chillinmcmillan
Member
- :
- 2005 Premium White Pearl RSX Type-S
What is the weight on the FMIC?
iON Performance said:FunkyCold5 - the hesitation is due to an overly rich fuel map. When your car becomes heat soaked, this problem becomes more apparent as there's less O2 to combine with the fuel.
If you were to go pedal to the metal from stoplight to stoplight, you'll notice that after each stoplight, your car will become laggier as well as less powerful.
Our stage 1 FMIC kit runs $900US + shipping. (this is the club member discounted price).
Here's a picture of the stock IC vs our stage 1 FMIC:
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Here's a picture of the stage 1 FMIC installed:
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Here are the facts & results:
- Charge temps went from 60C (post I/C on the stock set-up) down to 20C on our stage 1 FMIC.
Stock car baselined: (Before stage 1 FMIC) - boost was 5.5psi peak
(Run #1) 120.6whp peak @ ~6000rpm, 125lb-ft torque @ 4200rpm
(Run #2) 119.4whp peak @ ~6000rpm, 114lb-ft torque @ 4200rpm
(Run #3) 116.2whp peak @ ~6000rpm, 106lb-ft torque @ 4700rpm
After stage 1 FMIC added (w/ stock airbox & K&N panel filter): boost was 5.7psi peak
(runs #1-11 were all higher then #12, we stopped at 12 runs)
(Run #12) 139.3whp peak @ 5800rpm, 146.3lb-ft torque @ 3900rpm.
Baseline Dyno Run:
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After Stage 1 FMIC was installed (12th dyno run showed)
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After an EBC was installed and our 3" cat-back, boost was set to 8.9psi and 192.2whp was made. This was the 12th run as well that set the 192.2whp
MazdaDryvr - Our FMIC kit is designed around the car and gives you the option of replacing the stock MSP radiator w/ the stock p5 radiator. By replacing the stock MSP w/ the stock P5 rad, your car will run cooler. (rad capacity also increases so you have a larger heat sink) So yes it would be beneficial.
Fakhelek said:Why is it that every other dyno I have seen is showing ~150 whp stock? I am also curious about the 5.5psi of boost. I have a stock setup with boost gauge and I show steady boost at ~6 psi with peak at ~6.9. If the FMIC will get me 139whp then I will be losing 10hp with the upgrade.
EDIT: P.S. I personally would (actually did) pick up a manual boost controller first. At $35 it is hard for me to justify $900 for an FMIC. Only way I would do it is if I already had the MBC, the Fuel Cut (or Spark Cut, whatever) Defender to allow boosting over 10psi and forged rods ($720). Under 10psi I woudn't expect gains worth $900 and over 10psi I wouldn't trust our engine internals unless upgraded.
Just my 2 cents.
iON Performance said:[/b] - There's a few guys who have their kits already[/B]
iON Performance said:505zoom - the only reason those guys have their kits first is (1) They're on the same side of the boarder and (2) One of those few are on the Turbo Hi-Tech Performance Magazine Project MSP
Your's should be on it's way to you![]()