coil packs?

[f1yen]

I have been searching, and have seen many people recommend coil packs for the MSP. But i cant seem to find people that replace the coil packs and then problem solved.

When the car is at operating temp, I have been having some problems while boosting, the car seems to fall on its face. ~7-8psi
It makes it miserable to merge onto the freeway sometimes, It feels like the car is pulling so much timing that I cannot gain speed, im pretty sure my old celica was easier to get onto the freeway.

EDIT: I'll put it this way: can msp's burn rubber in 1st gear? cuz mine won't and I would assume it should be able to.

I know some people will say its heat soak, but in WI it is not hot. With a customMSP SMIC, the temps stay pretty low(i even probed the intercooler last summer).

I believe that the stock coil packs are on the car. I do not have a CEL so i was under the assumption that I would not need to change the coil packs until i get a CEL for them? I checked the coils vs the shop manual, and they seemed fine (resistance wise)....

I have replaced the plugs and made sure they were gapped correctly (.028 -.032) [I have tried this with 1 cooler plugs and the ones that came with the car... no change for either]

Anyone had great success with the new coilpacks?

 

[pbarton14]

No I haven't and I've changed mine twice . Never fixed the issue. Have you ever replaced your o2s and maf?

 

[f1yen]

No i havent, i guess i just dont like throwing parts at it. I know i have talked to you about this before, but the car works real good before its at operating temp... idk baffels my mind, so maybe there was sum breakdown near the coilpacks..... I see that people talk about coilpacks going "bad" is this just when a CEL is thrown or is it something else?

 

[pbarton14]

I have been throwing my money into this car man, take it from me, I've changed and gapped the plugs and changed the coil packs. Nothing fixed.the only sensors that I haven't gotten yet is the maf and the 2nd o2. My take on it is, if the car doesn't use any sensors before it's warmed up and its fast, that means one or more of the sensors are not working properly without triggering a cel

 

[Spiced MSP]

all of these cars will feel fine until they reach operating temp if you are on the stock ECU. The car needs a tune, it's way too rich with the stock tune. The "pulling timing" feeling you are talking about is more than likely hesitation

 

[Jo060]

^^ +1 you described what everyone with a stock tune experiences. It's not anything wrong with your car. Just a bad tune. Run a search and you'll yield hundreds of results of this exact problem. Consider looking into purchasing a SSAFC.

 

[mazdaspeedp]

ya bad tune sucks lol get a haltech

 

[f1yen]

I have been throwing my money into this car man, take it from me, I've changed and gapped the plugs and changed the coil packs. Nothing fixed.the only sensors that I haven't gotten yet is the maf and the 2nd o2. My take on it is, if the car doesn't use any sensors before it's warmed up and its fast, that means one or more of the sensors are not working properly without triggering a cel

well from what i understand about car ecu's, before the car is only using a few sensors before its warmed up. it uses the MAF (only pulling data from long term fuel trim, not STFT) and crank and cam sensors.... And i do not think it uses much more than that?


so this does suck, since i dont have any money right now... i hate waiting for a mod...

 

[hornsfan10609]

I had to wait well over a year to get the SSAFC, and trust me it was COMPLETELY WORTH IT.

I honestly believe most problems people think they have with their MSPs are actually just the stock tune/ECU being itself.

 

[dacquesta1]

Its not just the Msp that has a crappy tune. My 1.8L ecu ran my fp really rich and my fs even richer (expected...lower compression). Mpi tuner solved that

 

[f1yen]

Well i have an update....
To clarify the problem description more i have been really analyzing how it drives. And the car doggy as hell untill 5200 rpm, at which time the car would lurch forward in a fun sprint. (think of like a vtec feel) so I though maybe the VICS is hindering my performance.

Yesterday I unhooked (and capped off) the solenoid for the VICS and tee'd the VICS signal hose along with the normal vac/boost signal hoses. This should have (and did) open the VICS early (in fact any time at WOT or boost) and then I should not get the vtec burst at 5200 rpm.

Took it for a ride, slow and doggy still untill 5200 VROOOOOM lol and it punched up to redline again... (wow) Now I am confused... so It definitely is not the VICS...

When I finally did get past 5200 the rest of the time i was driving, the car pulled real strong, with no noticeable change when i would get past 5200 again. I think this may be because the coilpack was able to get a good charge (field) ???? idk

Anyways I am lost for words as to what this means,
I found this, maybe this is what I am experiencing.....


"Coil pack, it will get progressively worse until it goes. They start showing symptoms at low rpms and go away at high. you'll notice that everyday the rpm that it starts getting better at will move up in the rpm range until you can't move at all. That was my experience with a bad coil pack.
Hope that helps."

written by Geezer000, too bad this may have been going on for the entire time i have had the car...

I will try to post a video for you guys to chuckle at, seriously i had a friend (non automotive) ask if that was from a vtec lol

 

[pbarton14]

I have tried replacing the maf too and i still have no luck with the limited power loss. next im going to try replacing the egr valve because ive heard that an old egr can leak boost into the exhaust. this makes sense because when you give the car high rpms the egr valve sometimes unsticks and seals the boost leak , thus having all your power back. this is just my theory . i have yet to prove it , but i am waiting to buy a new egr pipe and a new egr valve altogether, and i hope that is the fix to this

 

[Sport23]

Have you disconnected the battery and then turned the headlights on for a few minutes to clear the ECU? MSPs have a very bad habit of learning overly rich LTFT. If you clear the ECU's memory and the car feels like new then your LTFTs are too rich (and timing may have been pulled too.)

Don't forget to turn off your headlights before reconnecting the battery!

 

[f1yen]

ok so I took a video, but its crappy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lUcc715XjZ4&feature=channel

WOT pull from 2nd gear. at around 5200 rpm you can hear it change, like i said, my one friend was all confused and thought it may have been a vtec lol
you will only be able to hear a pitch change... but it also pulls much harder when it happens.

Hopefully I can grab some new coils this week.

Just last week I reset the cars ecu, unplug, hold brake for 30 sec, and then also let it sit for a half hr. no luck.
The egr is a different opinion... let me know how it goes.

 

[hornsfan10609]

I would start saving for an AFC. If you haven't replaced the coil packs and all 4 wires/boots yet try it already. Was your e-brake on in the video or is your brake fluid level low?

 

[f1yen]

LOL ya, the abs is not working, to be exacting, i checked the codes, and almost every code for the rear abs is set.
aaaaand I dont recall seeing extra sensors on the rear brakes when i replaced the pads.... so I may be missing my rear abs sensors! (braindead

 

[hornsfan10609]

The ABS sensors have their own warning light.

 

[f1yen]

hmmm, I have both the ABS light and the Brake light lit.

I was under the assumption that when the brake light is lit by itself it is from( e-brake, low fluid etc)
If ABS light is lit, Brake light will also automatically be lit... from( abs problems)

I will have to check into that.

[edit b/c i didn't feel the need to bump the post up]
I replaced the coil packs (had some problems; aka returned 2 of the 2 for replacements lol) but the car's original packs were definitely deteriorated.
The new packs makes the car come alive. and drives much better! I would say the butt dyno can not tell the difference to the 9psi with the shotty coils, with the good coils at 6-7 psi.

This is because when I got the car it was running ~9 psi, and now with new wastegate and coils, it runs about the same.