symptoms of ovrrboost

[Dr0]

I'm just curious what a stuck closed WG would feel like? I kno my WGA is junk and already have an atp replacement on its way out. I guess my question is will a failed WGA keep the wg closed and create a potential for disaster, or can it fail with the wg stuck stuck open? Sometimes if I get underneath the car when it isn't hot I can manually operate the wg a few times and when I go to drive it, it will build boost just fine until it gets stuck again.

 

[StealthWyvern]

overboost the car would pull like mad then boom.. that simple

 

[Dr0]

Ah ok I figured I would have blown the motor by now if it was completely stuck closed, I just seem to completely hit a wall when I hit 3-3.5k rpms when the turbo usually hits boost, and when ever I go over 50% throttle while cruising I can hear a whistle noise comming from the WGA? I belive anyways, I didn't care to test much since after reading about how typical the oem WGA failing is I wanted to replace it anyways. I also got 5 ft of silicon vacuum hose that I will be replacing at the same time.

 

[StealthWyvern]

sounds like your hitting boost/fuel cut to me.

 

[Dr0]

I thought it may have been overboosting and I was getting fuel cut to prevent detonation... But why would it boost fine after manually moving the wg?

 

[Dr0]

Oh and forgot to add it has been doing it all the time after I did a hard pull from 2-3 a week or so ago, if I hold the throttle it will eventually pick up and go but it feels like its overworking the turbo

 

[StealthWyvern]

it could be binding... hard to tell

 

[f1yen]

nah, if he was hitting fuel cut, he would be slamming his face into the steering wheel. lmao you WILL know if you hit fuel cut. if it just feels like its falling on its face.... its an MSP

WGA's can fail both ways, but the normal way would be for the diaphram to crack/break, (and leak) so this will bring about high boost #s and fuel cut,
(edit, if you suspect that you are loosing an WGA, don't have a JoeP fuel cut defender installed!)

It can fail the other way, staying/binding open, and it will build boost late etc., most people complain of not getting any boost in first gear etc with this way...

hope this helps

 

[Dr0]

yikes. i just thought it was a huge boost leak and i wasnt building boost, im going to replace the WGA asap tommorow soon as i get a chance. if i were to drive around for a week or so hitting the fuel cut would that do any dammage?

 

[Jo060]

fuel cut won't damage anything. Until you know for sure just try to stay out of boost. Take 'er easy.

 

[Dr0]

i already suspected a failing WGA since i would get a loud whistle from the front/slightly towards the drivers side soon as i would build up pressure. i manually operated the WG a few times and the car would go back to normal for like 3-4 take offs... then back to square one. I checked and double checked the wastegate and i have no issues moving it manually so i dont belive its binding. anywhooo i already bought a ATP universal WGA(set at 8psi) and 5 foot of silicone vacuum lines, so hopefully all should be well once i get the junk actuator out.

couple questions that didnt get answered in my previous posts tho...

the vacuum lines are all 3/16in for the most part correct? (i tested it on the ATP WGA and it fit perfect)

When i replace the WGA anyone have a good way of pulling that metal circlip off without driving myself insane (boom01)

and lastly i wanted to replace the plugs, found out the NGK recommended plugs are a bit hard to get ahold of, would the PZFR6F-11's work? (i know i need to regap them as all the plugs i could get from parts stores were all stock FS plugs (.44gap)

Any tips/guidance would be greatly appreciated

 

[bwlknsn91]

it could be binding... hard to tell

What do you mean by "binding"?

 

[Dr0]

theres a small metal sleeve that goes in the WG housing that is pressed in from factory, as i have read on the forums it can back out and in effect make the WG bind. i belive thats what hes referring too... correct me if i was misled

 

[Dr0]

Bump... Anybody out there?

 

[mebarsh]

yeah that can happen. i've read but i don't know where you heat it up and bend it back. i had a leaking wg when i first got it and didn't know what the problem was just kept beating the crap out of it because it pissed me off. come to find out i was running 12psi for three months. i have no idea why my motor didn't throw a rod.

 

[Dr0]

lol yea thats kind of how its been for me (boom01)
how did you end up fixing yours?
and i think i saw a post where someone pulled the housing and heated the sleeve up until it was red hot and then used a punch to pound the housing in around the sleeve to prevent said issue from returning.

 

[bwlknsn91]

yeah that can happen. i've read but i don't know where you heat it up and bend it back. i had a leaking wg when i first got it and didn't know what the problem was just kept beating the crap out of it because it pissed me off. come to find out i was running 12psi for three months. i have no idea why my motor didn't throw a rod.

This is why I need a boost/vacuum gauge extremely bad!

 

[mebarsh]

there's a how to somewhere ill try to find it. but all i had wrong was a leaking wg. so i replaced that along with installing a boost gauge. lol

 

[Dr0]

can you send me a link for the replacement WG? just incase since this is a pretty common problem

 

[mebarsh]

tell me if this helps? http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...ator)-replacement.&highlight=wastegate how to