TurBo IdLe

k, i get my car back today, and the thing cant idle for nothing. every stop light i go to the damn thing shuts off. i guess the questions are how do i adjust the idle on a pro5 and anyone know of any problems that would cause this thing to idle this eradic. at a stop, itll idle from 500-1000 rpms but very jumpy. i tried to search for a solution or other posts but couldnt find anything. thanks for the help

Keola
 
I'm having some probs with idle also but not as bad as when I try to go fast. It's cutting out my power, not getting enough fuel or fire one. I gotta figure this s*** out.
 
mine idles at about 700 rpms at a stop. It used to shudder and cut out on me, but the little fix that Flyin' Miata sent me has gone a long way in solving that problem. i don't think it would work on a Mazdaspeed though.
 
Adam3482P: Have you always run boost on the p5 ECU or did you have boost on the MP3 ECU for awhile? Also, did you notice any differences after the ECU swap? Did a CEL come on? Was idle effected after the swap? Was it a MT or AT P5 that you swapped with? Should it matter?
 
I would think it would be an intake air leaks cuasing those problems before anything else.
 
Anyone check for vaccum leaks at all? Vaccum leaks will cause all of the above.
Many things can affect an irregular idle.
But the primary thing is vacum leaks.
First:
Keola, Since you did not get a kit what have you done about the egr? Is it properly plugged up? This should be airtight. Also zip tie all vacum lines and make sure all plumbing that is turbo related is making a seal. Use a soapy solution and see if you are getting any bubbles around charge pipe couplings.

Also what kind of BOV are you running keola? This could drasitically affect your idle.
Second: Adam I am unsure but are you utilizing the oem HKS bov? If so you may want to try opening up the valve and using 2 metal orings the width of a quarter. This will tighten up the valve since they may leak at idle. The greddy type-s however has no problems. You however may want to tighten up the valve and experiment with that if you tracked all air leaks and still have not fixed your problem.

Also what is your vacum reading at idle with the a/c off?
 
i think you need to check fuel pressure at idle( if you can)
if you have an fme from vortech like i think you do try switching to a BEGI rising rate reg from flyin miata
what type of piggy are you using?
what is it controlling?
did you upgrade injectors?
sorry for all the questions i just wasnt paying attention i guess if you already answered these questions!
 
I had all sorts of stalling problems with mine.
Ended up that the BOV was causing some problems (Greddy type S), however, if I just run it with the small nipple vented it seems to be fine. But as soon as I hook that up, the car will stall at every light. It sucks big time when the car is doing that. So, to hell with the "good" way of hooking up the Type - S, it doesn't work at least not on my car.

Otherwise, I don't want to sound like a broken record, but vacuum leaks are the deal usually. I used hairspray on all my connections and had no leaks. Just screwed it up when I messed with the plumbing for the BOV. But fixed now I think and live is good (except, I'm still concerned about my fuel as well). Can't get richer than stoich under boost.
 
what are you doing for the a/f ratio under boost?
have you added any modifeir to the system to interface with the ecu?
 
Little Beavis did you put the new FMU in?
And you still are getting stoich at WOT?
If so let me know so we can try to alleviate your issue
 
spoolin did he get the turbo set up from you
just curios to know what was included in the kit
thanks
 
one thing about the o2 sensor
the ecu will continue to reference from the o2 sensor even at WOT to keep a stioch ratio untill 4500 rpm
the OBDII set up on this car will not allow any fuel enrichment untill that 4500rpm point
unless you fool the ecu with a voltage blocker to the ecu from the o2 sensor
it will always maintain 14.7 :1 because it is designed that way for emmisions
it will take away fuel to the injectors untill it reaches its goal of stioch ratio
 
perfworks he is running an intercooled kit.
Basically
A full turbo system with all plumbing ect. Split sec fuel meter, 12:1 vortech FMU, voltage blocker, autometer egt, 2.5 inch exaust, external deltagate wastegate ect
 
ok i didnt know iyour kit had a voltage blocker
maybe his reference point for the A/F meter is not reading accuratly
i guess i cant really say with out looking at his set up
 
Yes it could be many things. I have a hunch that his a/f gauge is working correctly however. The only way to accuratley determine a/f ratios are via a wideband or atleast an egt to get an educated idea of whats going on
 
Yes, new FMU is in, but at WOT, I read stoich.

As soon as I let up, it goes all the way to blue, and then back down. So, it would seem that it is throwing in extra fuel, but maybe not enough.

I was wondering if I'm just not getting enough fuel pressure and volume (since my fuel pump has made a little noise from time to time). I'm trying right now to put in an inline pump but I can't find a spot to mount it. I'm outta room. I'm thinking maybe the extra pump will help eliminate the problem.

It's weird, I can go blue under very light throttle. I assume that since it doesn't go orange or red (lean) then the voltage clamp is working, right?
 
Yes so partial throttle is fine.
Then the only 2 options are to get an egt and verify for once and for all if its just your a/f meter or you actually are running lean a/f at WOT.

Or

Throw an inline in there for ya.
I have the pump in stock or you can opt for the other route we were taking about over the phone
 
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