blown ksports

[J_Naoto]

one of my ksport coilovers blew. :mad: i've only had them for about a year, but the warranty expired last month. i called them and they said i could get a new shock for $100. has this happened to anyone else? maybe i should ditch these and get some tiens...

 

[Blake]

ouchy...tiens it is

 

[CnoTataymo]

Damn, blown already, Which one blew, the front or the rear ones? And you're car isn't really slammed either. I wanted to get these but I don't know anymore. But $100 for a new one isn't bad. A new Tokico HP (blue) one is like around $140.

 

[J_Naoto]

the front of my car is pretty slammed, but it happened on the rear drivers side

 

[GhostMercury]

tien

 

[Akaveli]

tisk tisk.

 

[djarkitek]

the rears are notorious for going out a little early....not matter how slammed or not. 100 dollars isnt too bad for a replacement though...but if you have the 1200-1500 to shell out on tiens, why not go then...

 

[shane02pro5]

I can look at them and tell they were not adjusted correctly. I did this with my Nex coilovers. With the collars threaded so far up the tube you are at the upper limits of the strut travel. This causes the piston to bind and damage the cylinder when you hit a bump. They should be adjusted to where when the strut is fully compressed you are just above the bump stops.

 

[Pirana]

Well at least you give me hope...because $100, its not bad...I had mine for 2 years now...(2thumbs)

 

[djarkitek]

Well at least you give me hope...because $100, its not bad...I had mine for 2 years now...(2thumbs)

i think i'm almost at 5 months...lol..let's hope my updated version does the trick...(2thumbs)

 

[L8R]

I blew all FOUR! Have fun

Pieces of s***. I wanted to b**** to them at SEMA.

 

[J_Naoto]

I can look at them and tell they were not adjusted correctly. I did this with my Nex coilovers. With the collars threaded so far up the tube you are at the upper limits of the strut travel. This causes the piston to bind and damage the cylinder when you hit a bump. They should be adjusted to where when the strut is fully compressed you are just above the bump stops.

well i ordered a new shock and see how long the rest last. so you're saying i should have the bottom part as far down as it can go and decompress the spring?

 

[MSP2003.5_Nick]

Thats the way I have mine, if you feel the bottom of the strut in the front its flush with the bottom and in the back its up maybe an inch from flush. That way thy are a lot more stable and theres no flex in the strut I've got mine so slammed that if you jack the car up the springs are completely free to move. Car sits right on top of the tires tuckin a bit.

Best way to save your struts is to just slow down for bumps and dont be crazy, if you're consistantly slamming big bumps and bottoming out the struts of course they will blow. Gotta be carefull how you adjust the coil though, if you do it wrong your tires will hit the top of the fender before it ever bottoms the strut. It's love hate with the huge slam of steel on steel, but its better than a tire through the fender and thats what they are designed to do. In that case I'd much rather have a blown strut then a ****** up fender

 

[shane02pro5]

The stroke of the piston is designed to be in a certain area inside the cylinder. The further out of the bore the less guide the shaft has to keep it centered. Any height adjustment would be done by threading up or down into the part of the strut that attaches to the wheel hubs. To keep the stroke the same.

 

[red95_240sx]

how bout if i have my stroke pretty close to th bottom. im hitting bump stops on big dippers in the road. maybe one or two a day. i tried to adjust from te botom while i had some wrenches, but i cudnt get te entire cyliner to budge. what is the black spanner at the very bottom of the fronts used for, is it the reason why they wudnt move?

 

[shane02pro5]

To give yourself a bit more clearance from the bumpstop you want to jack up the corner and remove the wheel. Loosen the bottom collar cinched against the orange part that attaches to the wheel hub. Then measure the gap and spin the whole threaded tube part down another 1/4-1/2" by turning the upper collars, then tighten the bottom collar back down. Then loosen the upper collars and thread them up the same distance you did the threaded tube.

This shifts the position of the strut and extends the piston stroke out a bit. You don't want it out too far above the bump stops. Thats where they bind and eventually blow!

 

[red95_240sx]

yeah thats exaclty what i need to do, but its like siezed and htose lil spanner wrenches dont allot much froce to work with. is it doing just as much damage down there at the bottom on the bumpstops. the rears where like tighten veeerrryyy tight agianst the strut like they tried to shoot the damn piston out the cyliner.

the problem is i cudnt get the whole cylinder to move, so i didnt bother to adjust it that way.

 

[shane02pro5]

I use a rubber mallot with the spanner wrenches to loosen and lock them down. Also wd40, pb blaster or deep creep let it penetrate for a day and try to work it back and forth and not just force it in one direction.

 

[red95_240sx]

yea. am i doing any damage by hitting the stops?

 

[shane02pro5]

If your slamming them like on the freeway with alot of weight overloaded with people alot of stress being absorbed everywhere. If your hitting them it's not allowing for any of your suspension to do it's job and something will break soon! When you tried to adjust them was the car jacked up and the wheel off?