speed-related ticking from left rear wheel

andersje

Member
:
2002 Mazda Protege5
From the left rear wheel of my '02 P5 comes a speed-related-tick. The faster I go, the more rapid the sound is. volume seems constant. It stops when I apply _any_ brake pressure.

I've checked the lugnuts, and they're tight. The brakecaliper seems solid, too.
I've wondered if it's the brake pad brushing up against the ridge of rust on the outside edge of the disc. I had a garage redo the brakes this fall, and the ticking started then. Over the past four months, it has gotten slightly louder, and I can now hear it on the highway. I do not notice it when I am turning, but I will double-check that on the drive home tonight and update this post.

Ideas?

Thanks! (and please go gently on a first-time poster) :)
 
uhh....i have to ask.
a nail in the tire?

why would it be a nail in the tire if pressing the brakes makes it go away? (fight)

To the OP, if it's gotten slightly worse in the past few months, it's something to do with your brakes (as the pads have worn down). I'm guessing that there's an issue with the way your brake pads are sitting in the caliper, or else with some rust.

You should've taken the car back immediately to the place that did your brakes and made them figure out what the noise was.
 
yep, you're right

Yeah, I really should have. Work was insane, and time got away from me.

I guess I'll just have to follow the old saw of "if you want it done right, do it yourself," and fix it. I've been thinking about replacing the rusting discs anyway.
 
think I've got it figured out.

The more I think about it, the more I think it's a warped rotor. If it were mildly warped, it would brush the pads as it turned -- that would be my speed related ticking. When I apply brake pressure, the pads squeeze the rotors, thus eliminating the tick.

I'll get new discs ordered shortly :)
 
I think I heard a similar diagnosis on CarTalk a couple weeks ago.


The more I think about it, the more I think it's a warped rotor. If it were mildly warped, it would brush the pads as it turned -- that would be my speed related ticking. When I apply brake pressure, the pads squeeze the rotors, thus eliminating the tick.

I'll get new discs ordered shortly :)
 
Holy s***. I just developed the same issue, rather from my front, I think. Only problem being that it keeps going with the brakes applied, I could be wrong. Also, seems to only really be noticeable between 15-50mph. It is fairly loud inside the cabin, but when I open the door or window, I can't hear anything.

From what I can tell, It is speed related, yes, but it doesn't seem to sync with the speed and the possibility of something in the tire, whether it be a nail or a large stone. Also, happens while in gear and in neutral. Keep me posted :D
 
I can't smell anything, and from just getting back from a drive, the noise doesn't stop when braking either. To be noted that mine isn't a quite a "ticking" noise, rather a deeper rubbing noise.
 
I bet it's a wheel bearing, or a CV joint.

it can't be brake pads rubbing, or the sound would stop when you apply pressure. Same with rotor warpage.

How is it around corners? The same? Does it make any noise when you're going in reverse? (hard to hear over the whining gearbox, I know).

Are any components of the wheel getting hot? Here in MN, I have a quick and dirty temp check system: throw a handful of snow on the wheel and see how quick it melts. When everything is fine, all four wheels melt in similar amounts of time. When one wheel is out of whack, the snow steams and boils away quickly.

It could also be something wrapped around the wheel -- back in the 80s, I had a Chevy that developed a weird noise, turned out to be a piece of rope wrapped around the axle.
 
Last edited:
I had c/s rotors when my car was doing this. I was thinking it was the edge pads passing the slots and holes in the rotors when brakes were not being applied. Just like above, it would stop when brakes were applied. Paid it no further attention, got 70k out of pads/rotors before swapping to new set of pads/rotors & all brake functions were stellar the whole time. Roll up the window and/or turn the music on & keep driving unless you smell brake smells or your mpg gets down to 5 mpg.
 
Just took a spin around a few blocks to test out the suggestions. Rotors seem to melt snow about the same... but the noise almost disappears when I turn left quickly (still driving at about 30 mph). It can still be heard, but only a VERY little bit. I won't have time to get the wheel off and give everything a once over till the weekend, so shot off some ideas of what it could be. Let's hope everything is fine till then since I drive 70 miles a day to and from work.
 
Any developments on your ticking noise? My msp started this noise 2 days ago, just finished cleaning my brakes and that wasn't it.

Ticking noise, speed related and disappears when you accelerate. Brakes won't change a thing. Sounds like a faulty gear somewhere leaving for the afterlife :o
 
Alright, zombie thread status has come.

I've been having this issue (as described by andersje and azuelke) from about 2 months after I replaced my brakes all around (MZ6 swap). My noise however is a little bit different. It's a chirping/high-pitched squeaking that's rhythmic and speed dependent coming from the front wheels (I believe it's mostly the passenger side). However, I don't hear it at all going in a straight line and then it starts when I turn (mostly going around curves, not corners), other times it's the opposite, and sometimes it's all the time. There are times where I can stab the brakes quick and it will go away, but that only works about 50% of the time. The noise used to go away after I start braking for a stop or corner.

However, in the last week or two (about 5 months after the swap) the noise has become more frequent as well as created another noise. If I am braking, I can hear a deeper rubbing and squeaking that has the same rhythmic and speed factors coming from the front wheels. The squeaking is mostly noticed when I am below 15 and the noises are more drawn out. For the most part, the latter squeaking mostly sounds like a creaking spring at those lower speeds. I also noticed that around 50-60 mph (as high as I've gone since this part started) if I apply the brakes my steering wheel will start shaking.

I know that last bit is a sign of warped rotors, but I had the same issue before I replaced my brakes (minus the chirping but on a worse scale with the rubbing) and they didn't seem warped at all when I pulled them off, although I didn't thoroughly inspect them because they were rusted to death. With the rubbing/squeaking part, I also noticed it getting rapidly worse over the last couple nights (all-night delivery shifts with crazy bar rushes). Does anyone have advice on this? I'm heading to the shop tomorrow to have them look at that (and a couple other issues) and wanna be able to guide them to what it could be so that they can confirm it.

About my brake swap (if it helps): 07 MZ6 rotors, pads, and calipers. Calipers were used from a junkyard, bought all together with lifetime warranty (I believe. Some kind of warranty). Seemed to be in good condition once I sanded all the corrosion off. Rotors and pads were a set from Power Stop (part number K200 at RockAuto) with ceramic pads and zinc rotors. 3 year warranty on set, but only 2 weeks on individual rotors?
 
I could see either one of those. I have noticed some vibrations when turning too. And I've replaced my wheel bearings a couple times (both failed a second time). I have also noticed (randomly) a rhythmic squeaking when turning left at nearly full lock.

Since they're still under warranty, I really hope is my wheel bearings again. As much of a headache as it is going back to the shop all the time, is nice that they cover the cost of it.
 
Get OEM bearings and be done with it. A shop replaced one of my rear bearings as part of an insurance claim and it failed within a week (chinese made Master Pro brand). I made them buy me a new bearing and they paid me to install it.

Squeaking at full lock is probably the tires rubbing.
 
Alright just got back from the shop (Tires Plus) and they said nothing was wrong relating to the front brakes. They did note that my one of my rear brakes was missing some caliper hardware that keeps the pad in place, although it seems to be working fine so -meh-. Pad measurements showed that the left rear was at 406 versus 415 on the other side. Front right (the one I thought was squeaking) was at 985 versus 990 for the other side. I'm not sure what units of measurement they were using, but all 4 were marked in the green.

Also noted (and more importantly) was that my front sway bar bushings are bad, and this was what they thought was causing the squeaking. Does this seem right? I honestly don't know if that would be the cause, but seeing as they're the pros I take their word over mine. Most of the time, anyways. Nothing was said about the rotors being warped, so maybe I'll just have to check it out for myself.
 
Speaking is probably strut mounts or the spring seat, the swaybar bushings can squeak but you are more likely to hear a clunking sound over bumps.
 
Also noted (and more importantly) was that my front sway bar bushings are bad, and this was what they thought was causing the squeaking. Does this seem right? I honestly don't know if that would be the cause, but seeing as they're the pros I take their word over mine. Most of the time, anyways. Nothing was said about the rotors being warped, so maybe I'll just have to check it out for myself.

I wouldn't think it would be a bushing if you're hearing a 'tick' noise that seems to correspond to tire rotation... I had this noise the other day and it turned out to be a screw in the front wheel.. I could literally feel a little tick in the steering wheel as the screw came into contact with the ground. Another time, I had a similar noise after a brake job... Turned out to be the metal dust shield behind the brake disc got bent just enough to come into contact with the back side of one of the brake rotors. There was some brake pad material built up in one spot, that would just 'tick' as it passed the part of the shield that was bent too close to the rotor. Good luck!
 
Back