So I wrote that i would write a how to for the idler screw but that thing is so sensitive and erratic that if you dont have a wideband dont touch it even if you do dont touch it unless you have a few hour to get it right...
so symptoms
turn screw counter clock wise and you drop idle and become eratic
turn clock wise and increase rpm and heres the surprise feed fuel into car while coasting, this is what i mean you will be in gear and take your foot off the gas pedal your afr should be reading --- but not in this case the car will still be feeding fuel into the car...
so for the last 1hr and half i have been making adjustments so it would not feed fuel into the car while in gear till 1000 rpm Thats how my car ran originally. so my previous throttle positiin reading was 12.1 new position is 11.4
I got a spare thanks, ya the car was pulling a toyota accelerating with out me pushing the pedal its under control now but ill replace it tomorrow. ill post my new finding tomorrow.
well im going to wait on replacing the throttle body need to order the gasket. but i did service and clean the gunk. the car is running like a champ. While i was out I replaced my pcv valve with a millennia one..When i rip the throttle body out ill post pics...
fyi you may want to reset your facory ecu after doing this.
If you think setting your stock throttle body idle is a b****, on my 1.8 swap I run no IACV.
Just a throttle stop that keeps it idling nice when the motor is fully warmed, and a "warm up" switch which raises rpm when manually triggered during warm up so i dont need to apply throttle to keep it running when cold, like on a dirt bike.
I have to redo the idle setup every 10-20 degree change in temp, but when its right, its "mint". and i wouldnt have it any other way :+)
I just lost the AAS screw on my 2003.5. I got the replacement today. Will install in the morning. Any ideas why it came off? if makes this loud sucking sound. Car works ok when on but has ruff idle.