WTB: ETS or any upgraded top mount

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if I may just add my 2cents in here with regards to the plate...I think the plate is necessary because of two reasons. One it helps keep the incoming air directed to the intercooler, and two, I think it helps absorb some of the heat from the engine and turbo, instead of the intercooler absorbing all of the heat. ...just my thoughts, nothing scientifically proven. (cheers)

theoretically, I agree with you, but I respectfully counter with the following:
1. I have run it both ways and could not tell a difference.
2. The plate is bolted to the intercooler. Any heat absorbed by the plate would instantly be transfered to the intercooler.
3. It isn't worth the aggravation of the firewall whacking for the 1 extra horsepower that you may or may not be getting without it.
4. It looks way cooler without the goofy plate!
 
Chippy actually has first dibs but if he doesnt fall through then its still up fs!
Anyway, when I first installed the tmic I had some serious banging issues through 1st and 2nd gear shifts. After I installed the mm insert, it was better but still there. So I trimmed the back portion of the shroud a lil and while still retaining full contact with the hood duct, I haven''t had any banging or rubbing issues since. Though trimmed, I would still strongly recommend a mm or atleast a mm insert if you don't have one. . .its one of the best mods in my opinion anyway ( :

Soooorry, after all this thread jacking I forgot that it was double speeds thread. He has first dibs, then chippy. Again...my bad!
 
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They took a while to design these tmics and I highly doubt they added a plate to inconvenience people haha. I think the plate is highly necessary to keep cold outside air making direct contact with the ic.
 
Chippy actually has first dibs but if he doesnt fall through then its still up fs!
Anyway, when I first installed the tmic I had some serious banging issues through 1st and 2nd gear shifts. After I installed the mm insert, it was better but still there. So I trimmed the back portion of the shroud a lil and while still retaining full contact with the hood duct, I haven''t had any banging or rubbing issues since. Though trimmed, I would still strongly recommend a mm or atleast a mm insert if you don't have one. . .its one of the best mods in my opinion anyway ( :

Soooorry, after all this thread jacking I forgot that it was double speeds thread. He has first dibs, then chippy. Again...my bad!

hey .. you PM'ed me saying i got first dibs... so who's really got first dibs?
 
theoretically, I agree with you, but I respectfully counter with the following:
1. I have run it both ways and could not tell a difference.
2. The plate is bolted to the intercooler. Any heat absorbed by the plate would instantly be transfered to the intercooler.
3. It isn't worth the aggravation of the firewall whacking for the 1 extra horsepower that you may or may not be getting without it.
4. It looks way cooler without the goofy plate!

I think the 3.25 vs. 3.5 whole argument is nonsense to be honest with you...whether you have the plate or not, your butt dyno won't know the difference, and even when you do a real dyno numbers will probably be +/- 3-5 hp. I think the only benefit of a 3.5 is if you plan on upgrading the turbo. until then either is fine really...
 
ets tmic

There is no hp difference between the 3.25 and 3.5, to be honest when they offered it in the 3 inch that would be suitable enough for most daily driving and modest upgrading. The 3.5 was really only necessary for upgraded turbo or higher boost levels and it is not gonna be anymore efficient than the 3 or 3.25. But at the point of turbo ugrading i believe the fmic would then be your best route because of tuning issues. For my goals for the car the tmic was the best route and it was money well spent!!!!!!!!!!!!Yah it does get heatsoak when at idle or at complete stop for long time, but once you get going it cools down right away. It may not look as good as the su tmic but its just as efficient.

Some people have had issues with the 3.5 with it banging into the firewall or banging on the air duct on the hood. Personally i have had no issues with or w/out aftermarket motormount. Theres always a way to fix the banging, just dont use the shroud, or shave it.
 
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lol @ someone saying the "upgraded turbo needs the 3.5" and everyone jumping on the bandwagon... do you guys really think that the .25" difference is going to make or break you if you upgrade the turbo? If you look inside the intercooler you'll see why the ETS works better... the plates are HUGE in comparison to the stocker. they are also way freer flowing. If you want a top mount, get whatever one floats your boat. They probably all perform exactly the same... which is better than the stock piece o junk.

just my 2 cents.
 
ets tmic

True, it doesnt matter what size, they are ALL efficient, but i was just stating that the 3.5 wasnt really necessary, to be honest it was just a little overkill. The 3.25 or even the 3inch would be just as good with turbo upgrade or higher boost.
 
I've posted about this before, that the ETS isn't hitting the firewall, it's the ait vent ducting that sticks down, but even then there is about 1-inch gap and the engine doesnt rock that much.

It;s actually hitting the inside of the hood air ducting the part just inder the hood. It's the welded corners of the tmic that are hitting it, not the shroud, but the pointed edge on the corner of the intercooler.

I have hit them 2 times on my hood ducting, from loosing traction and then getting it back again and the engine jumps at that time. If you open the hood and look on the inside of the hood (the hole portion where the tmic fits inside) I was able to see 2 abrasion dimple/scuff marks at the point where those intercooler welded corners are at. And even saw some black dirt on those corners of the intercooler itself. Led me to believe thats what was actually hitting the issue with hitting.

I have the SU MM as well. And once again this only happened once and it was after loosing traction (going over a pothole) and then catching traction after that and it jumped the engine a bit.
 
I've posted about this before, that the ETS isn't hitting the firewall, it's the ait vent ducting that sticks down, but even then there is about 1-inch gap and the engine doesnt rock that much.

It;s actually hitting the inside of the hood air ducting the part just inder the hood. It's the welded corners of the tmic that are hitting it, not the shroud, but the pointed edge on the corner of the intercooler.

I have hit them 2 times on my hood ducting, from loosing traction and then getting it back again and the engine jumps at that time. If you open the hood and look on the inside of the hood (the hole portion where the tmic fits inside) I was able to see 2 abrasion dimple/scuff marks at the point where those intercooler welded corners are at. And even saw some black dirt on those corners of the intercooler itself. Led me to believe thats what was actually hitting the issue with hitting.

I have the SU MM as well. And once again this only happened once and it was after loosing traction (going over a pothole) and then catching traction after that and it jumped the engine a bit.
Shall I photograph the damage to the plastic trim on my firewall?
 
Shall I photograph the damage to the plastic trim on my firewall?

hell yes please do (2thumbs) This way people can see it's the trim for the air vents and not the actual firewall itself like people seem to think.

Mine hits the inside of the hood ducting, so I have some dimples on that piece and scuff marks from the 2 times it hit. I'll take pics of those and post them so everyone can see that as well.

We'll be able to eliminate the confusion people seem to have about this thing hitting the firewall itself :)
 
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people think it's hitting the firewall itself? lol why would they think that? there are way too many things for it to hit before it gets there.
 
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