Update on my MPI Tuner!

[igdrasil]

send me that map...if he sent it to you? or did you just input the data from the analog captured image?

 

[Bigg Tim]

Update: I changed to Chas's fuel map and the car seems to run very smooth!@!! Didn't feel any jerk in my test drive at all!! I also switched the switch point to come on at .64 it was at .75... This crazy map could actually work very well The only two things I noticed that were' good was my idle (in the 16-17 range) and the detonation I was hearing.

I didn't ever get a chance to see what his ignition map looked like though. And it looks like I'll have to adjust mine a bit because I was hearing a lot of detonation on my test drive. Does anyone know how much timing he was pulling?

I think he said something about pulling -11 somewhere on the map, but that doesn't help much.

 

[igdrasil]

DAMN DAMN DAMN!

That map is working!!!!!!!! Stock Injectors!!!!

 

[LinuxRacr]

My situation is improving. I ran 11 PSI tonight, but can't hold it due to a little detonation. I am pulling like -19 timing at some points.

 

[smp3000]

Ok my situation has now changed..... Yes the car runs AWESOME with that fuel map but for some reason I overheat constantly!!! It was horrible!!! I took it up to a friends house and had to exit the freeway about halfway there and drive on surface streets. The water temp goes all the way up buit if I let off the throttle and go into neutral it goes back down to working temp!!! Does this make any sense?

Once I got there we checked everything- water/coolant level, fans, and nothing seemed wrong. The logical thing to think is "maybe it's something in the MPI that I changed". could it be? If so what component? If it's not the mpi then it's prob the water pump.

Pat- I remember you saying you had problems overheating at one point. What was causing it? I've never had this problem in the entire 30K miles I have on the car. It just seems wierd that as soon as I changed the analog fuel map, and my fuel calibration that it'd do this.

????

 

[igdrasil]

That is completely normal...!!!! Its the Turbo Module (Water Temp Sensor Clamp) making the ECU think the car is overheated...

there is still no workaround for this situation. If you dont want this to happen, you will need to unplug these wires from the Turbo Module and keep stock.

The only problem here is that the MPI will not be able to send fuel like it is now if the Coolant sensor is not clamped.

Ok my situation has now changed..... Yes the car runs AWESOME with that fuel map but for some reason I overheat constantly!!! It was horrible!!! I took it up to a friends house and had to exit the freeway about halfway there and drive on surface streets. The water temp goes all the way up buit if I let off the throttle and go into neutral it goes back down to working temp!!! Does this make any sense?

????

 

[igdrasil]

Damn right...somebody here scanned the car's timming while driving and he said it went from 40deg advanced to 63deg advanced in some load situations. So...there you go with the MP3 timming. I dont know hows on the proteges, I have only scanned 38deg advanced @ 5500rpms and no load.

My situation is improving. I ran 11 PSI tonight, but can't hold it due to a little detonation. I am pulling like -19 timing at some points.

 

[RyanJayG]

that was pdhaudio83.. and yeah it did friggen jump way up there, just all of the sudden like.

 

[LinuxRacr]

That is completely normal...!!!! Its the Turbo Module (Water Temp Sensor Clamp) making the ECU think the car is overheated...

there is still no workaround for this situation. If you dont want this to happen, you will need to unplug these wires from the Turbo Module and keep stock.

The only problem here is that the MPI will not be able to send fuel like it is now if the Coolant sensor is not clamped.

This explains the issues I have been having since the new TM Box with my coolant temps!

 

[Bigg Tim]

The TM does make the stock temp gauge go up as you come into it, but that damn gauge is not much better than an idiot light. I have another temp gauge and when it reads over 210f the stock "gauge" will still read normal. So get another temp gauge and watch that. If you rely on the stock "gauge" to tell you if you are running hot, then you will do some damage before you realize the motor is hot. And like igdrasil said, if you disconnect the coolent temp sensor wires from the TM, then you will not get as much fuel as you are now.

 

[LinuxRacr]

I said what I said above because I was using my OBDII scanner to read the temp numerically, and it is in the 230's when the car goes off! I know I have enough coolant!

 

[Bigg Tim]

I said what I said above because I was using my OBDII scanner to read the temp numerically, and it is in the 230's when the car goes off! I know I have enough coolant!

What do you mean when it goes "off"?? when it shuts down or the TM turns off? My autometer gauge never changes when the TM comes on or off.

 

[LinuxRacr]

Oh, no. I mean like at a stoplight, it starts to climb in to the mid 220's F, and then when the car is off the temp displays into the 230's F. I know at least one of my fans is working. The other does not due to me not having any freon in my A/C system.

 

[Bigg Tim]

Oh, no. I mean like at a stoplight, it starts to climb in to the mid 220's F, and then when the car is off the temp displays into the 230's F. I know at least one of my fans is working. The other does not due to me not having any freon in my A/C system.

Don't know about that man. Wire the A/C fan into the main fan and they will come on together. That can be a temp fix until you get the A/C done.

 

[LinuxRacr]

That sounds like a winner!

 

[smp3000]

oh man what a relieif!! I thought something was wierd when the car never actually overheated and didn't run bad when the temp gauge was pegged up high. But to be carefull I never let it get up that high.

The wierd thing is that I never noticed it before... Yesterday I changed my switch from .75 to .64 so that may have something to do with it. I'll change it back to .75 as that's probably where it should be. I was just making all my settings like Chas to see what would happen. Unfortuantely I can't drive around with the laptop to actually see when I go into boost- the stupid laptop I'm using is only good if pluged in hehe.

Thanks for the help guys!!!!

 

[igdrasil]

Unfortuantely I can't drive around with the laptop to actually see when I go into boost- the stupid laptop I'm using is only good if pluged in hehe.

Thanks for the help guys!!!!

Get a 150w power inverter from ebay, thats what I did, $20.00. I had to because my laptop does not hold 1 second on battery...and a new battery is not cheap.

 

[smp3000]

Well this laptop isn't mine- just a loaner. I'm trying to find 300mhz cheapo one for myself. I had an uber nice 660mhz toshiba that I sold a few months ago (I had no idea I'd be getting the mpi) so I'm kicking myself!!!! lol

 

[505zoom]

Get a 150w power inverter from ebay, thats what I did, $20.00. I had to because my laptop does not hold 1 second on battery...and a new battery is not cheap.

Sounds like my VAIO. It will only run on bat power for about 2 or 3 minutes before going to sleep, so I just went to Radio Shack and got a inverter for like 40 or 50 bucks.

 

[acidbug]

I will have the actually maps up tomm..I just needed more time for tuning. Wanna make sure that the car runs same..when hot & cold out!

Oh...and my laptop is the same way..without my power inverter...the batter don't last 2 minutes!

Paid $40.00 for a nice power inverter!

Chas