dont understand oil gauge adaptor

540James

Member
:
2007 Trailblazer SS
i have the greddy adaptor, and the elec. oil gauge. yes, ive seen the thread that states you have to dremel off 1/4 or 1/2 inch off the bolt that comes out of the block that holds the oil filter on. but i dont understand why i would have to do this to make it work. id like to know before i do it.
 
opps sorry, i thought this was a forum where you talk about this kind of stuff, oh wait, it is! silly me
 
don't need to cut it... you can replace the oil filter pipe with a shorter one... get one off a 99 miata.... part number is BP4W-10-319... it's about 3/8" to 1/2" shorter than the stock MSP one (E5B6-10-319C is the stock one, but also found on 2000 miatas!) its way better than cutting because the pipe itself is the oil inlet to the engine... and you DON'T want any metal shavings going into the engine!

you need to CAREFULLY remove the nut that holds the oil cooler in place and use that nut as well as one more that you will have to buy in order to change the pipe... if you're not careful, you may damage the o'ring in the oil cooler which means you'll have an oil leak!

the part number for the nut is 9992-22-000.. thread pitch is M20x1.5 if you're a cheap ass and want to find that nut at a fastener store (GOOD LUCK!)

follow my MSP oil cooler how-to for torque specs and oil filter pipe R&R
 
94-98 miata (and MSP) at the top
99 miata in the middle
90-93 miata at the bottom (slightly longer than non-MSP FS-DE)

MazdaBoilfilterpipeextension.jpg
 
Do you happen to have the part numbers and pictures of each item? Definitely very convenient.
 
TheMAN said:
don't need to cut it... you can replace the oil filter pipe with a shorter one... get one off a 99 miata.... part number is BP4W-10-319... it's about 3/8" to 1/2" shorter than the stock MSP one (E5B6-10-319C is the stock one, but also found on 2000 miatas!) its way better than cutting because the pipe itself is the oil inlet to the engine... and you DON'T want any metal shavings going into the engine!

you need to CAREFULLY remove the nut that holds the oil cooler in place and use that nut as well as one more that you will have to buy in order to change the pipe... if you're not careful, you may damage the o'ring in the oil cooler which means you'll have an oil leak!

the part number for the nut is 9992-22-000.. thread pitch is M20x1.5 if you're a cheap ass and want to find that nut at a fastener store (GOOD LUCK!)

follow my MSP oil cooler how-to for torque specs and oil filter pipe R&R

what do you mean the "oil filter pipe" are you talking about the bolt that comes out of the block? because the room that you have to work in there isnt exactly the space of a caddy, i dont know if i want to replace the bolt with a shorter one, i would go the other route and mount the sender in a remote location but the "how to" on that made it sound like a horror story
 
you WILL have to change it because the greddy adapter is not thick enough... getting an oil filter relocation kit may still have the same problem

there's enough room to do what you need to do once you get s*** out of the way
 
there is really only one other way, remove the stock oil pressure gauge, install a 1/8 npt tee, the male end installs into the block, then on the 2 female ends you can install the stock and the aftermarket one

of course thats if yours is 1/8npt, I know the defi one is, I just ordered the tee last night from summitracing so I can post pics late this week once I get it
 
tekkie said:
there is really only one other way, remove the stock oil pressure gauge, install a 1/8 npt tee, the male end installs into the block, then on the 2 female ends you can install the stock and the aftermarket one

of course thats if yours is 1/8npt, I know the defi one is, I just ordered the tee last night from summitracing so I can post pics late this week once I get it


well, FWIW the block is BSPT. I guess if you managed to use NPT for it, with no leaks, it doesn't really make a difference, but i had to go BSPT with mine.

Whether or not you decide to keep the dummy light will make a difference in how hard this is. If you don't keep it, you *could* theoretically just get the BSPT to NPT adapter and screw the aftermarket sender straight into that.... yes, it would be more weight than the stock sender, but most likely not so much that it would cause problems. If you do want to keep the stock dummy light as well though, you WILL have to remote mount them (i attatched mine little sender/adapter assembly to the intake manifold support bracket). Theres a thread somewhere where livelyjay puts up part numbers for all the adapters needed for different scenarios, lemme see if i can find it. If you want more info on this method, i'd be glad to help, i've written up several things for different people looking for help.

EDIT: heres that thread... http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123615506&page=2&highlight=oil+pressure

and if it helps heres some pics of my install (i know its kinda hard to figure out whats what, but i'll throw em up in case you're interested.)

heres a general shot of the whole assembly, mounted on the back of the intake manifold support bracket. You can use the location and orientation of the oil filter to help get a rough idea for comparison on your car...
18010400351.jpg


and heres a shot of sorta where the hose is running...
18010410025.jpg


and now for where it taps into the block (pic is sideways, again, use the oil filter to orientate). This is where you'll find your stock switch with the green wire running to it. (you can see the stock switch on the lower right, with the green wire running to it.... )
18010390364.jpg
 
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