Emanage Blue User Here

[StealthWyvern]

WRX 440's should be high impedance. Our cars run high impedance....if you don't you can cause computer damage. Weird, my correction factor is like .696 or something--and they are RC 440's. I'm pretty sure something is up with your MAF perhaps.

I swapped MAFs with a friend and it still had the issue. We swapped a ton of parts except the IAC which is what I am thinking. Is there a way to clean it?

jspeed, we swapped all sorts of parts off my MSP to see why his car wouldnt start earlier and it turned out to be the FPR that went bad. Its not his MAF or ECU due to swapping in another protege ecu (non speed) and the issue is still on going.


Chris,
Hate to say it but when was the last time you checked your timing? I know we swaped out cam and crank sensers off my car and still had issues starting. Grant it tha was before the new fpr. im sure if you had any air in the fuel system that it would of worked its way out by now.

 

[Jspeed17]

Hmmm....def check timing marks. Also where is the MAF located on his car???

 

[StealthWyvern]

Hmmm....def check timing marks. Also where is the MAF located on his car???

under the hood.... lol really its relocated to the cold pipe

Edit: so is mine

 

[Jspeed17]

OK good. So is mine. So that eliminates all worn coupler and pipe possibilities. He really sounds like he has a friggin vacuum leak!!! Did he spray the intake mani gasket at idle and injector seals??? EGR stuck open???

 

[Flspeed]

Yeah, I check the timing last weekend because I thought the same thing. It was dead on. What crazy is I got home today and let it idle. I lowered the injector factor correct until it was idling with afr at 14.7. Then I starting dropping the fuel map and air map. Now it idles without any map and with the proper injector correction factor. WTF?!?!?! Im giving my car to mythbusters! lol

 

[Jspeed17]

Lol good. With 440 inputted into the inj correction and no adjustments made to any maps, it should pretty much run stock. Now how has it been starting since then?

 

[Flspeed]

Starting issue is still there. When I tap the throttle it goes rich then lean and then recovers. I havent tried to drive it yet. I put new plugs in yesterday and it smoothed the idle out a little bit. Still some kind of issue. ;/

 

[Jspeed17]

Did you have your o2 clamp before the emanage install???
Mine is set to 0.3v by the way...not sure if i told you when you asked...
It seems like either you're getting too much, or not enough fuel on startup

 

[Flspeed]

I agree. Im leaning towards to much fuel. It could be to much fuel from the emanage and the ecu trys to correct it. I have my clamp setup to between .2V and .3V. The ecu should see the lower part of .3V and add fuel. I was looking at my vac lines and noticed that one of the soleniods on the top of the intake was still under vac after being shut down for hours. Are the soleniods normally open?

 

[Flspeed]

Drove it to work this morning. Still same start issue but ran fine out of boost except between shifts. It would go rich and go lean then settle back to 14.7. I think this is considered lean tip.

 

[Jspeed17]

Well thats normal between shifts. Anything out of boost (cruising) should be oscillating between 13.6ish-15.6ish....Lean tip is when you "tip" from vacuum into boost and its lean when boosting for a sec....that is why i have my o2 clamp set to where it switches BEFORE boost.

Starting issue should've been taken care of before you installed the Emanage bro!! I hope you find the problem. It's probably something stupid....lol usually is

As for the solenoids i assume they should be open while not running since they don't have power with key off. Send me a pic of your vacuum line setup on those solenoids if you can

 

[Flspeed]

Give me your email and I will shot a video this weekend of my entire setup.

 

[Flspeed]

What resistance should I see across the purge solenoids? All three

 

[Flspeed]

Ok. here is where im at now. Two of the three solenoids had a 40 ohm resistance and the other showed open. I said screw it and bypass them all. Then I realized the pcv was fluttering. I replace the pcv and damn what a differnce. I could go wot and it would hold between 12.5 and 15.3ish but it melt slow and slugish into boost. Im holding about 7 psi and vac is -11 psi or 20ish inHg. The starting issue is still there. WTF?

 

[Flspeed]

Ok. I think I got it figured out. The bushing grommet thing on the fuel pump had a split in it. I replaced it with a piece of fuel hose because I cant find the grommet around town. It starts if I bump it over first to let the fuel pressure come up and then fires right up. It doesnt run lean anymore and Im running a small fuel map and almost know air fuel map. The pigger issue was a bad pcv and vcts solenoids. The final answer on emanage blue is do your research and yes it works fine, it just has a steeper learning curve. I will keep everyone up to date as I tune it and get the fuel pump gommet thing. Happy Boosting!!!

 

[Jspeed17]

Cool. Now fix your injector correction factor!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Flspeed]

Problems again. I melted a coil pack. Crazy, I never seen this before. I put a new one in and turned down the air adjustment to reduce timing influence but now it wont start because its too lean. I find this hard to believe considering Im running 440's. Any ideas? What is your maf output when your key is in the one position and when you turn it to the cranking position?

 

[Jspeed17]

Lol....i don't even have my ignition coil wires hooked up yet, but i bet it has something to do with having the key on too long without running. I've read a lot about other engine management systems....for example the MPI tuner--it needs a special relay box and wires connected to the fuel pump power to prevent burning up the coils. I don't think it has much to do with the airflow adjustment until you are up in the higer RPM ranges.

You don't have any timing adjustments at or around idle do you??? I'd still like you to send me your map so i can take a look at it. I'll get back to you on my MAF voltages

 

[Flspeed]

I found that my O2 sensor was bad. I replaced the coil and O2 and it got rid of the starting issue as long as I put 30's in the air map. I havent retuned it with the new O2 sensor but I will mail you my tune when I get it a little more tuned.

 

[Jspeed17]

Awesome. That will definitely screw with idling and such. Using stock Callaway manifold??? I find that the factory O2 location burns them up. I've melted 2 or 3 O2's myself