well i changed the spark plugs and the pcv valve and the shifter doesnt vibrate quite as much.... when the butterfly fell off (recall for previous dates the car was made) it was racked around and it appears to have damaged one of the plugs...so i changed them and it helped marginally. still idles at the second tach though,not sure if that's normal or not. didnt have time to clean the egr because i helped my friend do the rear motor mount on his MS3. hopefully do that soon...it doesnt really fluctuate much, it idles at the 2nd tach and occasionally fluctuates btwn the 1st and 3rd but nothing major...
Shaking Engine!??! HELP!!!!
- Thread starter amsgator
- Start date
amsgator said:
Mine idles just above the 2nd mark on the tach. I can take a pic of exactly where mine idles to assure you that it is "normal" (yes)
Werd, we don't need no stinkin flex pipe (unless you have the extra-fragile corksport downpipe as I do). The talk of the header "removing flex" from the system is bs if you ask me, just take a look at your stock exhaust manifold, first cat, and j-pipe as a unit: now tell me if there is any play in that.WRCprotege said:
That b****.Blake said:
Because the ECU recalibrated and it had to? Or because you're obsessive compulsive and are seeking the "perfect" idle? (drunk)Kooldino said:
amsgator said:
You can adjust is pretty easily at the throttle body, but as people have said the ECU negates most changes you make to it. For this reason I've never even bothered to raise my idle, as the shaking at idle is frankly a bit comforting (massage seats mm). I have all available SLS mounts on my car and I don't find the shaking to be at all worrying. Was your past car a Mercedes with a V8 or something? This little four cylinder we all know and love isn't the most refined beast, it doesn't have any of the fun stuff the Mazda3 2.3 has to reduce engine vibrations (like the crank driven harmonic dampening system that they all love removing so much).
If you'd like I could also take video of my engine bay at idle so that you can compare to the video you took (which I haven't yet seen.. at work right now
).If you know anyone with a turboed car (and a boost gauge), it would be interesting to see what your vacuum level is at idle. you wouldn't even need to pull the gauge from their car, just run a long vacuum line from their boost sender (if an electric gauge) to your car, then tee into a line. If listening under the hood of your car, do you hear any hissing noises at all?
no hissing other than the intake.... i hear hissing but i put my ear to the intake and thats all it is. i checked for leaks with seafoam too and all i found was the 2nd o2 sensor was leaking so i had Eric tighten it and it stopped leaking. i got it as tight as i could. i pulled and it literally drug me across the ground. lol.
amsgator said:
love that when I'm on my creeper and I literally have to hang myself off the bottom of the car with my legs and free arm wrapped around various crossmembers to that I don't roll around
If the only hissing you hear is from the air filter then that's good.
Maybe get a smoke machine and fill your garage or the great outdoors with smoke, turn off the lights (or wait until it is dark outside), then shine a flashlight around and see if the smoke is getting blown or sucked by anything?
ok that's just a silly way to check for vacuum leaks but I can't think of anything else.. you probably don't have a vacuum leak though.
Maybe Autozone or wherever you can go to get codes read for free can tell you what RPM it's idling at? Like I said, mine idled at 690 (before I was turboed, but I think it's the same still, it feels and looks the same) which I think is normal.
WRCprotege
Member
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- 03 Protege5 91 miata
clean the EGR valve. also for a quik check.. unplug the AIR IDLE controler, thats conected to the egr, your check engine light will go on, but see if that changes idle back to mormal...let me know what happens
