doesn’t rub at all. Oh and I have like 10 inches of ground clearance now.

 

[RPRP5]

I lifted my protege5 with coilovers and I’m running some 215 60 r16 kinda a/s tires and it looks awesome and doesn’t rub at all. Oh and I have like 10 inches of ground clearance now.

My stock ride height P5 that scrapes on my steep a** driveway is jealous!

 

[BenjiHoggi]

I did a goof.

I used 5W20 on my last oil change in December and just now realized. That was about 2400 miles ago, and I've been regularly topping off from the same jug as well .

If my assumptions are correct, 5W30 and 5W20 have a similar viscosity when cold, but the latter is slightly thinner at operating temp. Most engine wear happens at startup, so I believe I should be fine until my next change. I usually try to stick to the 3k mile interval for oil changes and it's fairly cold right now, so I'll just top off with 5W30 until the next change.