ran horrible times at the dragstrip

i agree, and just dont understand either.

i ran a 14.6@95?96? something like that. last year with an cpe nano(for an ms3) and a rear mm. that was with a terrible launch cause i suck at drag racing.

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assuming you had the mods in your sig i would expect you to trap higher too. I have stock downpipe and stock TMIC. those are two big power adders.

no dp or tmic at that time.

also in 2006, according to car and driver, 14 flat @ 99mph. other publications have gotten similiar numbers.
 
There's plenty of hope for you Buttons!!

Don't be discouraged here... I'm pretty sure it's just a combo of you need a little practice, a couple of parts, and tweaking your LC and you gotta use FFS. You need to get your 60' times down to 1.9 or 1.8. You need a rear diff mount and rear motor mount so you can launch hard, and not worry about your rear end breaking. You also need to set up a good launch control value. I set mine to 4,200 rpms (on the advice of others), and that works well for me. If you're launching at too low an rpm, you're going to miss out on boost, and that'll hurt your time as well.

I never launched until a couple months ago when I got my RMM and rear diff. I got my 60' down to a 1.89 in 3 launches, and it was my first time launching an awd car (that was on the DH tho, so it doesn't count). I REALLY think you're not using FFS is killing you here. Once I finally got the mounts and set up FFS, it almost shaved my shift times in half! Plus, I would sometimes get that "bah bah bah" hesitation between shifts (not always, but sometimes)... that is completely GONE during FFS. I was doing full throttle lift shifting before, and that adds a lot of time. So with FFS, with just 3 shifts and riding out 4th gear, I'm shaving like .7 seconds or so of what my 1/4 time would have been without FFS.

Also, don't have any crap in your car when you go to the track. Each 100 lbs adds about 0.1 seconds to your 1/4 time. I plan on ditching my spare & jack (~65 lbs), and getting there w/ like less than an 1/8th tank of gas. I'm just gonna add a bit of 100 octane at the track, but not much... so I have about 3/8 tank. That'll add a bit of power, but more importantly be a buffer against KR, esp if it's warm out. Gas weighs like 6 or 7 lbs per gallon, so if you go w/ a 1/4 tank verses a full tank, you're saving about 80lbs or so. So with the ditching the spare, and running on 1/4 tank or a little less, that's 0.15 seconds off your time for free! lol Not a HUGE deal, but all those 10ths add up really fast. I really want you to break into the 13s, and there is NO reason why you shouldn't. We're modded almost identically, and some dudes that go to the track said I SHOULD be able to run low-mid 13s. I'm a rookie launching and shifting, so I'd be happy w/ a 13.5. For low 13's I'm probably gonna have to get my 60' down to like 1.7 or 1.8, but I don't know if that's gonna happen! LOL I bet I can get it down to a 1.8, but 1.7 is pushing it.

Finally, I wouldn't go to the track when it is 90F outside. I'm actually planning on dropping $100 to go on a Weds during the day, as very few people do that, so you can get in a dozen runs if you want (most people pay $20 for a weds or sat night and sit in line to get 2 runs in). Plus, there is no line, so heat soak won't be as much of a problem. Also, there is few people there, so you're less distracted, and can sit at the line as long as you want getting ready to launch. The green light doesn't mean s***.. your time doesn't start until you pass the line, so don't worry about reaction time as it means nothing (for your purposes). I have an fmic, but if I'm at the tack and it's 90F and I'm sitting in line for 1/2 hour, my BATs are going to get way up there as well. Plus, the track itself is usually hot. I really want to go on a cool day... like no hotter than 70. Just my $.08 lol
 
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I got a new set of NGK plugs, corksport intake/TIP, and ETS TMIC on their way to me. going to tweak my Cobb Tune and get my shifter adjusted so i dont miss 2nd gear -- then ill be ready for some 13's dammit :-)

Credit cards must love my cars, every summer i max them out...then pay interest all winter
 
I got a new set of NGK plugs, corksport intake/TIP, and ETS TMIC on their way to me. going to tweak my Cobb Tune and get my shifter adjusted so i dont miss 2nd gear -- then ill be ready for some 13's dammit :-)

Credit cards must love my cars, every summer i max them out...then pay interest all winter

How about trying not to spend more then you have/can aford that way you save on interest and can afford moar parts?
 
i feel like maybe even your clutch might have something to do with the slower times and such, you ground 2nd the two times so that didnt help. but something tells me your clutch is one of the bigger factors here (along with heat sink). put it this way, i had a '03 focus with barely anything done give me an average of 2.1-2.3 60' times when i first tracked the thing, but the next year i was up to 2.5-2.6 with a slower time but same-ish trap speed. no mods were done in the time between but i fully believe its cause the clutch was going on the damn thing.
 
you guys would get a kick out of seeing my license plate. I dumped $7,000 into a 2000 trans am a few years ago and i am still paying on the interest ...

I am at a point in my life where i am starting to put my hobbies/toys 2nd and pay down my debt. i was about $48,000 in debt last year, im down to 32,000 this year. Next year I should be around $20,000.

I have this idea of being debt free and then WORKING LESS HOURS. im sick of working five, ten hour days. but i must do so to pay down the debts i built up.

Yes, I just splurged and dumped about $1400 into my mazdaspeed 6. That could of went a long way to paying down a credit card but in michigan we only get nice weather 3 months a year and i want to do some cruisin before it snows.
 
Right on. you do with your money what you want. i just got outta big debt myself and it feels great. it took the last few years but was totally worth it. now i just buy, when i got money to spend.
 
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